257 +P brass for 6mm

[singleVI]

Ive read theres +P brass for the 257 roberts and its thicker and stronger to be able to handle the beefier loadings. I was wondering if you formed 6mm Remington brass from the +P Rob brass  you could bumb up the 6mm remington a lil bit?

[iiranger]

#1). Probably yes... but

#2). All brass begins to become "fluid" [like chewing paraffin wax in your mouth] at pressures above 55K CUP. The Roberts dates back to when pressures were usually held to the 45K CUP range because of the rifles/steels available. .30/'06 for example. Drug store cowboys would rant how much better the .270 was (at 55K CUP). Loaded to same pressure, there is about a dimes worth of difference. I suspect that the +P nonsense was to distinguish the ammo (and build a legal defense) for use in only very modern guns. Rugers and the like. WARNING!!!

You could weigh a couple cases, non +P and +P and see if there is that much more "stuff" in the +P which brings up the next question... if there is more brass/less capacity, can you load as much and get the same preformance.

It is a fun discussion topic. Mr. Gibbs recommended Denver '43 brass for making his wildcats. Thought it was stronger. ?? If it shoots better for you, DO IT. If not, well, you don't loose that much running the old brass to 47K CUP... In fact, you might find the old brass gives you more accurate loads... You just got to try... luck.

[Graybeard]

Actually NO NO NO! In fact just the opposite.

Thicker brass has less internal volume that means you need to LOWER not RAISE the load to be safe.

The factory 6MM Remington brass is perfectly adequate for any load safe in the rifle. Using brass with lesser internal volume and then adding powder thinking the thicker brass makes this safe is a SERIOUSLY STUPID MISTAKE that can cost you parts of your body and/or rifle. DO NOT DO IT>

[singleVI]

I wasnt going to try it, it was just something that popped into my head one day. I forgot about the need to change charges in relation to capacity.