O-Ring Floating of the Forend

[quickdtoo]

Many have asked where and how to do the O-ring floating of the forend. The O-ring is placed on the forend barrel stud before installing the forend on the barrel. A little experimenting with size can be advantageous, but generally a 9/16"OD x 3/8"ID x 3/32" or 1/8" thick O-ring from your local hardware store will work. Some have used different materials like grommets, too. Nothing is written in stone, shoot the rifle first before trying it, it may not need any modifications. Some shooters also have good luck by using business cards placed in the forend to create a pressure point, I've used refrigerator magnet material with good luck on a mannlicher forend and many other forends, a 1" square added near the tip of the forend in the barrel channel secured with a little RTV silicone to hold it in place in the forend works. Each rifle is an individual, so what works on one, may not on another. Experiment with screw torque also, some work best tight, some just snug, consistency is important, so what ever works needs to be repeated each time the screw is installed.

Depending on your forend and barrel contour, you may need to sand the forend to completely float, or leave space around the barrel so the only contact it's making with the forend it at the stud, use sandpaper wrapped around an appropriate size dowel to do the sanding.

Tim

[cwlongshot]

I just want to add a couple things to this excellent accurizing tip.

I have found that 5/16'' Neoprene flat washers work better than the plain "O" ring. (Available @ H.Depot and Lowes and likely other better stocked suppliers.) They offer a bit larger surface area, yet keep contact limited to the barrel stud. Some of my guns use two while others use one. Run a folded paper dollar bill up and down between the barrel and forend. Any snugness or contact should be relieved with a barrel bedding tool or properly sized dowel wrapped in sand paper. Only contact should be @ the barrel stud & its base.

 I have also found that most handis (All two piece stocks for that matter) shoot better with LESS pressure from the forarm on the frame. I releave mine with a 1/4" round METAL file @ the back of the mounting hole in the forend. I like the slow removal of material, as very little material is actually removed to accomplish what I am describing. The forend should mount with little to no resistance. Follow this with the forend screw snugged, not torqued as tight as possible.

 I hope this helps,
 CW

[Russ Jerome]

I have found that 5/16'' Neoprene flat washers work better than the plain "O" ring. (Available @ H.Depot and Lowes and likely other better stocked suppliers.) They offer a bit larger surface area, yet keep contact limited to the barrel stud.

If you find one with a large enough OD it can be trimmed to snugly stay in
the same spot without moving in the forened (see red Neoprene):


The Neoprene can be polished down with power tools without fear of distortion.