Author Topic: Stevens 200 Horrible Stock-Help me refinish (Read 6530 times)

Minnesota1 · « **on:** November 03, 2008, 11:45:47 AM »

As you know the Stevens stocks aren't the best looking. I just picked a 22-250 that I'll be using for predator/varmit hunting. I'd like to paint it or something to spruce it up. I don't want to paint the metal just the stock. If anyone could let me know how they did theirs and if they have pictures I'd appreciate it. Also, let me know what you used if you can remember. I can't bake anything because my oven isn't big enough. I do not really want to spend too much money because it is a cheap gun but I might pick up some type of sprayer if someone can let me know where I can find a bargain based decent one for painting stocks. Also, if anyone has a good final coat that would help out if you use cheaper paint or if anyone has any tips I would appreciate it.

Thanks,

Bob

LaOtto222 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 04, 2008, 03:31:07 AM »

I used some 60 grit sand paper to sand out all the parting lines and the rough area around the false grip panels I also sanded out the end of the fore end and on top of the stock. It was line free and even through out the stock. After I had them all evened out, I used 120 grit paper to smooth it out a little more and went over the whole surface with it to rough it up just a little. I took the stock off the action and removed the butt plate before sanding and painting. I masked off the emblem on the grip with plastic electricians tape. I then used Krylon spray paint. They have a special formula for plastic in a variety of colors. I put on some where around 4-5 coats. It dries fairly fast, needing around 30 minutes between coats. I then let it dry for 1 week before putting it back together. The paint while fast drying, takes a week to be fully set when you put on several coats. If you push it, it can chip off. I purchased a SS trigger guard for mine (can get them in blued too), so that you can tighten down the rear action screw with out worrying about splitting it.

Here is one I did in black

the jigger · « **Reply #2 on:** November 05, 2008, 06:39:58 AM »

La Otto is spot-on. I did mine the same way he did with fewer coats(only two). I used flat black. I am really pleased with the ease and results.
GOOD LUCK and GOOD SHOOTING!!

pdog06 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 05, 2008, 02:34:27 PM »

I'm in the process of doing mine right now. In addition to painting it, I also bedded the action and recoil lug and also stiffened the forearm so it wont hit the barrel. I just put the last coat of paint on it, then I'm putting on 2 coats of satin clear.

Here's what I did so far:

First I opened up the barrel channel to get the stock farther away from the barrel, and also cut notches down the bottom of the channel to make a place for me to install a pc of steel square 1/4" stock for rigidity.

Next I bedded in the pc of steel using Devcon epoxy. It's a 2 part mix that fully cures in 1-2 hours, but only gives you about 5-6 minutes to work with it so you gotta be fast. The stuff I used dried clear, but it didnt matter cause I was gonna paint it anyway.

With the forearm done I turned to the bedding of the action and recoil lug. I noticed that my front pillar was sunk down in the stock and my action was not making full contact with it, so I sanded it down to the pillar, removed some plastic around the recoil lug area, and then bedded it with the same Devcon. This is really tricky cause if you dont put a release agent on the action it will weld itself to the stock, which aint good

. I used LPS spray as my release agent, which works good. Here is the action setting up in the stock. After about 2 hours it was done.

Next I cleaned everything up and sanded the stock to rough up the plastic. I then applied 1 coat of Rustoleum indoor/outdoor primer, then 2 coats of Krylon Fusion green camo paint( Krylon fusion is made for plastics and sticks very good. I recommend it highly). After that I applied 2 coats of Rustoleum "making it stone" texture paint( it is like a splatter paint the makes it virtually slip free).

It looks blue in the pic due to the flash, but it is really an OD green color with black and white splatter.

Thats it so far. After I clear it I will take some pics in the daylight so you can see the real color, and also a pic of it all back together. All of the paint and supplies I got from my hardware store, but Walmart sells it also.

Good luck on your project.
Mike

R.W.Dale · « **Reply #4 on:** November 07, 2008, 01:57:36 AM »

Like the others I sanded down all the flash marks and used krylon fusion. But I then put a fine flat black splatter effect all over the stock.

Internally I took a C&H mercury recoil supressor and JB welded it inside the buttstock, I then filled the remaining empty space with spray foam.

The bbl channel was also opened up to accommodate a magnum contour 35 whelen barrel

pdog06 · « **Reply #5 on:** November 07, 2008, 04:57:10 AM »

Got mine done and all back together last night. Here's some pics.

