Author Topic: Blue Streak Trigger  (Read 1322 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline springer222

  • Trade Count: (1)
  • Avid Poster
  • **
  • Posts: 191
Blue Streak Trigger
« on: December 24, 2006, 02:58:29 PM »
I have a Benjamin Sheridan Blue Streak that has a trigger that is horrendous - feels like 20#'s. I took the rifle apart and looked at the possibility of a trigger job. The trigger assembly is fairly simple, but before installing lighter springs and smoothing contact surfaces, I want to know if there are any watch outs that I may be overlooking.

Offline Shootist Elite

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Member
  • *
  • Posts: 17
Re: Blue Streak Trigger
« Reply #1 on: December 30, 2006, 06:24:00 AM »
You don't specify exactly which Sheridan you have. Is it an older model (model C) or one of the newer types. I am somewhat familiar with the older ones but don't know if there the same or different from the more current versions. The older ones basically consist of a Spring behind the rear of the trigger piece to control the resistence or weight of the trigger pull itself and the trigger unit itself. If what you have is the same as my older ones the trigger and the sear that releases the mechanism is all 1-piece. Their pretty straightforward as far as working on them. You can remove the pin that holds the trigger piece to the bottom of the tube or work on it while its still attached,its your choice, I've done it both ways. You want to clear up the face of that trigger sear that rides up into the bottom of the tube where it holds back the piece that releases the valve. I've used 2000 grit sandpaper available from NAPA followed by Flitz polish. You can get a mirror type finish on the trigger sear itself using this method. With a little patience and dexterity you can to some degree do the same for the contact piece located inside the bottom of the tube where the trigger contacts. If these two parts are cleaned up and perhaps a little Black Moly paste applied to the face surfaces thats generally all you need. The way these things are set up there is quite a bit of sear contact before the parts bypass one another. If you think this is to much and causing you probems shooting I found 2 simple ways to cure it. one is to shorten the height of the trigger sear itself so that it doesn't ride up as high into the underside of the tube. The problem with this method is that if you go to far you have to replace the trigger part itself. This shouldn't happen if you take your time and recheck it periodically as you go. The other method is to use some sort of metal tape and put a few pieces on the underside of the tube located directly between the trigger and the tube. This causes the triigger piece to contact the metal tape and prevents it from riding as high into underside of the tube thus shortening the sear engagement. It may sound like a stupid way of doing it but it does work and if you don't like the results just add more tape remove some or remove all of it and you can have it back to its original self. As far as the spring goes i've personally never looked into the possibility of replacing it with a lighter one. If you try the methods above and do a good job you can end up with a nice clean release and arouind a 3lb pull weight. Not bat for what is basically a non adjustable trigger and one that is "rock" simple in design. Good Luck

Offline sixgunSal

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Member
  • *
  • Posts: 42
  • Gender: Male
Re: Blue Streak Trigger
« Reply #2 on: December 31, 2006, 03:51:06 AM »
What a great and informative post.   ;D ;D  I have just purchased a 1978 Bluestreak, and having never owned one before, I'm not real sure how to "open it up" so to speak.  Your post on the trigger was one of the things I was looking for.  The other thing is striping it down.  Do you have or know where there is any type of "How To" for taking this bluestreak apart?  tia

sgS

Offline Shootist Elite

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Member
  • *
  • Posts: 17
Re: Blue Streak Trigger
« Reply #3 on: December 31, 2006, 11:24:18 AM »
I never took one down completely and don't know for sure where there is published material on this. My impression is though that you may need some special factory tools or at the very least some improvised home tools to do it correctly. If what your looking for is to get it resealed it generally costs around $50.00 and that includes shipping both ways if the distance your sendiing to isn't to far. At least thats been my past experience. If memory serves me correct the actual labor charge for this was somewhere between $15.00 and $20.00. I think to get one of the "factory" reseal kits that I see on E-Bay now and then they run $35.00 to $45.00.This is to the best of my memory. I hope this helps some.