Author Topic: cutting the rust  (Read 831 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline gunnut69

  • Moderators
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5005
cutting the rust
« on: June 06, 2003, 11:55:39 AM »
Perhaps someone here has some ideas. I've got an 1885 Winchester Highwall in 38-55 in the shop. No wood, as it was in a fire. All springs are greatly weakened and there is severe rusting. It's been quite some time since the fire and EVERYTHING is frozen solid. The blue is flaking. I wish take the weapon apart but nothing is budging. It's rusted in place. Any suggestions on how I might free this thing up enough to take it down? Need idea guys. I've tried all the LiquidWrench, Kroil, and other types of oils that I though might help and still tight as a buchhorn. I'm getting ready to try the 'soak in deisel fuel' trick but perhaps someone here may have a better idea...
gunnut69--
The 2nd amendment to the constitution of the United States of America-
"A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed."

Offline Big

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Avid Poster
  • **
  • Posts: 117
cutting the rust
« Reply #1 on: June 07, 2003, 08:13:58 AM »
Oil won't dissolve rust, and neither will diesel fuel.  Whatcha need is something that will attack rust.  Try painting the screws liberally with Naval Jelly or other rust remover, with the idea of soaking it into the thread area.

Along with that, get or braze up a screwdriver blade on a socket, and use a breaker bar to get the screws turning.  Use caution, lest you shear off the heads.  Then you're down to drilling and tapping.

If that doesn't work, I'd send it to the NRA museum as is.
"...the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed."

Offline rickyp

  • Trade Count: (19)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3052
  • Gender: Male
cutting the rust
« Reply #2 on: June 07, 2003, 09:48:52 AM »
did you try using a torch and heating up the parts then a well fitting screw driver to remove them

Offline John Traveler

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1359
cutting the rust
« Reply #3 on: June 07, 2003, 08:45:50 PM »
GN60,

Try rapping smartly on the receiver with a brass hammer after the penetrating oak soak.

I've had good luck in loosening up screw joints and fasteners using that method.  A mechanical engineer friend said that the rapping produces ultrasonic waves and that helps to get the penetrating oil to where it can do some good.
John Traveler

Offline gunnut69

  • Moderators
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5005
cutting the rust
« Reply #4 on: June 08, 2003, 12:07:34 PM »
I've tried the brass hammer and penetrating oil. Several different types of oil. I've heated the parts and frozen them. Freezing usually work the best on rusted parts as the steel shrinks a bit, making the holes a bit larger and the screws a bit smaller. Unfortunately they allowed the gun to sit for quite a while after the fire and the rust has frozen the action completely tight. I did manage to remove the mainspring and it's barrel mount and screw. I may try a bath in diluted NavalJelly. Holing the dilution will allow the stuff to get deeper into the rust.. Thanks for the suggestions.
gunnut69--
The 2nd amendment to the constitution of the United States of America-
"A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed."

Offline waksupi

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Member
  • *
  • Posts: 86
cutting the rust
« Reply #5 on: June 11, 2003, 07:51:34 PM »
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm

Go to this site, and follow the instructions. I 've used it many times over the years on guns, traps, knives, you name it. Works great, and only removes the rust, with no elbow grease involved.

Offline gunnut69

  • Moderators
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5005
cutting the rust
« Reply #6 on: June 11, 2003, 08:09:38 PM »
This sounds really good. I've never seen this done but it should work just great!!  That old high wall may get restored yet.. Thanks a bunch Waksupi!! I seem to be getting a run on fixing up the rusty and burned. The last brought in was a Westley Richards SxS. Beautiful old shotgun but badly burned and with all the rust you'd expect. The butstock is charcoal but the springs are still springs and the wonderful silver soldered wire twist barrels still ring like bells. I shall begin disassembly tomorrow and try the derusting process on the highwall. I keep all informed..the gunnut69
gunnut69--
The 2nd amendment to the constitution of the United States of America-
"A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed."

Offline John Y Cannuck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • A Real Regular
  • ****
  • Posts: 805
cutting the rust
« Reply #7 on: June 12, 2003, 12:01:47 AM »
Assuming you get it apart, are you concerned about the temper of the steel?
Maybe it's not a factor with a 38-55, but in an 1885, the round could be loaded to elephant busting power.
On the other hand, you could just send it to me....  :D
Canadian Liberal Gov't = elected Dictatorship

Offline gunnut69

  • Moderators
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5005
cutting the rust
« Reply #8 on: June 12, 2003, 09:11:35 PM »
Actually I'm just wanting to get it apart at the moment. The owner wants it restored but I don't know how far they are willing to go in the $$ department. I would bet we could deal with the hardening of the action, if it's not too badly damaged to restore.
gunnut69--
The 2nd amendment to the constitution of the United States of America-
"A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed."