Author Topic: 1" bullet mould #2 (Read 1505 times)

Cat Whisperer · « **on:** April 03, 2009, 03:36:53 PM »

Cut out some aluminum blocks this evening. Lance & I are going to do a bit of machining tomorrow afternoon.
Tune in tomorrow ...

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #1 on:** April 04, 2009, 04:08:35 PM »

It's tomorrow!

Here are the pix.

Another learning experience! Comments on techniques are invited.

A shot of reaming - didn't move the block, reamed .001 under all the way and then .001 over just the top block.

Pressed in the pins in the same step - using the quill - ok, but need a bit more pressure, so vice method was better. Vice method used previously also allowed for trimming burrs off holes.

Center drilling was the same. Made the blocks within .002 thickness of eachother this time, made centering easier. Measured useful area between pins and other side and located bored hole between them. Since I used the pins on ONE side there was adequate clearance.

Boring bar with new insert. Have extras now and the torx tool to change them, need to order an extra screw.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #2 on:** April 04, 2009, 04:13:21 PM »

Lunch - polish sausages, mustard, horseradish!

Cookies too!

Forming the nose forming tool.

Rough form done.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #3 on:** April 04, 2009, 04:16:17 PM »

Roughed out nose forming tool.

Milling the relief.

First cuts.

Note relief cuts on nose.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #4 on:** April 04, 2009, 04:20:28 PM »

Sprue cutter cut with countersink.

AND THE CLASSIC mould and cookies shot - almost as famous as the cannon and GOEX powder can!

Ready to pour.

FIRST bullet from my SECOND mould!

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #5 on:** April 04, 2009, 04:23:48 PM »

Bullet #2 from mould #2

Sprue cut.

Two shots of two bullets - one cast and the one machined by the experts (M&T).

(The one on the left cast of wheel weights weighs just over 1/2 pound.)

RocklockI · « **Reply #6 on:** April 04, 2009, 04:43:32 PM »

That looks to me like a serious armor puncher ! Those holes will be cookie

cutter clean and easy to see.

It looked like it was basicly a solid except a bit at the end . Will there be a hollow base at some point ?

gary

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #7 on:** April 04, 2009, 04:58:49 PM »

Being a lead-tin-antimony alloy, I'm not sure what it would pentrate - it might go SPLAT!

We learned a bit from this one.

Note pix 15. The rounded egde and the 5degree shoulder were done with two tools. Next time I'll make up a shoulder cutter that will form a rounded edge and the slight taper in the shoulder - so that the bullet will pop out of the mould - which it does. (I'm impressed - only the SECOND mould I've made and it works!)

The nose cutter was made according to theory. It worked. (Form on lathe to the shape, mill half the thickness off and put into boring bar holder with perhaps 5 degree negative angle.) We learned to add a bit of clearance and to cut a 1/4" hole for entry so that the tool could be inserted into the hole to be cut.

What we need to do:

Make spade drill holder to cut majority of cavity in ONE pass - including diameter to be only, say, .020 undersize and form of nose to be close to finished form.

Use a thicker mold material - I'm ready to have plier-like handles!

AND - filling this mould was MARKEDLY different between using the standard 20-lb bottom pour mould and a 1-lb ladle. The 1-lb ladle filled it much faster and the quality was MUCH better. Check out the differnece between thefirst and the last. The first two were bottom pour, the rest ladle.

Might increase the size (1/4") of the sprue hole.

lance · « **Reply #8 on:** April 04, 2009, 05:02:10 PM »

Thanks again, Tim and Darlene, for another wonderful Day.
It's official, i'm now hooked on milling machines, horseradish, and cookies.

EL Caz 66 · « **Reply #9 on:** April 04, 2009, 05:10:14 PM »

Very Nice work Gents.. Where can I get the order form? I would One 1 " mold and two dozen Cookies..

Ed

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #10 on:** April 04, 2009, 05:36:08 PM »

Quote from: EL Cazador 66 on April 04, 2009, 05:10:14 PM

Very Nice work Gents.. Where can I get the order form? I would One 1 " mold and two dozen Cookies..

Ed

No order form. Come by and we'll make a mould. Cookies are free if we can talk Darlene into it.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #11 on:** April 04, 2009, 05:37:26 PM »

Quote from: lance on April 04, 2009, 05:02:10 PM

Thanks again, Tim and Darlene, for another wonderful Day.
It's official, i'm now hooked on milling machines, horseradish, and cookies.

Horseradish and cookies I understand.

Indeed a good time, looking forward to more of the same!

Ex 49'er · « **Reply #12 on:** April 04, 2009, 06:47:48 PM »

My hat is off to you gentlemen. That there is a right smart looking mould. The proof will be in the shooting. I'm looking forward to the working up of your powder charge.
Very impressive!!!!!!

Victor3 · « **Reply #13 on:** April 04, 2009, 07:31:37 PM »

Quote from: Cat Whisperer on April 04, 2009, 04:58:49 PM

Use a thicker mold material - I'm ready to have plier-like handles!

