Do any of you know how to adjust the Remington X Mark Pro trigger?

[DalesCarpentry]

I just bought a Remington 700 SPS 243 and it comes with this new Remington X Mark Pro trigger. The trigger is very nice it had no creep at all and breaks like glass but the pull weight is way to heavy.  Do any of you know how to adjust it? Can I do it myself? If I take the 2 hex head screws out of the bottom of the stock will that end up separating the action from the stock? If so would I need a tourk wrench to put it back together? I think it is just one screw that needs backed off but I am unsure how to remove the trigger part of the rifle. If anyone out there knows please walk me through it step by step.    Thanks Dale

[gunnut69]

They adjust as did the older M700 triggers but I've not done one as yet, just have seen the diagrams. Generally the 2 screws on the underside of the M700 rifle will separate the barreled action from the stock. There are a few concerns when re-assembling some models. Perhaps a book would be a good start. The NRA take down books can be had at their web site and contain the needed info. If take down is a problem, perhaps you would be wise to take it to a pro and let him take care of it. The charge is usually very minimal. If your up for it I can walk you thru the job but caution is the key word.

[DalesCarpentry]

They adjust as did the older M700 triggers but I've not done one as yet, just have seen the diagrams. Generally the 2 screws on the underside of the M700 rifle will separate the barreled action from the stock. There are a few concerns when re-assembling some models. Perhaps a book would be a good start. The NRA take down books can be had at their web site and contain the needed info. If take down is a problem, perhaps you would be wise to take it to a pro and let him take care of it. The charge is usually very minimal. If your up for it I can walk you thru the job but caution is the key word.

Gunnut if you could walk me through it that would be great. Have you heard of the saying. Give a man a fish he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will eat for a life time. This is something I should learn. Thanks Dale

[gunnut69]

Taking the rifle down is the place to start. The trigger adjustment thread has a pretty good listing for the old style trigger but the parts about the connector can be disregarded as the new trigger doesn't have a connector. The first step in the field strip as always is to be sure the weapon is unloaded..check twice!! Then depress the bolt release tab which is located inside the trigger guard just in front of the trigger itself. This small square tab is pressed toward the bolt and the bolt is opened and drawn to the rear. It should slide out easily. The bolt release tab sometimes sticks in a depressed mode. Simply hook it with a finger nail after the bolt has been removed and pull it downward. To dis-assemble the rifle the 2 screws located on the bottom metal are removed. One is located just behind the trigger guard, the other at the other end of the bottom metal in front of the floor plate hinge. Be careful here as Remington sometimes has small washers that fit between the bottom metal and the stock surrounding the screws. These need to be replaced where they were found, and failure to do so CAN affect the way the rifle shoots. With the screws removed the barreled action can be removed from the stock. The bottom metal can also be removed but they sometimes require a little persuasion, be gently. The assembly is mostly aluminum and can be damaged..
The diagram shown in the link found in the trigger adjusting string found at the top of this forum is the best I've found. The screws shown in this diagram are for the old style trigger but this is a great aid in your endeavor. Also I would seriously advise you to down load the manual from Remington's website. Be aware that adjusting a trigger is a serious undertaking. If you make a mistake and fail to catch it a very dangerous situation can result. Accidental discharges take lives every year. Always exercise extreme caution. I'll look for a diagram of the new trigger assembly. The cleaning and maintenance instructions for both are the same, so give it a good cleaning and we'll proceed with adjusting the trigger a bit later.

[Graybeard]

I STRONGLY recommend you adjust ONLY the ONE SCREW that adjusts pull weight and tha screw ONLY. I have yet to own a Remington 700 that needed more work than that. When you start messing with the other two as most instructions direct that is when you get into trouble and cause dangerous conditions as alluded to.

If it needs more than the pull weight adjusted I suggest letting a professional do it.

[NONYA]

Thats all i have ever had to do as well,I also used a dab of super glue on the head of the screw to make sure it didnt back out on its own after I moved it.

[gunnut69]

There are only 3 adjustments we're concerned with as triggers go. The pull weight is the most obvious and is the one GB is referring to. It simply presses a spring against the trigger to return it to it's reset condition after being pulled and released. This MUST happen so we don't want to lighten too much. Usually in a hunting rifle 2 3/4 pounds is as low as I will take a rifle. The trigger stop adjusts the over travel of the trigger. That is the movement of the trigger after the sear releases the striker. It is very important and quite easy to adjust. To adjust start with the bolt in the rifle and striker cocked. turn the screw in until the striker won't fall. Back out the trigger 1/4 to 1/3 turn. Try to cock the rifle and see if the striker falls. I usually go out in 1/4 turn increments until the striker falls then give it a bit more. This ensures the striker will fall when I pull the trigger, always. The last adjustment is the one to avoid. It is called the creep and is really just the amount the trigger moves before the sear drops. It is in reality the amount of sear engagement and is critical. Set too low and accidental discharges can happen.. Set to heavy and it lessens the usability of the rifle and it's intrinsic accuracy. If you feel the trigger is gritty, after cleaning with spray brake cleaner and re-lubing then take it to a smith.. This ones NOT for the beginner!! I disagree with GB in that most folks can adjust the pull weight and the over travel, it's the sear engagement that can get deadly and should be avoided. The trigger adjustment screws should indeed be adjusted. I don't know about super glue.. I recommend finger nail polish and prefer a nice bright red, easy to see!! Also its easy to remove when and if needed..

[DalesCarpentry]

Could I put a dab of lock tite on it.  Thanks alot guys Dale

[bluebayou]

Ditto on the fingernail polish.  It is easier to see if it is intact.  I would not use Loctite as you would have to put it on the threads to get a good seal.  I might be wrong, but can't see how it would be trustworthy to hold the top of the screw like enamel nail polish. 

I highly recommend using zippo lighter fluid to clean out a trigger as it leaves a film behind and shoots a hard, thin stream to flush crap out.

[gunnut69]

Lighter fluid is OK but brake cleaner leaves the metal completely lubricant free and a bit of graphite is about all you need. Lube attracts and holds crud and unburned(partially burned) powder granules. This makes a nasty abrasive mess. Graphite of other dry lubes catch nothing and are really slick. Remington recommends RemOil and they have coated the internals of the trigger assembly with a slick hard material that is rust resistant!! But lighter fluid works well because so little lube is left!!