Author Topic: Octagon Handi Barrel (Read 10059 times)

quickdtoo · « **on:** March 26, 2011, 02:54:59 PM »

As I've posted before, I love Superlight barrels, I bought a Compact Superlight SB1 44mag with the intention of rechambering it to 444 Marlin, but my hopes were dashed unfortunately, the name Superlight in this case is unfounded, the barrel is just a standard contour 44mag barrel that's 20" long. So I decided to make it a Superlight, with encouragement from members, I decided to mill the barrel octagonal to reduce weight, so here's the start the project, got 3 sides roughed out, top, bottom and left side, so far, so good. It's a tedious chore on the mini-mill, I can only cut .005" deep per pass, and the width of the flats at the breech end require two passes to makes a full width cut due to the diameter of the end mill, I'd like a ½" end mill to make it go a little faster, but won't be able to get one until Monday tho. I have lots of HSS end mills, but due to the hard spots in the barrel, which has been mentioned here before, a carbide mill cuts so much nicer, only have the one 5/16" tho, that will be remedied soon tho.

More later,

Tim

RANGE REPORT ADDED: http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,236336.msg1099335290.html#msg1099335290

mechanic · « **Reply #1 on:** March 26, 2011, 03:13:25 PM »

Tim,

I'm finding "hard spots" in just about every kind of steel now. I blame it on the fact that most of it is recycled, and no doubt everything from fence posts to ball bearings go into the smelter.

You are now working on a "KOOL" project. I love the octagon barrels, don't know why other than nostalgia, but I like them nontheless.

I'll watch this one with interest.

Ben

keith44 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 26, 2011, 03:29:39 PM »

cool idea!!!

I've got a couple questions about it though. What will be the wall thickness be when done? How will you dress the change in diameter from chamber area to bore area? wedding ring and leave the chamber OD in its factory shape and size? or just taper the flats up onto the chamber area?

quickdtoo · « **Reply #3 on:** March 26, 2011, 03:39:50 PM »

Barrel wall will be about .200", I'll use a ball end mill to make the transition from the chamber swell to the flats.

Tim

srussell · « **Reply #4 on:** March 26, 2011, 03:44:50 PM »

that will look nice. Ive thought about stubbing a octagon barrel. keep the pics coming please

PHATINJUN · « **Reply #5 on:** March 27, 2011, 08:06:14 AM »

Don't you dare put a scope on this thing when you are done

Kurt

cwlongshot · « **Reply #6 on:** March 27, 2011, 10:13:31 AM »

Interesting project Tim!!

Keep the updates and pics coming!!

CW

quickdtoo · « **Reply #7 on:** March 27, 2011, 10:18:42 AM »

Thanks, it wll get a scope, no sense in making it if I can't hit what I'm shooting at!

We also have a minimum requirement of at least 3pts on one side for bucks, a scope makes that determination quick and easy, lots quicker than binos.

Tim

Metaldoc · « **Reply #8 on:** March 27, 2011, 10:22:36 AM »

Could you share a bit about your set-up? Are you setting up so the centerline of the barrel is level when you mill the flats or do you level the top surface that you are milling. I'm trying to visualize how this plays out with the tapered barrel, but am thinking the latter method would maintain the taper.
Thanks for sharing this project with us!

quickdtoo · « **Reply #9 on:** March 27, 2011, 10:36:46 AM »

That was the easy part once I figured out how to do it, to keep it simple I just measured the difference between the diameter on each side of my vice, then added shims on the small end to level the bore and align the barrel with the x-axis of the mill, the flats are straight, no taper, that's why there's more of the original contour towards the muzzle, haven't decided to leave it slightly round, or shorten it back to the full diameter octagon, just depends on how I like the looks. Right now the bore at the muzzle is centered in the flats and the muzzle width is within .008" of the width at the breech end. My goal isn't to make it a perfect octagonal barrel, I'll be happy if it's functional and light weight, and looks reasonably good.

Tim

billy_56081 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 27, 2011, 11:29:23 AM »

I'd be interested to know if this will change the inside diameter of the barrel.

petemi · « **Reply #11 on:** March 27, 2011, 11:54:34 AM »

I take it you're leaving it at 22 inches, or are you gonna cut it? It would look sweet on a BC set.

Pete

quickdtoo · « **Reply #12 on:** March 27, 2011, 12:31:58 PM »

Quote from: billy_56081 on March 27, 2011, 11:29:23 AM

I'd be interested to know if this will change the inside diameter of the barrel.

That has always been a concern when turning a barrel down since H&R barrels are stress relieved, I did a chamber cast with an inch of the bore included, and slugged it as well, so I' may be able to able to tell if it changes.

Quote from: petemi on March 27, 2011, 11:54:34 AM

I take it you're leaving it at 22 inches, or are you gonna cut it? It would look sweet on a BC set.

