Author Topic: Progress on the Target model Dixie setup (more progress) (Read 6149 times)

handirifle · « **on:** August 15, 2007, 06:06:00 PM »

Well, each week I get a few hours here and there to work on the scope mounts for my Target model. Progress is being made. It's no wonder these things are so expensive, LOTS of hours, but am nearing completion.

At current time, I still do not have a windage adjustment, except moving the front dovetail, and that will only be to sight in. For actual wind compensation, it will have to be "kentucky" windage.

Let me warn you, it's not pretty right now. Have brazed on some parts and the colors are all over the chart, but when it's done it will all most likely be flat black.

There are no pics this time of the front cause it's like it was before, just a little lower.

The first pic is the rear mount by itself, set in a vice where most of the work gets done.

Next is the same bracket with scope temporarily set in place, and positioned at bottom of adjustment range.

Next with scope at top of adjustment range, approx 1 1/2" travel. I have no idea how many MOA that works out to be.

Next is to show some of the work and I'll let you imagine how many hours this is taking. There are three items in the pic, one is a 5" lag bolt, and the other two are by-products of said bolt. The top adjustment knob was made from the cut and drilled hex head of the lag bolt. It has the 8X 32 thread rod inserted into it, that will serve as the main adjustment screw.

The side screw that the adjustment screw threads through was made by placing the now smooth (with head cut off) shank of the lag bolt, into the drillpress. I then used a file, with drill press running, to smooth off the threads and reduce the diameter of the shank now exposed, down to .250 so I could use the die and cut the 1/4 X 20 threads in it and screw it into the scope base as pictured. I did it so there is a sharp shoulder on the screw so it keeps the adjustment screw from being drawn into the bracket too far. It might be unneccessary, but that was how I wanted it.

handirifle · « **Reply #1 on:** August 15, 2007, 06:07:32 PM »

Oh, I forgot to mention, there will be lock nuts top and bottom the keep the adjustment screw in place. The screw itself will be shortened when everything else is in place.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #2 on:** August 15, 2007, 06:13:42 PM »

Lookin good!

Wouldn't it have been easier to use a piece of ¼"-20 all-thread and brazed a nut to the end for a knob?

Tim

handirifle · « **Reply #3 on:** August 15, 2007, 06:15:59 PM »

Yea, but who ever said I was doing this the eay way?

Besides, that really wasn't the look I wanted. I still need to make the knob for the other side that will lock it in place once adjusted.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #4 on:** August 15, 2007, 06:20:58 PM »

Wouldn't a fine thread be a better choice, ¼-28? (Now that ya got it done!!!

)

Tim

handirifle · « **Reply #5 on:** August 15, 2007, 06:27:34 PM »

Probably, but it's really not important on that side, it is on the other but I haven't crossed THAT bridge yet. The other side is threaded 1/4 X 20 also but I may have a work around on that.

wcf3030 · « **Reply #6 on:** August 16, 2007, 07:58:41 AM »

Nice can't wait to see it finished.

aulrich · « **Reply #7 on:** August 16, 2007, 09:31:20 AM »

Keep it up should be an interesting build.

You know the guys on RFC like to call their tricked out 10/22's "ultimates", I think we need to coin our own term for modified handi's.

handirifle · « **Reply #8 on:** August 16, 2007, 10:23:35 AM »

I didn't put it in the first post, but here is a pic with the plain jane stocks on it.

I'm going to refinish and REALLY TRY to make an acceptable looking end cap, sort of a pweter-looking end cap on the forend, and re-taper the forend as well. Something like this, IF I can pull it off.

That was why I bought this stock, that plus I wanted a recoil pad and pistol grip.

Question for those that have refinished these stocks. Does the wood often have the same shade after it's stripped? I want to strip it, maybe make a small change or two and stain in walnut stain. I might even try to checker it.

Woodbutcher · « **Reply #9 on:** August 16, 2007, 02:55:14 PM »

Handirifle, my but you do nice work!! I'm watching this one real close! Woodbutcher

handirifle · « **Reply #10 on:** August 16, 2007, 03:31:12 PM »

WB
Thanks but you are WAY too kind

. This is a major learning project, it's becoming a labor of love.