AND - filling this mould was MARKEDLY different between using the standard 20-lb bottom pour mould and a 1-lb ladle. The 1-lb ladle filled it much faster and the quality was MUCH better. Check out the differnece between thefirst and the last. The first two were bottom pour, the rest ladle.

Might increase the size (1/4") of the sprue hole.

For easy mould handles, you can attach a Vise-Grip clamp with pins or screws. I made a handle for a small radiation shield mould that way once, and will probably do the same for my 12 ga mould.

http://www.amazon.com/Vise-Grip-18-6SP-Locking-Clamp-Swivel/dp/B00004SBBN

Your ladle pour probably did better because you took the lead out of the top of the pot, where it's hotter.

I don't think you'll gain anything by making your hole more than 1/4". That's pretty big as it is. Hole I put in my 12 ga mould is 5/32 and it does fine...

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #14 on:** April 05, 2009, 01:18:15 AM »

Vice grips are a great idea. Cheap too. I'll make an adapter for regular bullet moulds - because locking to a set tension does give better results.

Respectfully disagree with the mould filling. On the bullets you can see the difference in the ripples on a fast vs slow ladle pour as well. Filling as fast as I could gave good - almost perfect results; by increasing the hole size - maybe two sprues (or spue and riser) I can get it in there faster. The bottom pour is set up for one cavity (as in .22 cal 43 grain to .45 cal 500gr moulds). We're making 3600 grain bullets!

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #15 on:** April 05, 2009, 01:20:08 AM »

Quote from: Ex 49'er on April 04, 2009, 06:47:48 PM

My hat is off to you gentlemen. That there is a right smart looking mould. The proof will be in the shooting. I'm looking forward to the working up of your powder charge.
Very impressive!!!!!!

The trajectory of a 1/2 LB 1" bullet will be much like a 45-70 Rainbow. The question is how much powder will flip the gun over? We certainly want less.

Victor3 · « **Reply #16 on:** April 05, 2009, 02:14:14 AM »

Quote from: Cat Whisperer on April 05, 2009, 01:18:15 AM

Respectfully disagree with the mould filling. On the bullets you can see the difference in the ripples on a fast vs slow ladle pour as well. Filling as fast as I could gave good - almost perfect results; by increasing the hole size - maybe two sprues (or spue and riser) I can get it in there faster. The bottom pour is set up for one cavity (as in .22 cal 43 grain to .45 cal 500gr moulds). We're making 3600 grain bullets!

You may be right; my ancient Lyman pot (complete with cloth cord

) dumps the lead pretty quick. Maybe that's why it works well with bigger bullets. I still have to crank the heat up and have a hot mould though...

Tropico · « **Reply #17 on:** April 05, 2009, 10:04:15 PM »

This is another AWESOME thread! Very nice indeed. My collection of 1" bores are begging for a mold like this one. Very nice indeed a great idea. Yes I am curious about powder load and recoil. I am thinking 1"swivel gun projo's. I bet accuracy is improved.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #18 on:** April 06, 2009, 01:28:23 AM »

SOMEONE needs to produce these! It's NOT me. Each of these chews up a Saturday. Even if I get the drilling to where I would just have to do a little boring and then do the nose forming it would take 3-4 hours of time. We took some shortcuts because these are experimental. For production I'd put in a shoulder bolt for the sprue cutter and at some point we'll likely have to add vent lines (haven't seen the need yet though).

Randell · « **Reply #19 on:** April 07, 2009, 01:24:56 PM »

Has anyone tried a shape like a shotgun slug with the Rifling on the slug. What about a hollow base to keep weight down
Thanks

GGaskill · « **Reply #20 on:** April 07, 2009, 01:46:22 PM »

Each of these chews up a Saturday. Even if I get the drilling to where I would just have to do a little boring and then do the nose forming it would take 3-4 hours of time.

That sounds like me. I take three or four things with me and at the end of a session, I am lucky to have finished one of them.

I guess that is why Lyman uses cherries to form the cavities in their moulds. Maybe you need to buy a CNC lathe.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #21 on:** April 07, 2009, 03:25:08 PM »

Quote from: Randell on April 07, 2009, 01:24:56 PM

Has anyone tried a shape like a shotgun slug with the Rifling on the slug. What about a hollow base to keep weight down
Thanks

My next mould will be for my double 10ga. I had a couple of cylinder bore chokes made so I could shoot slugs (cheap double rifle shooting 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 oz slugs).

I'll post pix, as it will relate to bullet design.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #22 on:** April 07, 2009, 03:27:02 PM »

Quote from: GGaskill on April 07, 2009, 01:46:22 PM

Each of these chews up a Saturday. Even if I get the drilling to where I would just have to do a little boring and then do the nose forming it would take 3-4 hours of time.

That sounds like me. I take three or four things with me and at the end of a session, I am lucky to have finished one of them.

I guess that is why Lyman uses cherries to form the cavities in their moulds. Maybe you need to buy a CNC lathe.

I do have a 6" wide double acting vice that I'm in the process of making into a mould block maker. Someday. (A LOT sooner than me getting a CNC anything.)