SOME contender basics for Newbies. (learn from my mistakes)

[triehl27]

Ok I have been into the contender seen for going on 2 years now.  I have gotten most of my parts used off of Ebay. 

Things I have learned:
1.  I don't like the pacymeyer presentatin grips I have had 3 and none of allowed easy opening of the gun. In fact some actually jammed it closed.

2.  Not all iron sights are the same, there are different heights to the blade of both the front and rear on some.

3.  Pacmeyer forends work ok, but add quite a bit of weight when compared factory T/C forends in wood and composite.  I perfer the slimmer forend in both 10" and 14" the one with
the little angled nub on the end.  Available in both  wood and composite.

4.  Contender forend screws are 10-32.  You can get them with a hex head and never have to worry about stripping or damaging the screw head again.  Their cheap around .15$ get a few extra and a few in different lengths.  3/8, and 5/8 is what is stock in the 14" forend I believe.  You DON"T have to pay $5+ for replacement screws. I built a small kit for my range bag that has 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4" lengths for different configurations.

5. 23" barrels take a different forend then the 14", or 21".

6. 10" barrels CAN use the 14" forends with only the rear screw utilized.

7. A couple of washers between the forend and the barrel on the barrel screws will save ya $50+ over a bedding job.

8. Get a grip that fits and is comfortable!!! This adds a ton to the contender experience both in accuracy and comfort. 

9. G2 and Old style grips ARE NOT interchangeable.


OTHERS PLEASE FEEL FREE TO ADD MORE TO THIS LIST.  Let our experience help other so they can save the probally close to $100 I have spent on parts and things that don't fit, work and I just simple don't like in the end.

[jhalcott]

  DO NOT CRANK DOWN ON THE SCREWS IN THE FORE ARM! This CAN pull the escutcheon up out of the dove tail. When you remove the fore arm, the escutcheon will fall out and become lost! Once you have lost the temper (strength) in the dove tail,it's gone. It gets easier to warp it each time .

[skb2706]

Ok I have been into the contender seen for going on 2 years now.  I have gotten most of my parts used off of Ebay. 

Things I have learned:
1.  I don't like the pacymeyer presentatin grips I have had 3 and none of allowed easy opening of the gun. In fact some actually jammed it closed.

2.  Not all iron sights are the same, there are different heights to the blade of both the front and rear on some.

3.  Pacmeyer forends work ok, but add quite a bit of weight when compared factory T/C forends in wood and composite.  I perfer the slimmer forend in both 10" and 14" the one with
the little angled nub on the end.  Available in both  wood and composite.

4.  Contender forend screws are 10-32.  You can get them with a hex head and never have to worry about stripping or damaging the screw head again.  Their cheap around .15$ get a few extra and a few in different lengths.  3/8, and 5/8 is what is stock in the 14" forend I believe.  You DON"T have to pay $5+ for replacement screws. I built a small kit for my range bag that has 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4" lengths for different configurations.

5. 23" barrels take a different forend then the 14", or 21".

6. 10" barrels CAN use the 14" forends with only the rear screw utilized.

7. A couple of washers between the forend and the barrel on the barrel screws will save ya $50+ over a bedding job.

8. Get a grip that fits and is comfortable!!! This adds a ton to the contender experience both in accuracy and comfort. 

9. G2 and Old style grips ARE NOT interchangeable.


OTHERS PLEASE FEEL FREE TO ADD MORE TO THIS LIST.  Let our experience help other so they can save the probally close to $100 I have spent on parts and things that don't fit, work and I just simple don't like in the end.

10. Most grips for either style Contender are held on with assorted length 1/4" allen head machine screws, doesn't hurt to have spares.

11. If you don't have a spare hammer spring, get one. Also make a slave pin to install it with. Take a piece of 3/16" round rod and cut it to 3/8" length, clean up the burrs. It will be invaluable in installing the spring should the need arise....and it will.

12. I also keep several types of locking bolts on hand. If I buy a barrel that won't lock up correctly I can work out the problem.

13. If you have Pachmyer Presentation grips that don't work, won't let you unlock the gun. There is an easy fix with a dremel tool and a rotary burr. Takes five minutes.

14. 23" bull barrels make far better carbine set ups than tapered 21" barrels. The weight is much better balanced and not nearly as whippy and unstable.