I already have plans for a newer better version of both the front and rear scope ring portions. The Gen II version will have windage adjustment, but I just want to get it back to gether and shoot the darn thing soon. All these guns and never a trip to the range.

bluebayou · « **Reply #11 on:** August 16, 2007, 07:30:17 PM »

My wood was very light and reddish when stripped, almost like laminated cedar. I used Min Wax Red Mahogany 225 and the spray on satin exterior poly. The stain is an oil based one.

handirifle · « **Reply #12 on:** August 17, 2007, 04:30:04 AM »

Did those match before you stripped them?

bluebayou · « **Reply #13 on:** August 17, 2007, 05:47:20 AM »

Yes. They were purchased together and had a dark stain from NEF. The poly that NEF used was flaking off and kept getting on my hands and cheek so I stripped the wood.

I used sandpaper to strip this one. I later used a citrus chemical stripper on a Remington and a methylene chloride stripper on an SKS. Both of these resulted in open grain or maybe the open grain was there and the epoxy based finish that Remington used covered that up. Just some food for thought.

The NEF wood was very lightly finished so it was easy to strip. Yours might be newer or better finished. I haven't read of anyone having the flaking finish lately.

handirifle · « **Reply #14 on:** August 18, 2007, 08:21:44 PM »

Yes will find out when I dive into it.

handirifle · « **Reply #15 on:** August 21, 2007, 08:02:19 PM »

Well as the title says I'm very close now. In fact, I can take it out shooting. Pics in a minute.

I can tell you now, I'm not happy with the front mount, and have appreciated the suggestions in the past, and will welcome more. It still needs to fit into the dovetail for the front sight, since I want no new holes in the barrel.

I think it's too far to the left of center, and moving it to the right makes it too loose. Have thought of drilling and tapping the front bracket for a set screw to lock it in position in the dovetail, how strong do you think that would be? Besides that I'm starting to think it's just plain ugly.

The rear has turned out pretty good. Not perfect, but workable and strong.

This shot shows the major components. You can see how the elevation is adjusted, except I am facing from the front for the pic.

Next the locking knob to secure the rear once elevation is set.

And finally, a shot of the unit mounted, excuse the messy bench.

I'm gonna take it to the range just to see how much it helps and how well it holds up the the 38-55 recoil, but I am keeping the gears going for a new front mount, hopefully a windage adjustable one.

georgeld · « **Reply #16 on:** August 21, 2007, 08:31:07 PM »

Reminds me of a dream I heard about once.
Goodness that's long.

What year vintage was something like that invented and used?

Very interesting. Best of luck with it.

Can you file/polish the front base to make it look better, then blue it?
OR will the void the vintage design?

George

quickdtoo · « **Reply #17 on:** August 21, 2007, 08:36:00 PM »

I gotta give you credit Handi, you've really put some time and effort into this project, I'd hate to see you scrap it and start all over again.

thx for the update,

Tim

handirifle · « **Reply #18 on:** August 22, 2007, 05:29:45 AM »

OK an answer and a question.
George, those scope were out in the early 1800, that's about all I know for sure.

Quick, I won't scrap the whole thing, but I really don't like the front, AND it looks even worse than it really is, in the pic.

That piece is aluminum and it will not take blue, it will take paint but Haven't tried that yet. Will wait till I get to final version.

Now my question for Quick.

I started a new thread cause I didn't think you'd want this one too long. How the heck did you merge them? Threw me for a loop there, I thought "what the heck happened to my post?"

Thought I'd lost it till I checked this one ona hunch. Ya scared me!

quickdtoo · « **Reply #19 on:** August 22, 2007, 01:45:39 PM »

Merge is just one of the options the software allows, it's nice to keep a special topic like this one all together so the train of thought and all your work can be appreciated by everyone down the road.

You can black the aluminum mount, Birchwood Casey makes aluminum black, I have some, it works, there's a link to it in the FAQs in the Cheap Scope Rail thread.

Keep on keepin on, you're on a roll!!

Tim

handirifle · « **Reply #20 on:** August 22, 2007, 05:37:00 PM »

Quote from: quickdtoo on August 22, 2007, 01:45:39 PM

Merge is just one of the options the software allows, it's nice to keep a special topic like this one all together so the train of thought and all your work can be appreciated by everyone down the road.

You can black the aluminum mount, Birchwood Casey makes aluminum black, I have some, it works, there's a link to it in the FAQs in the Cheap Scope Rail thread.

Keep on keepin on, you're on a roll!!

Tim

Thanks for the tip on aluminum blacking. Will pick up some. I think I have a mental pic of the (new) front mount, adjustable and all

.

handirifle · « **Reply #21 on:** August 31, 2007, 01:17:33 PM »

OK finally got this beast out to the range today. I will post some pics later tonight. Loads it favors are still the GOEX cartridge and the Chey Cast 245gr bullets. I only fired it at 50yds because the front (as I suspected) is too far out of adjustment for any longer shots, at least with consistancy.

