Reloading Bench

[GrampaMike]

I am getting quite a collection of "Stuff" for the reloading process.  I have cleaned out a room on the lower floor of the house.  Floor is concrete base with linoleum tiles.  Size is 9' x 11'.  What size Reloading bench should I buy or make?  I know it has to be sturdy enough for the press.  Thanks Mike.

[ricciardelli]

http://stevespages.com/pdf/bench.pdf

[GrampaMike]

Thanks Ricciardelli.  I downloaded the plans and printed.

[Iowegan]

Mike, The bigger the better in my opinion. I have a large work area so I made a 4X8' reloading table that doubles for cleaning guns and even some "light" gunsmithing.  In your space, a 4X4' would be nice. It's great to be able to work on all sides, kinda like a pool table.  I have a bench vise mounted on one corner and my presses mounted on one side. That leaves plenty of room to spread out stuff when I load. You'll end up with a case trimmer, lube pad, scale, tricklier, primer tray, loading blocks, and other "stuff" spread over the surface.

I built my table out of 2X4s and particle board. The top is 3/4" and the shelves are 1/2". The standard height for a work bench is 30" but I'm tall and like to stand straight when I work. So, I made the top 36" from the floor. Works great for me. I built two full sized shelves so, counting the floor, I have 3 levels of storage, about 1 foot high. This comes in very handy for storing empty brass, bullets, powder, tools, cleaning supplies, and accessories.  The table is free standing and plenty heavy for the press. With the shelves, it eliminates the need for external storage.

In my last house, I had a bench connected to a wall. It worked OK but I found a more accessible surface really helps.  Good luck on your project.

[50 Calshtr]

Mike,
   Make it as heavy as you can.  Mine is 6' long by 30" deep, constructed of 4x4s and 2x8s using lag bolts and carriage bolts.  It weighs a ton but but didn't move when I broke a 6" vise bolted to it a couple of years ago. Work surface should be about elbow or belly-button high, don't make it any lower or you'll end up with a sore back from bending over.  Any shelves should be seperate, attached to the wall or free standing, not attached to the bench.  You don't want to shake things off the shelves if you really need to "lean" on the vice or press.  Use construction shims to level the legs at the floor if there is any wobble.  Spend the extra $20 on the heavier lumber, mine has lasted 20+ years of almost daily use.
Best

[Thomas Krupinski]

Mike, I have a bit larger area that is dedicated for that purpose and have a few large benches set up for metalic and shotshell.  The bigger and sturdier are good things to have on a bench, but don't overlook small and mobile.

I also have a couple of those Midway portable stands, and have a third on order that should arrive in a couple of days.  You might consider leaving space of one of those as they are excellent tool head that can be used for a bunch of things that you may not want to use on your bench due to vibration or mess.  They are very stable and you can bolt to them or attach items that are fixed to a piece of plywood to them with a C clamp.

Right now I have a case trimmer clamped to one and a RockChucker and Uniflow bolted to another.  What is nice is that you can move them around to complement your stuff that is permanently mounted.  The third one I am planning to use, with a plywood surface clamped over the plastic, to stand a Lee 20 lb. lead furnace when I cast outside.

The other nice thing about them is you can take them with you for all sorts of things.  I can use it in my motorhome or at the range.

[Questor]

Sturdy and waist high. You want something that works for you while you're standing, or while you're sitting on a bar stool. By sturdy I mean immovable.

[GrampaMike]

Thanks Shane.  I sent you an email.

[timbertoes]

A solid core door works very very well.  While it may be particle board, it is 1-3/4 or more, thick, and quite heavy and flat.

affix/put it on top of  two base cabinets  from the local borg, and you're done.

[hogship]

There are many ways to put together a reloading bench that works well, and it sounds like there are some good ones owned by those who posted to this thread.

Here's mine.

It was a custom made commercial shop bench for a knife manufacturing outfit that went out of business. I just happened to be at the right place at the right time to get it for free! The frame is heavy and all steel, and the top is 1/2" plywood. The top isn't as thick as it should be for reloading purposes, but I went underneath and reinforced the area under the vise and single stage press.....works terrific!

I suggest you find a way to keep your tools and dies covered when not in use. Dust is a killer for reloading equipment. Good lighting is important, too.

hog

[GrampaMike]

Shane in WI.  Your benches are much too nice for me to work on.  I do like them though.


Lets See...  Sturdy and heavy.  Good Lighting.  Keep tools from dust when not being used.  As big a table top as space permits.


Thanks guys.

[grizz]

Here is another one to give ya some ideas.. It is 4'x8' by 1/2".. There is a 1/4" angle steel plate under the press so the edge of the plywood wont give..

[Shane in WI]

Nice set up Grizz.  Is that an old MEC 310 I see in the back?  I have the same press for specialty loads.   Mec tells me there are no parts available any longer, but I was able to fabricate the few that broke over the past few years.  It's over 40 years old as I understand it.

[grizz]

Shane,

 Thanks! nope thats a old MEC 650..

grizz

[HappyHunter]

Strong is far more important than heavy.

My bench(s) is (are) double laminated 3/4 plywood on a 2x4 frame anchored to wall and floor.

The key is to anchor to wall and floor.  This will eliminate most all vibrating and shaking.  Your future digital  sclale will thank you.

Good luck.

Fred