Author Topic: Sponges for Cannons  (Read 946 times)

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Offline karlos59

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Sponges for Cannons
« on: February 11, 2007, 07:28:59 PM »
Does anbody have any ideas on how to make a sponge for a Cannon. I have a Mountain Howitzer in 2 inch and have using lambswool with velcro on the back to stick on the handle. It does the job but I would like something better if possible. Thanks Karl

Offline Evil Dog

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Re: Sponges for Cannons
« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2007, 02:25:08 AM »
Hey Karlos.... a trip to your local hardware store is in order.  Look at that foam insulation designed to go around water pipes.  A 3/4" or 1" dowel with a piece of that insulation glued on.  Then all you need is a "sock" made from an old towel to cover it.  The sock can be removed as needed for washing.
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Freedom is a well-armed lamb contesting that vote. - Benjamin Franklin (1759)

Offline Rickk

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Re: Sponges for Cannons
« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2007, 11:59:03 AM »
I made mine using synthetic sheepskin around a  wooden dowel, using "Barge Cement" as an adhesive. The glue has held up really well. There is a single copper nail in the end, helping the glue hold the folded-over sheepskin in place.

I am thinking that you want to use a 1.125 inch dowel for a 2 inch bore.


Offline reddog

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Re: Sponges for Cannons
« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2007, 02:58:01 AM »
I did the pipe foam thing too with A 1inch dowel but I use baby socks over the foam, it works quite well!
"Catch A cannonball, now take me down the line. My bag is sinkin' low and I do believe it's time."

Offline Cat Whisperer

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Re: Sponges for Cannons
« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2007, 05:18:39 AM »
For the 155mm self-propelled howitzers we had 8x8x4" sponges bolted onto a 4' x 1-1/4" diameter aluminum tube.  They worked.

It's good to see a little more elegance in design here.

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Offline radio2

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Re: Sponges for Cannons
« Reply #5 on: February 17, 2007, 03:27:01 PM »
So do you need a sponge for a mortar? If so just powder chamber or both barrel & chamber?

Offline Cat Whisperer

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Re: Sponges for Cannons
« Reply #6 on: February 17, 2007, 04:44:00 PM »
It all depends on whether or not you want to be safe.

Punch the vent with a pin, inspect, WAIT five minutes.  That generally does it.

HOWEVER, I have seen glowing embers of fuse at the bottom of my mortar after several minutes after firing.

USE the sponge.

(And if there's a downpour you have the ability of removing the 1/2 quart of water in the bottom of the tube and keep firng! - DD & I did that once and posted pictures of doing it.)

Tim K                 www.GBOCANNONS.COM
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Offline Rickk

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Re: Sponges for Cannons
« Reply #7 on: February 17, 2007, 05:01:33 PM »
In my pictures you will see three of them... one to wash and two to dry. That keeps the drying ones from getting too wet to do their job.

Offline radio2

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Re: Sponges for Cannons
« Reply #8 on: February 17, 2007, 05:12:44 PM »
So just a damp swab in the powder chamber should do it? Is that right?

Offline Cat Whisperer

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Re: Sponges for Cannons
« Reply #9 on: February 17, 2007, 05:33:49 PM »
Clear the vent hole (I do it the low-tech non-historically accurate way - phillips screwdriver that just fits the vent).
Sponge.
Wait.
Inspect.
Reload.
Tim K                 www.GBOCANNONS.COM
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Offline radio2

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Re: Sponges for Cannons
« Reply #10 on: February 17, 2007, 05:57:44 PM »
So what I have red the danger is the fuse leftover and not so much powder.

Offline Terry C.

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Re: Sponges for Cannons
« Reply #11 on: February 18, 2007, 02:25:12 AM »
I use paint roller heads. The kind with only one open end. They're cheap and durable, and when one gets too ratty I just throw it away.

Unlike the rammer and worm which are used for every loading/firing, the sponge I display with my cannon is just that, a display. It is, of course, fully functional and would work fine. But it's kept clean and dry.

The sponges that I actually use are attached to a shortened aluminum shotgun cleaning rod. Not very authentic, I know, but damn near indestructible and the heads can be swapped (screw off a wet one, screw on a dry one) in the field. And it breaks down small enough to fit in my tool bag. The wet/dirty heads can be put in a zip-lock bag until they can be washed.

I use the same rod for cleaning, but with different heads. The ones I use in the field fill the bore but aren't that tight. The ones I use for cleaning are very tight and will only fit in the bore when completely saturated with soapy water. I also have a sponge rubber head I use to oil the bore after cleaning.

How do I fit a paint roller head to an aluminum cleaning rod you ask? I twist a shotgun bore brush up inside it.

The smaller rollers I use all fit either a 12 or 20 gauge bronze cleaning brush, depending on what size tube they have inside. The brushes are very tight inside the roller tube and will stay put even through vigorous swabbing. But they can be twisted back out out and reused in another roller (at least a couple of times).

This won't work with larger bores that need a bigger roller, and even the bigger rollers only get so large. But there are a lot more options with the bigger guns. Tube socks, furry fabrics, carpet remnants, etc. I've found that making good tools that function correctly (and tolerate a little abuse) gets more difficult as the bore diameter decreases.