Author Topic: High pressure stubbing project (Read 2048 times)

trotterlg · « **on:** February 29, 2008, 03:30:57 PM »

Due to some technical anomonly (not with me), I get to stay at home for a while longer, so I started a 17 Remington Fireball stub project. I got a 17 Cal barrel at a gun show last weekend, so I used the .410 barrel from the Versa Pack rifle for this project. I bored the .410 to .800 inch through the chamber area and cut a sholder on the stub. This last week I tapered the barrel, straight taper from .920 to .500 at the muzzel, it will finish at 18 1/2 inches long. I think .800 is about as large as I feed good about boring the stub, that leaves enough metal for the underlug to stick to and enough chamber thickness for a .223 sized cartridge I think. I ordered up a 17 Remington Fireball reamer today, I just could not see spending 30% of the cost of a reamer to rent one. I will thread the breach end of the stub and use the inside collar method of mounting the barrel, it seems to be the easiest way to go, and has worked well the last three barrels I have done. I was thinking of doing a 17 Remington but I don't thik it would burn all that powder in a 18 inch barrel, so I went with the 17 Fireball. Larry

MSP Ret · « **Reply #1 on:** February 29, 2008, 03:40:38 PM »

Boy do I wish I had your talents and knowledge Larry, at least I can vicariously follow your exploits through your great posts and pictures...Thanks....<><....

trotterlg · « **Reply #2 on:** February 29, 2008, 03:44:29 PM »

I almost built a 45 ACP barrel, but I thought it may have made you sad.

Larry

krod47nw · « **Reply #3 on:** February 29, 2008, 03:53:02 PM »

Larry,
I believe you are correct about the 17 Rem. I once had a model 7 remington rifle in 17 Rem caliber. I think it had a 20" barrel. It was terribly inaccurate. I believe it was due to the short barrel. needless to say, I didn't keep it long. A friend had a 700 with a 22 or 24 inch, that was a tack driver. Please keep the pictures coming. Everyone here really looks forward to watching your progress on these projects.

Kevin

skifastchad · « **Reply #4 on:** February 29, 2008, 04:48:02 PM »

I'll take it!

This is just for future reference when you sell this barrel on the classifieds some day. I can say I was the first person to respond.

handirifle · « **Reply #5 on:** February 29, 2008, 05:08:23 PM »

Larry
Just wondering why you limited the barrel length ot 18"? Why not start with a longer blank? Was this just laying around?

trotterlg · « **Reply #6 on:** February 29, 2008, 05:42:44 PM »

The blank was a new Cleark (sp?) 20 inch bull barrel for a 77-22, 4140 steel, but only 20 inches long, cost me $40.00 out the door at a gun show, so the price drove the length. Larry

Busta · « **Reply #7 on:** February 29, 2008, 06:39:01 PM »

Looks good Larry. I think you may be talking about a Bo Clerke barrel? What is the rifling twist rate?

handirifle · « **Reply #8 on:** February 29, 2008, 06:45:51 PM »

Quote from: trotterlg on February 29, 2008, 05:42:44 PM

The blank was a new Cleark (sp?) 20 inch bull barrel for a 77-22, 4140 steel, but only 20 inches long, cost me $40.00 out the door at a gun show, so the price drove the length. Larry

That's as good as any reason I can think of. Let us know. I mentioned before about threading a barrel completely into the receiver and using a Savage type nut. Is this barrel dia small enough for that type of work?

trotterlg · « **Reply #9 on:** February 29, 2008, 06:57:04 PM »

The barrel is a 1 in 9 twist, standard for the 17 HMR's. It is easier to cut a sholder on the barrel and then thread the breach end of the blank, bore the breach end of the stub about .100 over the blank breach size and make a nut that goes inside the breach of the stub and is threaded onto the barrel. I will post some pictures of this part. It avoids haveing to cut internal threads in th stub, (the expensive part) and you only have to cut external threads on the barrel and make a nut/sleeve which I use some of a 12 gauge shotgun barrel for. Pictures later. Larry

LaOtto222 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 01, 2008, 01:09:10 AM »

I think this has been discussed before about barrel thickness. The T/C barrels are ~.825" in diameter from breech to end. They handle the 222 family of cartridges with no problems.

PHATINJUN · « **Reply #11 on:** March 01, 2008, 01:24:35 AM »

Ya never know Chad it worked once

Kurt

McLernon · « **Reply #12 on:** March 01, 2008, 09:47:18 AM »

Hi trotter:

I really think this stubbing 'stuff' is very 'intawesting'. You do good work.

There is an optimal ratio of inside diameter to outside diameter so that each component is stressed to the same/similar level. If you do any more of these and want me to calculate these ratios for you I'd be glad to do it for you.

