Author Topic: 260 Remington!! (Read 2173 times)

quickdtoo · « **on:** April 16, 2007, 05:12:40 PM »

I've been scratching my head for a couple weeks now trying to figure out a use for the 300WSM barrel, checked with Wayne York about barrel stubbing, but he doesn't do em, too labor intensive. But he will TIG/MIG weld an underliug on to a barrel blank for me, he's confident that it would work well or he wouldn't do it.

I ordered a Shilen Match Grade 6.5mm #7S Contour(bull barrel) 1: 8" Twist 28" Chrome Moly in the White barrel from Midway for him to work with, it's one of the few barrels that has enough chamber length to match a factory barrel that doesn't cost $300. It will be a while before I get the barrel, it's on 90+ day B/O at Midway and it will be a back burner project when Wayne gets it, so it will probably be a long time before I see it, but that's ok, good things are worth waiting for!!

I was gonna do a 6.5-284, but the .500" case head would probably put me in the same boat as the 300WSM, so I opted for the 260.

Tim

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=496100

Mac11700 · « **Reply #1 on:** April 16, 2007, 05:17:38 PM »

Good choice on caliber

Mac

skifastchad · « **Reply #2 on:** April 16, 2007, 05:49:34 PM »

When you say "same boat" are you referring to the rim being smaller than the case head by so much that an extractor won't work properly?

quickdtoo · « **Reply #3 on:** April 16, 2007, 05:54:42 PM »

No, the ejector works fine with a rebated rim. The problem is too much bolt thrust due to the large case head at .555", the SB2 frame is too flexible, with any load over 2950fps, there'd be a gap tween frame and barrel after the shot due to frame flex.

Tim

10ga. · « **Reply #4 on:** April 16, 2007, 06:03:33 PM »

Interesting quote from Wikipedia:

"Because 6.5 mm (.264") bullets are known for their relatively high ballistic coefficients, the .260 Remington has seen success in rifle competition. It is capable of duplicating the trajectory of the .300 Winchester Magnum while generating significantly lower recoil."

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.260_Remington

handirifle · « **Reply #5 on:** April 16, 2007, 06:25:42 PM »

Tim
Why not just ream out and re-chamber a 223 barrel? I like the 260 idea, let us know how this turns out. That seems like a much better idea than the stubbing.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #6 on:** April 16, 2007, 06:32:50 PM »

Cuz I want a longer, heavier bull barrel and a rebore will cost about the same money for just a 24" barrel.

The Shilen barrel is .890" at the muzzle, it's not a hunting rifle, the barrel alone weighs over 7lbs!!

Tim

bang_off · « **Reply #7 on:** April 16, 2007, 07:49:13 PM »

Quick, the real question is why the 260 over the 6.5x55 Swede?

Go on, you know you want to!

quickdtoo · « **Reply #8 on:** April 16, 2007, 08:34:47 PM »

The 260 just has a little better velocity so it will shoot a bit flatter, it should be closer matched to the max capabilities of the SB2 frame. I would have liked to have gone for the 6.5-284, but I think it would have been a little too much. The 260 isn't the last word either, I've considered the 6.5-06 also, still might go with it, I'm not committed to the .260 until Wayne gets started on it, just a 6.5mm something!! I even considered the 6.5 Gibbs, but dies and a reamer would be a problem. $:-\$

Tim

mt3030 · « **Reply #9 on:** April 16, 2007, 09:39:42 PM »

My uncle was a real fan of the 6.5, both in the Swede and -06. When he passed, I had a choice between one of his 6.5-06s or his favorite Swede. I opted for the Swede because he put it together himself. It is such a pleasure to shoot, I plan on using it for antelope this year rather then my Ultra 25-06. Good luck with your project.

eskimo36 · « **Reply #10 on:** April 17, 2007, 03:40:27 AM »

Tim,
Is Mr. York making the lug or using the one off of the 300? If you can or will share, what is the breakdown on costs for this project?

PartsMan · « **Reply #11 on:** April 17, 2007, 04:26:03 AM »

A 260 handi will be sweet.
You will to keep us updated.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #12 on:** April 17, 2007, 05:13:21 AM »

I think he's gonna plasma cut the lug off the 300WSM barrel, cost for me will likely be $150-$200 after all is said and done. He'll have to shorten and turn the breech end of the barrel down to 1.1", cut the ejector notch and weld the lug and forend hanger on, retemper the barrel I suppose, cut the chamber, crown and blue the barrel.

Tim

eskimo36 · « **Reply #13 on:** April 17, 2007, 05:41:56 AM »

That is a very reasonable price for the work involved....

myarmor · « **Reply #14 on:** April 17, 2007, 06:33:37 AM »

Little late to the party but nice choice Tim, and a great choice in barrel

What kind of stock set ya putting on this one? Special project, needs some special wood

-Aaron

quickdtoo · « **Reply #15 on:** April 17, 2007, 06:37:26 AM »

I haven't thought that far ahead yet Aaron, but a GunstocksInc laminated set would probably be the best. I'll have to give it some thought.

Tim

eskimo36 · « **Reply #16 on:** April 17, 2007, 06:43:06 AM »

gunstocks inc makes a classic style stock with a cheek piece for a handi that is not shown on there website. They have sold them on ebay in the past. It is the best looking stock for a modern caliber in a handi...even in a relatively low grade walnut.

myarmor · « **Reply #17 on:** April 17, 2007, 06:44:52 AM »

With a barrel that long and heavy you should get away with some forearm pressure. I know it would be a pain to shoot with being so supported under the receiver. You might have to strap the buttstock down so the whole rifle doesn't fall forward

Sounds like an awesome project though, and LOTTT's of room and ideas to play with.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #18 on:** April 17, 2007, 06:54:50 AM »

I think if I fully bed the forend, it should shoot fine rested normally, at least that will by my goal.

