Author Topic: 32-20 Handi barrel (Read 2921 times)

trotterlg · « **on:** November 22, 2008, 08:44:18 AM »

There has always been a lot of intrest in 32-20's for the H&R's here. I have a little time and the PD barrel is on track to be finished for the spring shoot, so I ordered up a 32-20 reamer from PTG for $95.00 and will build one up. I started with a British .303 barrel, they are easy to get and cheap, have 5 lands and grooves with a left hand twist, all that I have had have excellent bores, plus you cut off the breach end and the muzzel end, so you end up with the best of the barrel to use. They have enough diameter to turn the breach end to .700 inch and still have a sholder in front to pull up against on the stub. These are a couple of pictures of the portion of the barrel that will go into the stub, it is threaded 20 TPI, however you could use anything that works out for you, I use the 20 TPI because the threads don't have to be cut too deep and it is the pitch that Savage uses on their barrels so it is probably suitable for rifle barrels. Later today or tomorrow I will post some pictures of the threaded sleeve that will hold the barrel into the stub, for now this is the progress I have made. The barrel will finish off at a little over 20 1/2 inches. I have a pistol chambered for 32-20 so I have ammo to shoot in it, we will see if these work out to be as fun to shoot as I think they would be, could also make a nice youth deer rifle. Larry

Spanky · « **Reply #1 on:** November 22, 2008, 11:04:38 AM »

Looking good Larry!!
I can't wait to see the finished barrel.

Spanky

GregP42 · « **Reply #2 on:** November 22, 2008, 02:08:46 PM »

Larry,

That looks too sweet!

Now if I just knew how to use a lathe myself, I would love to make a 32-20 handie for myself. I have two 32-20 pistols and my great grandfathers 92 Winchester in 32-20. I love the round and your right, if you watch bullet placement they will take deer just fine.

Greg

Slufoot · « **Reply #3 on:** November 22, 2008, 02:45:12 PM »

Very interesting Larry, I can't wait to see more pictures. Please keep us posted on your progress and take lots of pictures!

GOOD SHOOTING!
Slufoot

trotterlg · « **Reply #4 on:** November 22, 2008, 04:36:16 PM »

Here is a picture of the roughed threaded sleeve screwed onto the threaded barrel. Yes, it is a piece of shotgun barrel, it is bored to the proper diameter and then internally threaded. After the stub is prepared the OD of the sleeve will be turned to match the bored out portion of the stub. I always fit the easy to make parts to the hard to make parts so if I screw something up it is the easy to make part. After it is tightened down in the stub I just cut off the excess and then machine it and the end of the barrel flush with the breach of the of the shotgun stub. Larry

dpe.ahoy · « **Reply #5 on:** November 23, 2008, 06:10:19 AM »

Sigh, sure wish I had talent to do things like that. You are the "Wiz" Larry. DP

trotterlg · « **Reply #6 on:** November 25, 2008, 06:03:30 PM »

While I am getting ready to do the work on the stub I thought I would tell about how I do the parkerizing on the Handi barrels. I tried a few things, but this system is dead easy and cheap, I don't think there is $35.00 of parts in the tank system. I use 3 inch black schedule 40 PVC pipe. In a cap I drill a hole for a 120 volt water heater element, I use a nut for rigid electrical conduit which just happens to be the proper thread and size to tighten it down on the inside of the cap, the black RTV is used on all threads and also around the element, it is not as thick as it looks. I also drill the cap and put a 3/8 bolt through into the bottom of the tank to conduct the heat outside to a 175 degree thermostat to control the temperature. I wish I had taken pictures before I glued it all together, next time I make one I will do better. First picture is taken down the tube, you can see the top of the element and the bolt that goes through for the thermostat. I use high heat black paint to keep the parkerizing solution from eating the copper of the element, this has worked for a year on the one I use, so it seems to be a good way to do it. I then put a plug in the side of a 4 inch long piece of the pipe and glue it to the bottom of the cap, this gives something for it to sit on and keeps the wireing inclosed. Last picture is of the thermostat I use, about as big as a nickel, rated for 15 amps, the heating element draws about 11 amps. Good thing is that one quart of the solution makes 5 quarts of mixed solution which fills the tube to about 3 feet deep, plenty to suspend a barrel in. A pilot light tells when the heater is on or off so it goes off when the temp is right to start. I'll try to post some more pictures and answer any questions you may have. Larry

Slufoot · « **Reply #7 on:** November 25, 2008, 11:48:07 PM »

Extremely nice work Larry. I really like your parkerizing tank!

