Another project, target stand

[handirifle]

Well my grandaughter (5) wanted me to make her a "store" so I used what I had on hand, and mostly it was some scrap plywood and three of my target stands.  They were getting ratty anyway.  Here "store" has some interesting wallpaper .

So, since my old ones were gone, it was time to make new.

The old ones weretwo parts, the base and the target holder.  The base was made of 2, parallel 3X3's, with 2X2's going across the tops, in the center, about an inch apart.  The target holders were 4', 1X2's with 1X2 cross braces and cardboard stapled on them to hold the targets.  I just laid the base on the ground and stuck the target holder in it.  The only problem was storage, the base and holder were too big to keep together.

So a re-design was called for,

I made a new base, of 2X3s, parallel, but the 2X2s are at each end now.  The target holder is now lag bolted to the sides of the base.  The target holder uprights, are two pieces, instead of the old one piece design.  The reason is the new target holder folds down onto the base for storage.  The two piece base now folds down flat for storage and carrying.

I'll have pics and more info tomorrow, when it's daylight.

This thing will fold down to approximately 28" X 36" X 4".  I have a handle that will be mounted to one side and make it real easy to carry.

Sorry for no pics tonite, but had to watch Survivor and eat some ice cream and strawberries.  A man has to have priorities, you know.

[Cookiemann]

I know about those priorities   Also, the target stand sounds good, too.we usually use an old pallet for a target stand when we are shooting out at my buddys place. 

cookiemann

[handirifle]

I don't have a space of MINE that I can shoot on.  There are some spots I go to, besides the ranges, that have nothing to put a target on, so I must carry my own.  I even use my home made ones at the commercial ranges.

Here's some pics, although not totally complete, you'll get the idea.  The folding design makes it VERY portable and it's very strong.

This pic is when it's fully assembled, minus the cardboard and targets.  In this pic you can see the white bars that serve as the verticle braces.  They have been changed somewhat since this pic.  You can also see the additional bolts in the verticle boards that keep the folding part together.  I'll most likely, put in different ones, and will use the "T" nuts that lay flush with the boards, mostly for cosemetics, but also to make it one less thing to lose.
The square target area, is about 26" square.  The front and rear 2X2 cross bars can be used as hold downs by placing sand bags, or similar across them in high wind conditions.  Yes, the winds do blow HARD here sometimes.



This one shows it as the stand is being folded down for storage.



This is when the stand is folded flat.  The white bars are the braces for the verticle part of the stand.  They will fold inside the rest of the stand when completed, they were not comlplete in this pic.



I have a hard plastic handle that will be mounted on the side of one of the 3X3's to carry it with.  The whole thing weighs about 8lbs., maybe 10.

This pic shows some of the notches I put in the base as a recess for the bolts that hold it together.  The notches allow it to fold flatter.




I'll probably use some nylon straps to keep it all together for carry.  There, you have it.  Hope you like it and hope someone else can make use of the design.

[handirifle]

By the way, the weather WAS as nice as the sky indicated.  About 78 deg and clear and calm all day.  Makes you want to forget about the loonies that run the state.

[quickdtoo]

Nice work!! Here's a PVC target stand that I found.

Tim

Materials needed(Home Depot):

2- 1" PVC Elbows(.44 each)
2- 1"x1"x1" PVC Ts(.56 each)
2- 1"x1/2"x1" PVC Ts(.93 each)
1- 1/2" SC40 PVC Conduit joint 10' (1.09 each)
2- 1" SC40 PVC Conduit joints 10' (2.30 each)
1- Box of 100 #8x1/2" round head sheet metal screws(2.87 each bx)
1- 4" PVC Drain pipe 10' (7.82 each)
1- 35" wide 140 ft roll of contractors paper(9.97 each) (in the paint section)
1- 1x6 fence picket (cheap)
2- Paper clamps(had them on hand, have no idea what they cost)

Cut 2 1" conduits 37-1/4" long
Cut 1 1" conduit 37" long
Cut 1 1/2" conduit 37-1/8" long
Cut 4 1" conduits 10-12" long
Cut 2 1" conduits 2-1/8" long
Cut 1 4" PVC piece 36-3/4" long

37-1/4" 1" pieces are the sides
37 1" is top
37-1/8" is the paper roll axle
4-10" pieces are the feet
2-1/8" piece are just connections from the 1x1/2x1 tees to connect the feet Ts

Assemble all PVC, Square, drill pilot holes slightly smaller than #8 screw at every joint(3 per Tee), screw a screw in every joint hole, cut a slit all the way down the 4" 36-3/4 pipe, insert paper roll and while inserting pull tab of paper through slit and slide roll into pipe, unscrew one side of 1/2" axle and pull from joint, slide paper roll/4" pipe onto axle, reinsert axle in T, replace screw into axle, Drill 3/8" hole in one side of clamp, drill 1/8" hole in other side of clamp, remove one clamp arm on the small hole side, level clamp on top 2" back from elbow, mark through big hole and little hole onto the pipe, drill small pilot hole at marks, insert screw through 3/8 hole and screw to top pipe, cut fence picket 36-7/8"

Do not glue anything in case something breaks, you can just replace one piece instead of the whole thing.

[handirifle]

Well the handle is on, the rear brace is complete.  I also replaced the funky bolts that hold the foldable uprights together.  I took a 1/8" dia steel rod, and bent it into a shap that goes through both uprights, keeping them inline, and it also is bent around the uprights, and clips onto the bolt that holds the uprights together.  this keeps the rear braces in place.

I added my cardboard, and now I need to fasten a set of hold down straps to ekkp it all together during transport.

[PanaDP]

Out of curiosity, why didn't you just make the uprights so they would accommodate a couple of pieces of steel rod that stick into the ground? The base seems overly complicated and more weight to carry, as well.