Skunk · « **Reply #6 on:** November 07, 2008, 09:04:20 AM »

Nice job on that Pdog. You too Krochus - nice job. Love the 35 Whelen.

statelinerut · « **Reply #7 on:** November 27, 2008, 03:36:03 AM »

Stevens 200 243.

This is a step by step on how to camo your hunting rig. This is my second paint project on a rifle and I like best so far. I learned a few things from my first project and made it better this time.

This a Stevens 200. Paid $280 for this rifle and it now looks like any other high dollar calling rig.

This is the factory rifle without any sanding or paint prep. This rifle came with an ugly plastic stock that need some sanding and prep. I took a 600 grit sand paper and sanded all the sharp edges down a little to give it a more smooth look. Some were really sharp and needed a touch up. Especially around the action area.

When you have completed the sanding and prep you want, take and wipe the whole stock down with a alcohol. This will rid the stock of any oils that will not allow the paint to cure as well. I also wear latex gloves during this process to keep the oils from my hands from getting on the surface.

This a picture after the base coat was applied. I used Krylon Camouflage Fusion paint bought at Walmart.

After letting is dry for 24 hours, I applied the pattern I wanted. I use a twig off of a cedar tree in the back yard as my stencil. Take and hold the stencil, whatever you choose to use, where you want it and make a swath with the color you want it to be. Make sure you DO NOT start or end the swath on the rifle as to cause a run in the paint. Just use your imagination here and dont be afraid to get creative. Just remember that your objective here is to have a rifle that blends in with you area of hunting. If you want a lighter rifle, make lighter swaths on you pattern and vice versa.

I then it hang to dry for at least an hour before handling.

This is the finished rifle. This pattern should blend very well where I do most of my hunting. Not too bright and not too dark. Should blend in very well.

pdog06 · « **Reply #8 on:** November 27, 2008, 04:14:40 AM »

NIce job. I like the design. Have you thought of painting the action and barrel too? I am thinking about it.

statelinerut · « **Reply #9 on:** November 27, 2008, 04:21:37 AM »

Quote from: pdog06 on November 27, 2008, 04:14:40 AM

NIce job. I like the design. Have you thought of painting the action and barrel too? I am thinking about it.

Yes. I thinking about it after first gun season ends. That will give me 2 weeks for it to cure before the 2nd gun season opens back up.

Steamin · « **Reply #10 on:** February 23, 2009, 10:17:43 AM »

Could I use a heavy aluminum arrow shaft or aluminum square tubing instead of the steel tubing.

Thanks
Steamin

Idaho Ron · « **Reply #11 on:** February 23, 2009, 03:05:43 PM »

pdog06, I love the way that stock turned out. You said, "After I clear it I will take some pics in the daylight so you can see the real color" what do you mean by "After I clear it " did you add a clear coat? if so what was it called and how much did you use? Thanks. Ron

Aught Six · « **Reply #12 on:** February 26, 2009, 12:53:26 PM »

Hey guys, let me ask a dumb question:

Is there anything more to taking the action out of the stock than removing the one screw mid-fore-end and the two holding the trigger group in? From the photos, I gather there isn't any kind of existing glass bedding in there and the screws fasten directly into the pillars...(?)

pdog06 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 26, 2009, 04:06:12 PM »

Quote from: Idaho Ron on February 23, 2009, 03:05:43 PM

pdog06, I love the way that stock turned out. You said, "After I clear it I will take some pics in the daylight so you can see the real color" what do you mean by "After I clear it " did you add a clear coat? if so what was it called and how much did you use? Thanks. Ron

I just put on a couple coats of Krylon matte clear to seal it all up. Probably didnt need to but I did. I am thinking about changing the color slightly cause the splatter paint has almost a blue/green tint to it in some spots. So I'm gonna respray it with the OD green, and then use black splatterpaint to see how that looks.

Look at it this way. Even if you screw it up 5 times, you can always paint it back gray and it will look new again

Steamin · « **Reply #14 on:** February 26, 2009, 04:27:25 PM »

pdog06 -- I've got a piece of 3/16" sq. metal shaft, is this sufficient to stiffen the forearm or should I use something stiffer ?
I've gotten the stock painted and I've worked on the trigger, I just need to stiffen the stock and wonder how deep I should go down for the metal stock.