GOOD SHOOTING!
Slufoot

dpe.ahoy · « **Reply #8 on:** November 26, 2008, 04:04:25 PM »

Soon as you get the 32-20 done, parkerize it and send er on to me. Don't know how you found out my birthday is Friday, but thanks.

By the way, how do you get the legs of a tent frame the right lenght? I can't do it. Looks great Larry. DP

trotterlg · « **Reply #9 on:** November 28, 2008, 03:42:34 PM »

All the pieces are ready to go together now. Picture shows the barrel turned to .700 where it goes through the stub, the stub bored to .705 and the breach back bored to .830 for the retaining threaded sleeve and the threaded sleeve which will be tightened down and then machined off flush with the breach. Also my nice new 32-20 PTG reamer. Tomorrow it will all get screwed together and I will start finishing it off. Larry

Slufoot · « **Reply #10 on:** November 28, 2008, 11:38:36 PM »

Thank you trotterlg for showing us your work in progress this is very interesting.

GOOD SHOOTING!
Slufoot

Badnews Bob · « **Reply #11 on:** November 29, 2008, 03:12:32 AM »

Larry you make me oh so jealous, I would love to own those tools and have your skill. At least i get to see it done thru your postings. Keep up the good work.

I still want a .327 Magnum.

trotterlg · « **Reply #12 on:** November 29, 2008, 06:19:35 AM »

I am really hoping someone else will take a crack at doing one of these, there is always a better or easier way to do things, so someone out there get with it and make one up. Larry

trotterlg · « **Reply #13 on:** November 29, 2008, 07:40:38 AM »

It all screwed together now, I use JB weld at the front and rear on the threads to seal the inside really well. I also pin in the barrel at the front, just a little extra strength and it keeps the barrel from spinning while I tighten the rear lock sleeve. After it all sets up hard I will machine the breach, clean up all the rough spots, cut the extractor slot and make a barrel band. Still haven't figured out which ejector to use, but I have a bunch so one will come close to fitting. Larry

quickdtoo · « **Reply #14 on:** November 29, 2008, 07:42:39 AM »

I've got a bunch of shotgun ejectors if you need one.

Tim

krod47nw · « **Reply #15 on:** November 29, 2008, 08:12:30 AM »

Larry,
A few questions about the parkerizing tank. I assume the thermostat is somehow attached to the other end of the 3/8 bolt, correct? Where does one get such a thermostat, I assume it has some other use originally? Does it just wire in the hot wire to the element before the light? I looks like you use a computer power cord and receptical, correct? Where do you get the parkerizing solution?

Great job on the barrel. I think your method is the best and simplest I have seen.

Kevin

trotterlg · « **Reply #16 on:** November 29, 2008, 08:52:27 AM »

The thermostat touches the head of the bolt and is held down by two little screws. I put some head sink compound between them but I think I may use JB weld next time. I got the thermostats on Ebay, with shipping they were 12 for $10.00, pm me and I will send you one free. It is just in series with the heat element, I did connect the ground wire to the element, and yes it is a computer cord, you can get lots of the plugs from dead computers, and they are easy to install. Larry

Spanky · « **Reply #17 on:** November 29, 2008, 09:02:04 AM »

Lookin' good Larry.
Thanks for the pics of the parkerizing tank too.