15. It is nearly impossible to 'not have frame marks' on a blued barrel...unless of course you never put it on a frame.

16. The least amount of contact your foreend has to the barrel AND the frame the more consistently your gun will shoot.

17. Avoid getting any kind of lubricant/cleaner/solvent into the action parts of the gun unless you can remove that product before you use the gun.



I could go on...........

[Davemuzz]

I must be from the "other camp" because I absolutely love the Pachmayer Decelerator grips and forend for the handgun. I will say that if you don't do some "adjustment" to the forend and the grip that it may not fit the frame properly. However, I have found that if I spread the forend apart a bit, and even the grip where it meets the frame, I have no issues with the gun opening or closing easily. These grips are excellent when using barrels that give a heavier recoil. I highly recommend them.

Dave

[Keith L]

He is talking about the Presentation grips Dave.  I had a set on my first Contender and got rid of them soon after.  I like the Decelerators that I have on my original Contender, and can shoot my heavier recoiling barrels without gloves.

[Davemuzz]

He is talking about the Presentation grips Dave.  I had a set on my first Contender and got rid of them soon after.  I like the Decelerators that I have on my original Contender, and can shoot my heavier recoiling barrels without gloves.

Thanks Keith. I've never shot or "fooled" around with the presentation grips. I did some "research" and see that there is a difference. Again, thanks.

Dave

[skb2706]

In my limited experience with Pachmyer Presentation grips this is what I found. If you bought the grips prior to TC coming out with the 'easy open' Contender it is very likely the there is some interference between frame and grip. In fact Pachmyer used to send instructions with the older grips on how and where to remove material to eliminate this problem. I don't have the instructions any more but I still have my modified grip. The change is all internal and does not show from the outside.

[tmar04]

Do I understand you are not to use any type of lubricant on the inside of the gun?? Just clean it good with some sort of spray cleaner(like bore scrubber) wipe it off, then shoot?? It just seemed like to me everything that is inside should be lubricated. Am I doing the wrong thing? thanks.

[Davemuzz]

Do I understand you are not to use any type of lubricant on the inside of the gun?? Just clean it good with some sort of spray cleaner(like bore scrubber) wipe it off, then shoot?? It just seemed like to me everything that is inside should be lubricated. Am I doing the wrong thing? thanks.

That's right. Clean it out but don't lube anyting inside the T\C frame. Oils only help hold dirt and grit in the frame and will only help speed up wear and\or cause your gun to not properly function.

Dave

[sweetwyominghome]

Oil in the chamber can and will cause all sorts of problems, including extreme pressure. In these single shot guns, the case, as it expands upon firing, needs to "grip" the chamber walls -- and that's not possible when they're lubed. YOu can swab out the chamber with alcohol, acetone or whatever. Just make certain it is dry.

i

[kennisondan]

could this be made a sticky so others can see and contribute to it for the future ?
dk
oh, and ttt
dk

[Keith L]

Thanks.  I am slowly making up a FAQ post for the top of the forum, but haven't had the time to include all the possibilities.  I will make this a sticky for now, but that makes a bunch up there.  When I have the time I will cut and paste and add the good stuff to our FAQ.

Thanks again.

[Ladobe]

Do I understand you are not to use any type of lubricant on the inside of the gun?? Just clean it good with some sort of spray cleaner(like bore scrubber) wipe it off, then shoot?? It just seemed like to me everything that is inside should be lubricated. Am I doing the wrong thing? thanks.

If the frame is completely disassembled and cleaned, or flushed out heavily or soaked in those solutions sold for that purpose, you certainly do need to re-lubricate it.   A complete clean and re-lube is routinely done as part of Jim Henry's (Barstow, CA) famous Contender tune ups.   He uses different lubes depending on where it is used in the frame too.   He is the best Contender smith/mechanic there is, bar none, and you won't find a sweeter Contender frame than one he's worked his magic on.   

For just everyday cleaning after normal use there is no need to gunk up the frame with extra lube though.

[giturgun]

A super 14 with no break will bend and eventually break the hand grip screw. Has done it 2 times on mine.

[giturgun]

   Silly me forgot to put in the caliber 45--70  with the 350 and 405 gn bullets

[skb2706]

A super 14 with no break will bend and eventually break the hand grip screw. Has done it 2 times on mine.

I usually have just about any screw you would ever need for a Contender including grip screws, foreend screws, fillers and scope base screws. For the cost of mail I'd send ya what ya need. All lengths too.....

[panman]

When you clean the frame inside,and it clean,can you use one of the dry lubes,like the Rem dri lube?.thanks.pan.