Thanks
Steamin

Hank08 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 27, 2009, 06:54:41 AM »

Statelinerut, I've done at least a dozen and I also use a twig off a cedar in my yard. I usually start with a black coat and then go over it with olive and sometime some sand color leaving the twig pattern in black. I often do the whole gun including the scope. I did my 1st one in 1980 and although I"ve repaired a scratch or two 99% is the same paint. I still hunt with that gun and no water has ever got thru the paint to cause rust in 29 yrs. Better than blue as a rust preventative.

Pdog, If you've bedded your action and the 1st 2 inches of your barrel( to give it some support) and free floated the rest of it so it's not touching the stock then I'm still trying to figure out how that steel rod is going to help, won't hurt but how will it help? I like your granite pattern.
H08

pdog06 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 27, 2009, 07:21:52 AM »

Hank08,
Not sure about the varmint contour stocks, but on the sporters such as mine the whole forearm has alot of flex. Even after bedding the action and lug and opening up the barrel channel even more, you could still squeeze the barrel and stock and make them touch. You could even push the stock from the side and it would flex over and touch the barrel. After adding the steel rod it does not do that anymore, so it did infact stiffen up the forearm.

Steamin,
I'm sure the 3/16 would work. I tried to get something that I couldnt reaaly flex while out of the stock. I know people who have also used aluminum arrows cut to length.
I went with as big as I could cause I also wanted to add as much weight to the forend hoping it would calm down some of the muzzle jump of the .308 . It actually only added less than a 1/2lb though. If I did it over again I would've made it sit deeper in the stock, made it longer, and took it all the way to the end of the stock. I would've also notched the other end and made it go under the recoil lug.

pdog06 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 09, 2009, 08:20:54 AM »

The color I painted my stock finally wore on me enough that I repainted it this weekend. I scuffed up the current paint but made sure I left it so there was still some of the texture left on. Then added 2 coats of Krylon Fusion brown camo paint. Then fanned out a branch and sprayed over it with some Fusion OD green camo paint. Then I put on a coat of clear, but noticed it was the can of satin clear and not the matte clear, so I gotta add a coat of matte clear to deaden the sheen on it. Now I like it much better, and best of all my kids(ages 6 and 9) helped me do it.

Now that I look at this thread again, it looks very much like Statelineruts stock, and I even used the same kind of leaf design

. Did not realise it till I just decided to update my pics.

Kemmer · « **Reply #18 on:** April 05, 2009, 01:32:13 PM »

Really nice work. What is the best way to open/cut a channel in the stock for the metal rod?

pdog06 · « **Reply #19 on:** April 08, 2009, 01:10:33 AM »

Quote from: Kemmer on April 05, 2009, 01:32:13 PM

Really nice work. What is the best way to open/cut a channel in the stock for the metal rod?

dremel

but carefully. dremels are nice tools, but if you rush you'll go too far.

Saloon slug · « **Reply #20 on:** April 08, 2009, 04:31:22 PM »

I painted the whole gun expect for the bolt. In over cast weather it blends with the brush. In sunny weather it blends in more with the dead grass. I need to get a pic when the sun is out.

FW Conch · « **Reply #21 on:** April 09, 2009, 10:50:43 AM »

Good Job "Slug" ! And don't worry - the "critters" will never see it !

Jim

zoner · « **Reply #22 on:** April 18, 2009, 02:58:17 AM »

krylon "Fusion" is made for painting plastics and synthetics....i did a base coat of camo tan....gave it a day to dry then got some twigs with small leaves attached,laid them on the stock where i wanted them then held them down with a pencil and sprayed a combo of camo brown and camo green over the twigs....comes out pretty cool

MISSEDSHOT · « **Reply #23 on:** August 23, 2009, 03:29:48 PM »

Question for LaOtto222, where is the stainless trigger guard available at, part #, etc.Does the same one from a 11,10,110,111, fit?

moorepower · « **Reply #24 on:** September 04, 2009, 10:27:43 AM »

I was all set to use a rattle can of the spray on bedliner, but now?

pdog06 · « **Reply #25 on:** September 26, 2009, 05:37:17 PM »

Did another stock tonight, spraying on some camo colors(OD green, sand, and dk brown camo paints). This time I used a limb off my pine tree, and really like the way the pine needles came out in the finish.

slayer · « **Reply #26 on:** November 03, 2009, 03:19:51 AM »

Can you just use those camoflauge paint cans as is without the leaves and sticks looks? I may just do that. If so, what does it look like?