Author Topic: educate me, cas bullets  (Read 459 times)

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Offline mitchell

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educate me, cas bullets
« on: September 13, 2004, 05:13:00 PM »
i'm in the prosses of trying to get a 30-30 barrel from a guy i know and if i get it i will be thinking highly about getting into making my own bullets. it sounds like a lot of fun. i've look at some of the mold as LEE's website and i really have no clue what i'm doing. what mold would i want for the 30-30? i would like to shoot bullets around 150 grains if i could. also is there any preparation you have to do to the bullet before you seat it? and should i even do this with the 30-30 or should i wait until i get a 44mag or 357 or whatever ? anyway i really have very little knowledge about this so please help me out all you can please. thank you.

mitch
curiosity killed the cat , but i was lead suspect for a while

Offline mitchell

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educate me, cas bullets
« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2004, 05:35:39 PM »
and what is "gas check"????  and is it a must??? thanks
curiosity killed the cat , but i was lead suspect for a while

Offline Leftoverdj

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« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2004, 08:33:32 PM »
MItchell, a gas check is a little copper cup that goes on the bottom of bullets designed to take it. Plain base bullets are severely limited in velocity. GC bullets are capable of near full .30-30 velocity. All of Lee's .30 cal moulds are designed for GCs and I have never gotten decent results shooting GC bullets without GCs.

NEF barrels run a little big and cast bullets absolutely have to be a little fatter than the barrel. Lee's C312-155-2R bullet has given me excellent results in several .30 cal rifles and I think they worked for Vance in his Handi .30-30. I size those .311 for .30 cals.

The minimum to get started would be:

1. Alloy (Generally wheelweights and start looking now.)
2. Heat source (Single burner propane, camp stove, older electric hot plate.)
3. Cast iron or steel pot, 1-2 quarts (DON"T use aluminum)
4. Junk tablespoon to skim with
6. Candle to flux and lube the mold with.
7. Spouted casting ladle (dunno what they cost but I have a spare for $5)
8. Mould ($13 for Lee. Much more for other brands)
9. Wooden kitchen matches to smoke mould with. Don't use the candle.
10. Box of gas checks ($18?)
11. Lee .311 pushthrough sizing die. ($13) (Comes with a bottle of lube.) Works with the press you have so you don't need to buy another expensive gadget.
12. Hammer handle or other convenient hardwood stick for knocking sprue plate open
13 Tin can to put the dross you skim off in.
14. Beer flat and rags to drop bullets on.

Optional items -- Lee Universal Expanding Die to flare the case necks, $10. I got along for years with a tapered center punch for that chore.

Tin (Wheelweights and most other scrap lead sources cast better with some tin added. 2% is about right for WW.)

If you have $13 to gamble after you get all that, you might add a Lee C312-185-1R mould to that. I have not tried that one and can't swear that it will work, but it should. The better the nose fits on top the rifling, the better cast bullets work. NEF barrels are a little oversized and have shallow rifling so that mould with its fatter nose is a good bet. You are likely limited to about 2200 fps (less unless you heat treat your bullets), so you might as well throw as much lead as you can.

Lee C309-180-1R is also worth looking at because you could harden those just by dropping them into a bucket of water as you cast and probably not soften them when you crimp the GC on. (Unless it is unusually big for a Lee bullet, the sizer won't size at all because the bullet will be somewhere between .309 and .311 as cast.)

You get really into it, you'll spend a lot more money, but that gets you started and you break even in about 300 bullets. Order your stuff from Midway or MidSouth to get the prices I listed and because your local dealer won't have it all on hand.
It is the duty of the good citizen to love his country and hate his gubmint.

Offline JPH45

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« Reply #3 on: September 14, 2004, 12:57:13 PM »
Do a google search for cast bullet forums and spend some time reading about this too. DJ's list is a good place to start. Casting is a dimension of reloading all its own. I think some casters have guns so they have an excuse to cast. It is to some degree an aquired skill, meaning that you are going to have moments that nothing you do seems to make good bullets, and there will be moments that it is impossible to make bad ones. I really like Lees molds, and I especially like a product from Midway, Frankford Arsenal Mold Release. This product did more to improve the quality of casting and the ease of casting than anything Ihave done in 20+ years of making cast bullets. Stuff works on aluminum, iron or steel molds equally well.

Lyman has a couple of good cast bullet manuals out, get one, or the RCBS. The regular Lyman reloading manuals have pretty good sections on casting too. Mike Venturino wrote a number of good articles on casting in the late eighties and early ninties. It may be possible to find some of these issues in yard sales and such. I don't know a definative book on the subject, but as wtih relaoding and guns in general, read everyting you can get your hands on, and you know where to find us when you're ready to crank that melting pot up.
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Offline Leftoverdj

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« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2004, 01:50:54 PM »
JPH45. I like that FA Mold Release, too, but it makes bullets cast a thou smaller than without it. With a mould that already cases as small as you want it, that can be a problem.

I mostly use the stuff to coat the top of the blocks and the bottom of the sprue plate. It eliminates galling and lead soldering onto the sprue plate.
It is the duty of the good citizen to love his country and hate his gubmint.