[handirifle]

Out of curiosity, why didn't you just make the uprights so they would accommodate a couple of pieces of steel rod that stick into the ground? The base seems overly complicated and more weight to carry, as well.

Good question, and a fair one.  One big reason is storage in the garage.  For years, I used these bases with the 2x2's that are now on the ends, in the middle of the main legs.  I then stuck the upright section into those.  They worked very well, except, it's a lot to carry downwind, and when the wind is blowing (nearly 90% of the time here) it's like carrying a sail downrange.

I carry this as one unit, and with a handle.

In addition, when transporting the old setup or one like you suggested, I had to make sure something heavy was sitting on it in the back of the truck or else it (the upright) would fly out of the truck, and I don't like crap like that inside, which is why I have a truck bed.  The one you suggest is very much like what I used to have, except mine was all wood.

The present unit is one piece, and weighs no more than the previous setup I had.  I do not want to use metal, cause I've hit uprights before and would rather the bullet pass through an easily replaceable 1X2 instead.

I can carry out a hammer and stakes, if I desired to, one at each end, but most of the time it's not needed.   I've decided that even IF I want the hammer and stakes idea, it, too, will all be attached.  I like having it in one easily carried unit.  Nothing to lose or forget, and I have forgotten parts.  This one unit is more than enough weight to stay in the truck bed, but no heavier than carrying a rifle would be.

In order to have a base big enough to stand up to the wind it becomes awkward to carry in two piece form, not so now.

[oneshotonekill]

Nice looking target stand, good work getting it all to fold up nice and compact.  For the past 8-10 years I have been using high density foam archery targets as my target holder for rifles and pistols.  I buy one of the cheap (store brand) type targets that are 2-3inches thick and 20-24 inches wide.  They set up with 2 steel rods in a couple seconds, weigh a couple pounds, and can take several thousand rounds of centerfire ammo.  The foam is amazing and almost seals itself after a bullet passes through.  Even high velocity rapid expanding varmit ammo doesn't do any damage, maybe the target is not thick enough to see the true expansion of the bullet, or the foam is just that good??  Either way for the $$ they are great target holders.  I stumbled across the idea after I shot the center out of one with my bow and broadheads and instead of throwing it away or replacing the core I stapled a target on it to see how well it would hold up to a rifle.  I now have 3 of these targets that have seen thousands of rounds and are still in good shape.  No cardboard to replace, no stand to set up, just staple or tack your target on and shoot.

[handirifle]

oneshot
That's a cool idea.  Most places here, the ground is like cement, and you literally need a hammer to pound something into the ground.  Either that or the wind will blow it over.

Sounds like a nice cheap holder.  Wish I could get by so easy.

[Siskiyou]

Over the years I have built numerous wooden target stands, I have simpified the process.  I have two four foot lengths of 7/16 rebar.  I drive them into the ground and then wire either a 6’X2’ frame to them.  I then can put a cardboard face and three or four targets on board.

My second stand is two 6-foot lengths of 3/8 rebar which a wire a large piece of cardboard to hold targets.

When I head out to shoot I have tool box with staple gun, staples, tacks, and wire in it.  I also have some flagging to put up to judge the wind.  I also have a sledgehammer with a short hand to drive the rebar into the ground.  At one time I used metal fence post, but the rebar is easier to drive into the ground.

Ugly, simple, and it works.

[handirifle]

I still like to keep mine more portable, so I can move it from 25 to 50 to 100 or 500 if I want.

[JerryKo]

Sure we all have different ideas.   Yours seems great for what you intend to use it for.  I use inch and half, or is it inch and a quarter, PVC.  I hammer rather than glue the elbows and tees together so when I shoot thru one I just replace that one section.  I prefer a certain size only because I have ready access to pre cut cardboard "lids " that I use for a backing.  I can get two 8 1/2 by 14" sheets of paper onit or one in the center .  I can also use different length legs if I'm pistol shooting and want to shoot "man" height targets center mass.  I generally hammer one pointed concrete-form stake into the ground and slip the PVC leg over it.  I havent had it blow over yet, but havent been out in more than 25 mph wind gusts.  I have also used extra  Tees as feet and put 18" lengths of PVC for support.  It easily converts into just a few managable pieces that I keep in the back cargo area of my XP.  I screw the backing to the PVC with self tapping hex heads, and they come out easily by hand to replace either the shot up backer or PVC member.  Cost is rather low.  Only problem is when I do hit a member that section will shatter and need replaced pronto usless the backer is still pretty new.  I have used the spare pieces  that I use for additional legs as the replacements.  Keeping the members all the same size or only two different sizes makes field repairs simple.

My Club uses large rubber converyor belt material, and it is always bowed or full of staples.  I use thumb tacks and cannot force them thru it so came up with my target stand.  I have been very happy with it so far.

Nice craftsmanship on yours by the way.  And love that sky.

Just my 2 cents,

Jerry

I just remembered, It holds up well to shotgun shot very well.  At least every thing I have shot 25yds and out.  The pellets mostly glance off and dimple the  PVC.

[oneshotonekill]

oneshot
That's a cool idea.  Most places here, the ground is like cement, and you literally need a hammer to pound something into the ground.  Either that or the wind will blow it over.

Sounds like a nice cheap holder.  Wish I could get by so easy.

Those targets I use work pretty good on hard or frozen ground.  They are easier to blow over if the rods are braced on the surface and not into the soil but unless it is windy they work alright.

[handirifle]

This is getting interesting.  There's so many different way to get the same job done, and it seems like we're all after the same main goal.  Hold the target, as still and as cheap as possible. .

I'm looking forward to real life experience with mine.  I've wanted a one piece unit for a long time, got it now.

I thought about PVC, but the shatter issue can be a problem, but they are light and cheap.