Regards

Mc

trotterlg · « **Reply #13 on:** March 01, 2008, 12:12:20 PM »

What I would be interested in knowing is at what thickness does the stub start loosing signaficant strength, and what the required chamber wall thickness is for different diameters and pressures of cartridges. Larry

McLernon · « **Reply #14 on:** March 01, 2008, 02:15:26 PM »

Hi Larry:

If you like, send me a table of calibers of interest along with max cartridge diameter and the max pressure(psi) and I'll see what I can do. Have you considered shrink fitting the stub onto the barrel? This will help even out stress and help avoid permanent set of the barrel chamber on firing.

I have MatchCad and a Finite Element program that I can use and I would enjoy making a contribution to your projects.

Mc

trotterlg · « **Reply #15 on:** March 01, 2008, 04:45:00 PM »

Pictures of the three parts. left, barrel stub with the counter bore for the sleeve/nut. Center, the sleeve/nut with excess material to get a wrench on for installing it. Right the threaded barrel breach end. Second picture is the thing partly assembled. Larry

handirifle · « **Reply #16 on:** March 01, 2008, 06:50:51 PM »

Thanks Larry, NOW I fully understand how you're doing this. Nice work.

JerryKo · « **Reply #17 on:** March 02, 2008, 01:52:40 AM »

Larry,

Real nice jobs you do. Great reading and pics too!

Jerry

Hammerspur · « **Reply #18 on:** March 02, 2008, 02:06:23 AM »

Quote from: handirifle on March 01, 2008, 06:50:51 PM

Thanks Larry, NOW I fully understand how you're doing this.

Same here.
Been following these projects but I was having trouble getting the "sleeve/nut" concept.

Good pics, nice work!

Steve

Tennessee.Traveler · « **Reply #19 on:** March 02, 2008, 02:15:25 AM »

Larry,

You are getting slick with that lathe! Not to mention your close up camera skills! Great work! If I am following this thing correctly, you are going to make another Barrel nut to thread onto the little shoulder you first cut on the muzzle end of the stub? That would lock the barrel insert to the stub. The outside surface of this second nut could then be a level extension to the stub and provide a longer area to mount your scope. When this step is complete, do you then cut your "nut wrench" off flush with the rear of the stub?

Dick

trotterlg · « **Reply #20 on:** March 02, 2008, 07:03:43 AM »

This is about as far as I can go until I get the chamber reamer. I will leave the muzzel unfinished so I have something to grab with the chuck without messing up the good part of the barrel. Larry

McLernon · « **Reply #21 on:** March 02, 2008, 07:14:17 AM »

Nice slender barrel profile.

Mc

quickdtoo · « **Reply #22 on:** March 02, 2008, 07:20:18 AM »

Very nice work Larry!!

Tim

trotterlg · « **Reply #23 on:** March 02, 2008, 07:26:12 AM »

Right now it weighs 5 1/4 pounds, so I may be able to keep it under 6 pounds when I trim the barrel and find a light scope. Larry

JerryKo · « **Reply #24 on:** March 02, 2008, 01:52:35 AM »

Cant wait to see final result.

What finish ya going for?

Jerry

trotterlg · « **Reply #25 on:** March 02, 2008, 06:56:26 AM »

Just could not stand leaving the muzzel unfinished, so I trimmed it off last night. When I assembled the whole thing I coated all the internal stub parts including the threads with JB weld and then screwed it together. I only had about .001 clearance on the stub to barrel, but that is now filled 100% with JB weld. I also drilled the stub at the front and drove a pin throught the barrel and stub, so this thing is never going to move any. I will parkerize it, that is the only finish proper for a rifle that I can do. Larry

JerryKo · « **Reply #26 on:** March 02, 2008, 06:59:25 AM »

Awesome, I like that finish. Well done again.

Jerry

MSP Ret · « **Reply #27 on:** March 02, 2008, 07:32:23 AM »

I can attest to the fact that Larry's Parkerizing is top notch. Also Larry, I would be proud if you made up a .45 ACP barrel at some point. Then mine in the making will not be alone in the world. Everyone likes and needs to have a friend to relate to, even a .45 ACP Handi barrel. Barrel brothers (or cousins) on opposite coasts....<><....

AKbuilder · « **Reply #28 on:** March 02, 2008, 08:40:29 AM »

MSP Ret,
Sorry to change the subject of the thread, if you know where I can get a .45 cal rifle barrel cheap I am game for a .45 ACP Handi. I want one for myself, but if you like mine I guess maybe we could see one for you.

I know a .45 ACP isn't the subject of this thread but someone else brought it up first.

Thanks,
Paul

canon6 · « **Reply #29 on:** March 02, 2008, 08:43:50 AM »

Let me second what MSP Ret said the parkerizing on the one I go from Larry is way above top notch .I am a very happy camper Doug