Spanky

trotterlg · « **Reply #18 on:** November 29, 2008, 09:10:37 AM »

The solution I use is from Midway, Manganese Phosphate, they have the best price around, I buy a gallon and it costs me about $40.00 with the shipping I think, with all the barrels I have done I haven't used up a gallon yet. Larry

trotterlg · « **Reply #19 on:** November 29, 2008, 12:01:06 PM »

Not finished yet, but I cut the chamber and it would shoot a round, so I will claim the only 32-20 Handi in the free world until someone else show me one. Larry

quickdtoo · « **Reply #20 on:** November 29, 2008, 12:26:31 PM »

I think you're the first Larry, Awf Hand made a 32-40, but yours is the only 32-20 I could find.

Good work!!

Tim

http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,75549.msg465748.html#msg465748

Badnews Bob · « **Reply #21 on:** November 29, 2008, 01:33:22 PM »

If I had the tooling I think I would try my hand at this even thou I don't know how I just love to watch machinist work. I wish I could use some of the equipment we have at work but thats not gonna happen, So Larry you'll have to keep us satisfied for a while yet. Nice work.

trotterlg · « **Reply #22 on:** November 29, 2008, 01:45:10 PM »

Finished shaping the stub into the barrel, it is Dinner time and I will go to a show after that, so I am done for the day. Larry

GregP42 · « **Reply #23 on:** November 29, 2008, 02:30:47 PM »

Larry,

That looks too sweet! And I see you use Starline brass also, man oh man, so you need someone to test fire it for 'ya?

Greg

Spanky · « **Reply #24 on:** November 29, 2008, 02:58:53 PM »

Spanky

trotterlg · « **Reply #25 on:** November 30, 2008, 04:40:07 PM »

Cut the ejector notch in the barrel tonight and modified a Hornet ejector to fit the 32-20 cartridge. Here is something I have learned about fitting ejectors, if you modify one to fit something else, make sure it does not hold the rear of the cartridge up tight against the top of the chamber when you close the rifle. If it does it will allow the cartridge to buldge only at the bottom rear when it seals the chamber, this makes for funny looking once fired brass and also makes it hard for the rifle to eject it because it has a lump on the bottom. Don't ask how I know this. Larry

brennemanj83 · « **Reply #26 on:** November 30, 2008, 05:45:06 PM »

looking good

Slufoot · « **Reply #27 on:** November 30, 2008, 11:35:15 PM »

Larry, thank you for sharing this with us. It was very interesting.
Have you already crowned the muzzle?

GOOD SHOOTING!
Slufoot

jedman · « **Reply #28 on:** December 01, 2008, 02:56:28 AM »

Larry,

I have been following your posts showing your stubbing projects since your first 30 carbine gun and truly admire your skills and willingness to share all the photos of the process.
I will mention a methood that I have been using for a year or so to make 3 handi rifle barrels plus 1 of a different manufacturer.
I start with a H & R shotgun barrel mostly 16 and 20 ga. but 12 will work also, cut the length down to within a inch or so of what I want to Finnish at and take measurements of the bore diameter and the chamber.
Then I turn my barrel to about .005 under the size of the bore / chamber of the shotgun barrel and when I am happy with the fit I use a 2 part epoxy and glue the barrel / liner inside the shotgun barrel and let it cure for a couple days.
Then finish the breech end and make the cut for the ejector, then you can finish cutting the barrel to the length you want and either leave the OD of the shotgun barrel as it is or I have sometimes turned the OD from the forearm lug to the muzzle with a much faster taper to lighten the barrel some.
The main reason I have been doing it this way is that my lathe has a very small capacity, I can only put a maximum of .845 thru my spindle an only turn about 20" between centers and cannot cut threads with it.
I know some are going to think how can epoxy hold together with the pressure of a rifle cartridge ? Remember that the barrel / liner is much bigger at the breech end and the pressure when you fire it would be in all directions but cannot push the big end of the liner down thru the smaller bore of the shotgun barrel.
I hope none take offence to this, it's just a different methood and it works for me.
Jedman

trotterlg · « **Reply #29 on:** December 01, 2008, 03:32:24 AM »

That is what this thing is all about, figureing out how to do thngs better faster and different. Not having to cut threads is a big plus in the simple department, I spend half of the time it takes to make one of these just cutting threads. When you get some time please post some pictures of your process, sounds interesting. Larry