Graybeard Outdoors (GBO Reloaded)
H&R Talk => H&R Centerfire Rifles => Topic started by: Titan_Bow on March 08, 2011, 06:45:55 AM
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I'm set on buying an H&R in .308. I really like the Survivor model the best. Are there specific things to look at (ie. manufacture dates, model number prefixes, etc.) The reason I ask, from researching the forums, I've read some people getting crisp 3.5 lbs. tigger pull, and others having much heavier trigger pulls and having to send them in to get to 3.5lbs. I've also read some people having problems and comments about the newer frames are better, etc. So, in looking for a new rifle, what do you look for? Also, is there any difference in other H&R models in .308 other than the stock? Its hard to tell from the online pics, but I've seen an Ultra Hunter and a Handigrip in .308 with 22" barrel, but no mention of a bull barrel. Are these the exact same gun as the Survivor, just different grip?
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Ist thing I do is pick it up and see if barrel is tight or if it wiggles. If it dont wiggle then just look at usual like bore and stock for abuse or honest wear.
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I don't care for the bull barrels if you're going to hunt. They want to sling muzzle down, and I don't like that or lugging the extra weight around the woods. The .308 is a very good choice. It is very versatile and works in the thick woods or open fields. It's a good all round caliber. Good luck,
Pete
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Like almost all new guns, with the exception of maybe the Savage with Accu-Trigger, the trigger pull is likely to be heavier than older (and well broke in) rifles. I dont mind a bit heavy if it is a crisp let-off, but on these rifles you MUST do a full pull follow through, not stop your finger when the trigger 'breaks'.
The lock-up when you close the barrel should take some effort, even a healthy snap to close it. Do not expect it to close and lock like a hand fitted, and broke in, English doublegun! If it closes up too easily, or rattles if you try to move it, it is BAD; no way will it get better as you use it.
Both action and trigger will get better with use on a tight rifle.
BTW, dont worry if things seem a tad loose when you open the barrel, that is normal.
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All of the above,and be sure to lay the rifle down on its right side and try cocking the hammer a few times.If it binds any while doing this,the transfer bar is about to fall out.Do it on the left side also. There's only been a few that does that lately,but it was pretty often a few yrs. back. Digger
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here is what i do, and its saved my butt a couple of times
1. check for barrel/receiver movement
2. cock and uncock hammer multiple times and listen for irregularities
3. cock hammer and pull trigger but hold hammer and see how far firing pin protrudes with trigger fully engaged
4. press barrel release and look for play, should have a little
5. open action and close multiple times, should shut without having to slam it closed
6. check ejector and or extractor for functionality
7. check chamber for tool marks
8. check rifling at chamber and muzzle
9. check crown for damage
10. if drilled and tapped check and make sure holes are not stripped, check scope rail screws too
11. check stock for damage
12. shake the gun and listen for loose parts in action
13. check transfer bar to make sure it is securely in place
14. CHECK RECEIVER AND BARREL AND MAKE SURE THE 3 NUMBERS ON THE BARREL LUG ARE THE SAME AS THE LAST 3 DIGITS ON THE SERIAL NUMBER OF THE RECEIVER. IF NOT BARREL WAS NOT FACTORY FIT. I RECCOMMEND TO STAY AWAY
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Giday folks, some really good advice in here ! Wish I had known what to check before I brought my preloved handis ! May be Quick could put a link in the FAQ'S to this thread for newbees !
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It is!! ;D ;D ;D
Tim