I'll have to check those classic stocks out, thanks.

Tim

quickdtoo · « **Reply #19 on:** May 05, 2007, 06:58:31 PM »

Switched horses, after more research, I decided to go with the 6.5x55 Swede instead. The barrel has been shipped from Midway, I got 100 Lapua brass already, Wayne said he doesn't have the reamer, but he would get one, dunno if he means he'll buy one or rent one, but it's a go!

Tim

EVOC ONE · « **Reply #20 on:** May 06, 2007, 01:00:04 AM »

Very good choice.

Looking forward to the results.

canon6 · « **Reply #21 on:** May 06, 2007, 03:46:28 AM »

Tim,the 6.5 Swede was one of my favorite calibers.What grain bullet are you going to use?? I had great luck on game with the 120 NBT at @2750 and the 140 can be pushed past 2700fps, and with the high bc's is a flat shooter. All together a very good choice Doug

McLernon · « **Reply #22 on:** May 06, 2007, 04:33:38 AM »

Hi Tim:

Just curious, how does the weld procedure that Wayne is going to use account for the high equivalent carbon content? Normally, 4140 Cr-Mo steel is considered to be non- weldable.

Mc

safetysheriff · « **Reply #23 on:** May 06, 2007, 05:20:49 AM »

Tim'

the reputation for accuracy of the 'Swede', and its great sectional densities, coupled with low working pressures make for an interesting choice. i think you'll be very happy with the capabilities of the cartridge. i think you'll be happy with the excellent barrel life that i think you'll get with the 'Swede'.

BUT, it is interesting to see you start out with a .260 Rem' as your choice and then switch to a somewhat milder cartridge. not many people seem to consider 'going milder' in the shooting fraternity today.

let us know how she shoots,

ss'

quickdtoo · « **Reply #24 on:** May 06, 2007, 05:43:46 AM »

I'll be shooting the 140gr A-Max moly, with it's .618 BC, it should be a great long range bullet, if it shoots really good at 300yds, I might even make a trip to Tri-County or Douglas Ridge to shoot at 600yd.

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=210521

If H&R can weld the underlugs on, I don't see why Wayne can't, he sees no problem with it. CVA Bergara barrels are 4140 and the underlugs are welded on.

The Swede loaded to its full potential exceeds the 260 Rem, SAAMI data is held to a minimum due to the older Swede actions, not unlike 45-70 factory ammo is only available at trapdoor levels to protect older designs.

Tim

Fred M · « **Reply #25 on:** May 06, 2007, 08:42:59 AM »

Tim
I would stay with the 260, it is the better choice. The long range accuracy
potential is indisputable.

Hardly any modern rifles are chambered for the 6.5x55, why go back to an inferior design?

quickdtoo · « **Reply #26 on:** May 06, 2007, 11:50:14 AM »

Because it's an ejector underlug, since the .308 is notorious for sticking brass, and the .260 is based on the .308, I figured the Swede would be a better choice given pressures and velocities.

The 6.5 has 3grs more water capacity, 57gr compared to 54gr for the 260.

Tim

http://ammoguide.com/cgi-bin/aicompare.cgi?sn=BWeDaXecUj&loadset=30&xxglbl=1

Swede on the left, compared to a 308 case.

mitchell · « **Reply #27 on:** May 06, 2007, 12:13:47 PM »

wait wait wait just a min ya its really cool your making a 6.5x55 i've been wanting to do the same thing for a long time but when did this 300 wsm come in to play

ho much is wayne charging for this?? i need my 6mmbr handi before i get back from Iraq

quickdtoo · « **Reply #28 on:** May 06, 2007, 12:23:35 PM »

Mitch, the 300WSM barrel was an experiment started by a member in Alaska, it didn't work out for him, shot the underliug loose. He sold the barrel to Mac for the cost of shipping, I bought it from Mac. Improved the underlug, tested a couple different loads hoping to achieve 30-06 AI velocities, but that didn't happen, got 2950-3000fps with 150gr CT Balliistic Silvertips and frame flex created a frame barrel gap at each shot. Underlug never shot loose tho!!

Don't know exactly how much it will cost, probably about $200 + the barrel cost, after it's all said and done.

Tim

http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,110568.msg1098335003.html#msg1098335003

safetysheriff · « **Reply #29 on:** May 07, 2007, 07:41:12 AM »

Quote from: McLernon on May 06, 2007, 04:33:38 AM

Hi Tim:

Just curious, how does the weld procedure that Wayne is going to use account for the high equivalent carbon content? Normally, 4140 Cr-Mo steel is considered to be non- weldable.

Mc

Mc',

take a look at www.principalmetals.com and by looking at the properties of 4140 (alloy steel) you can see how this steel is so adaptable to making rifle barrels and knife blades (etc) with good weldability being a very key characteristic of this metal. if we look at the character of this steel after it has been annealed we can see how it readily adapts to barrel-making.

it will, however, be adviseable to heat-treat the barrel after welding on it, i'd expect. but the barrel maker or the steel supplier can best answer that re: welding methods/heat 'sinking'/ and so on.

take care,

ss'