The scope really helps me a lot, and today's session was a BIG education. I need to get the rear down lower, and the front more to the right. At the lowest settings, it printed about 12" right and 15" high

. Yep JUST a little off!

It was still fun though.

I cut the 335gr Snovers down a bit, they came out at 285gr. These did NOT keyhole, but were not grouped very well either. More work on them later.

Just thought I'd drop a quick line to let you'all know what was up.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #22 on:** August 31, 2007, 01:22:25 PM »

Thanks for the update, was wondering how it was going.

Tim

handirifle · « **Reply #23 on:** August 31, 2007, 07:47:50 PM »

OK here's a few pics.
First one is of the rifle on the bench.

Then a view of the range from the back of the rifle. The base of the hill is 100yds, the steel plates are 150, 200 and 250.

For now, I'll just post the one three shot group with the 245gr loads.

Like I said before I'm pleased with the load, but there is more work to do on the mounts. The rear can come down another 1/4" I think, but I really have to make something better for the front, in order to get it to a mechanical zero.

McLernon · « **Reply #24 on:** September 01, 2007, 08:29:53 AM »

Hi Handirifle:

Good work. Your project is very ambitious(By my standards) and I congratulate you on the the work done so far. I'll bet that by the time you finish this project you will have at least a dozen better ways to do it in your mind. That is what happens when you do something new. Please keep us posted!!!!!!!! This is a great thread and many are watching closely. Including me.

Mc

handirifle · « **Reply #25 on:** September 01, 2007, 11:59:37 AM »

Quote from: McLernon on September 01, 2007, 08:29:53 AM

Hi Handirifle:

Good work. Your project is very ambitious(By my standards) and I congratulate you on the the work done so far. I'll bet that by the time you finish this project you will have at least a dozen better ways to do it in your mind. That is what happens when you do something new. Please keep us posted!!!!!!!! This is a great thread and many are watching closely. Including me.

Mc

Thanks for the kind words, and the any different ideas have been coming all along. I'm actually in the mental process of trying to make one of the ideas suggested to me earlier on, to use a set of scope rings that are windage adjustable, just to help mecahnical zero.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #26 on:** September 01, 2007, 12:05:54 PM »

Too bad the Burris Signature ring inserts wouldn't work to allow the scope to pivot on both ends to allow windage and elevation adjustments without tweaking the scope tube, but to have them loose enough to allow movement, they probably wouldn't stay zeroed. Just a thought.

Tim

trotterlg · « **Reply #27 on:** September 01, 2007, 01:24:55 PM »

How about a high Burris signature ring on the front, machine a Dovetail in the bottom of it, drill a set screw down from the inside, that would allow it to slide back and forth for windage adjustment. For the rear turn the ring on it's side, drill a hole through the base, tap it for elevation adjustment and then tap in a locking knob screw from the side. The rear support would then be a single vertical slotted bar on one side with an adjusting knob on top and lock screw on the side. Larry

handirifle · « **Reply #28 on:** September 01, 2007, 03:16:25 PM »

Quick, I have thought of that several times, and frankly the leather in the front ring seems to work real well, but other materials may work as well but I am running a list of them through my mind. A semi soft plastic seems to sit top of the list.
You have to remember this scope is 3/4" dia and the leather fills the bill nicely for the 7/8" rings off the rimfire scope. If a 1" scope ring is used, it will require a thicker more stable material.

Larry, that really sounds like a good, simple idea, but for now the rear mount works very well for me. I do need to lower it some but that's no problem. My biggest issue is the front.
I think I understand your front, but the set screw drilled through the base, I assume once the windage is set you remove the scope and tighten it down? Otherwise I guess I a little confused about it. More details appreciated.

I think I may go to a rear windage adjustment for actual windage changes at the range, but still need more flex in the front to set the mechanical zero.

In my head I visualize a ring with the base of the ring split and turned 90 deg to the ring, with the ring lined up with the scope. The rotated bottom of the ring would sit on a cross mounted Weaver base, without the groove in it. With this setup I could either loosen the base mount and slide it to adjust, or use a variation of your front design for a screw adjustment.

What I MAY end up doing is cutting the base off a high mount, and attaching a homemade 7/8" ring made from 1/2" steel, set as mentioned above.

Better ideas always appreciated.

trotterlg · « **Reply #29 on:** September 01, 2007, 04:10:10 PM »

How about a dovetail on a short piece of weaver base and use a Millett angle loc windage adjustable ring on the front?