Pete

It's a 20" barrel, I may cut it to 18" if I have to, but only if it looks really bad, I'm holding my breath to see what the octagon to slightly round muzzle looks like, I don't think the flats will remove all of the round contour, it won't be a traditional octagon to round appearance, that's for sure.

Tim

gcrank1 · « **Reply #13 on:** March 27, 2011, 04:07:40 PM »

IIRC, that transition to the round you are contemplating is called 'tulip'.

PHATINJUN · « **Reply #14 on:** March 27, 2011, 05:58:36 PM »

Well then if you are gonna scope it you might as well put one of the rubber thingy's on the bbl to tune it

Kurt

gcrank1 · « **Reply #15 on:** March 27, 2011, 06:03:06 PM »

Im thinkin' a Weaver B or J series in 3/4" or maybe a Leatherwood c/w ext. adj. on a custom rail for a classic look.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #16 on:** March 27, 2011, 06:10:26 PM »

I have an M8 2½x20 Leupold Compact that will work great on it.

Tim

cwlongshot · « **Reply #17 on:** March 27, 2011, 06:15:24 PM »

Quote from: quickdtoo on March 27, 2011, 06:10:26 PM

I have an M8 2½x20 Leupold Compact that will work great on it.

Tim

NICE lil scope!!

CW

PHATINJUN · « **Reply #18 on:** March 28, 2011, 02:12:46 PM »

Tim I take back all the kidding on this I failed to read the part about rechambering to the triple four. I to would have to scope that . Kurt

quickdtoo · « **Reply #19 on:** March 28, 2011, 03:41:17 PM »

That's Ok Kurt, I just ignored your comment, old guys can do that ya know!!

But thanks!

Tim

dpe.ahoy · « **Reply #20 on:** March 28, 2011, 07:33:46 PM »

Looks like it's comin along real good Tim. Otta make a nice light 444. DP

quickdtoo · « **Reply #21 on:** March 28, 2011, 08:28:33 PM »

Got 5½ flats done so far, looks like there will be a bit of rounded octagon near the muzzle tho, but it's a lot lighter and that's what I'm after.

thanks,

Tim

Lon371 · « **Reply #22 on:** March 28, 2011, 08:45:14 PM »

Cool project Tim. Some of you guys have way to much talent. I will pay the shipping if you can send any extra(talent) you run across.

Lonny

quickdtoo · « **Reply #23 on:** March 28, 2011, 08:49:18 PM »

Thanks Lonny, but lots of you fellas probably have the talent and just don't know it, ya just have to give it a try, kinda like your first trigger job, seemed daunting and scary, but once done, a fella realizes it wasn't all that bad, and after all, it's just a Handi!!

Tim

gcrank1 · « **Reply #24 on:** March 29, 2011, 04:29:22 AM »

To finish off all the flats do like the old time muzzleloader 'smiths, 'draw file'

.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #25 on:** March 29, 2011, 06:34:07 AM »

Yup, that was my plan, have done several muzzle loader barrels, I've even thought about browning it with LMF instead of bluing!

Tim

OSOK · « **Reply #26 on:** March 29, 2011, 08:08:52 AM »

Ok Tim, this thread begs the question, how much would you charge those of us that don't have access to the machinery to perform this? I really want a Superlight Handi, I just don't care for the chamberings they offer.

Antietamgw · « **Reply #27 on:** March 29, 2011, 08:37:48 AM »

Quote from: quickdtoo on March 29, 2011, 06:34:07 AM

Yup, that was my plan, have done several muzzle loader barrels, I've even thought about browning it with LMF instead of bluing!

Tim

Get it struck and finished and I'll run it through with the next batch I blue, should be mid-April.

I'm curious and don't have a barrel "handi" to measure. Was the original contour a straight taper from muzzle to the transition in front of the chamber?

quickdtoo · « **Reply #28 on:** March 29, 2011, 11:08:13 AM »

Quote from: OSOK on March 29, 2011, 08:08:52 AM

Ok Tim, this thread begs the question, how much would you charge those of us that don't have access to the machinery to perform this? I really want a Superlight Handi, I just don't care for the chamberings they offer.

About $5000!!

Just kidding, it's just so labor intensive that I don't think I'm inclined to make a business out of it, it's just a hobby, making work out of it just doesn't sound like fun, you could send a barrel to a gunsmith and have it turned down for well under $100, then reattach the forend stud, that's what I'd recommend for a lighter barrel.

Tim

quickdtoo · « **Reply #29 on:** March 29, 2011, 11:14:56 AM »

Quote from: Antietamgw on March 29, 2011, 08:37:48 AM

Get it struck and finished and I'll run it through with the next batch I blue, should be mid-April.

I'm curious and don't have a barrel "handi" to measure. Was the original contour a straight taper from muzzle to the transition in front of the chamber?

Thanks for the offer, that's sounds much better than the cold bluing that I'd do, I'll think on that, the browned barrel certainly would be unique tho. This barrel is a standard heavy contour 44mag barrel, it's tapered from just ahead of the chamber swell to the muzzle.

Tim