Ok, just a little heads up for those of you who might be considering this. Others of you will undoubtedly be shaking your heads saying 'Oh yeah, that's easy to do!'. I prefer a shorter length of pull, about 13 1/2" on a scoped gun and closer to 13" on my little .45 colt carbine and my topper 30-30. I just received one of the old style synthetic mc stocks from Petemi. Giving it a close look over I decided that shortening it to 13 1/2" lop would be no problem. The screw holes for the pad go into bosses that continue into the stock allowing it to be shortened some without problems. Well I cut the stock 5/8" which would make it perfect (after removing the sling swivel stud) but then I needed to take just a little more off on the grinder to true it ending up with 3/4" off. (I always want to get it down with one cut, usually ending up with a stock just a little shorter than I intended) You can't just push it through the table saw and keep everything square. So I then I drilled the screw holes deeper (no problem) and thinned the boss on the back of the pad to fit back into the stock. Again, no problem. Only problem was when I removed material from the toe of the pad to match back up to the stock. When I brought it back to the same angle as the stock, I exposed a bit of the backing plate through the rubber at the very bottom. It's only a very small amount, and only a cosmetic issue so no problem. So if you decide you would like to shorten your own, stop at 5/8" inch, or make sure you taper the toe up from the tip of it to the stock, don't take it down to where it matches the angle of the stock quite all the way. Had I stayed at my intended 13 1/2" I would not have written this post and would have been totally ignorant of how close I came with it. As it is I have a 13 3/8" lop, which is fine, and a tiny hole in the rubber at the toe. Oh, you have to reposition the sling swivel stud as the base pad screw runs into the hole. Might have missed that too, ha ha. 44 Man