Shooting Original Military Mauser Rifles

[lgm270]

I'm think of having a shot out mil-supr '98 mauser re-barreled with a new barrel made to the contour of the original military barrel. I want to keep the rifle as near original as possible, at least in appearance.

I'm curious to know the experience of others in shooting military configured mausers complete with original stocks and metal work including hand guards, etc.  Are military configured '98's capable of the same accuracy as "sporterized" mausers?

My experience with most mil-surp mausers is that shot out barrels are a major obstacle to good accuracy.   The swedish mausers, on the contrary, have been extremely accurate for me in their original military configuration.  Swedish mauser bores appear brand new. 

 

[TribReady]

Mil vs sporterized will both shoot accurately. Sporters so often have scopes which obviously improves longer range shooting, but for bench shooting and all things being equal, yes the milsurp can compete with others.
A modern mfgr rifle will shoot pretty close from one rifle to the next. Milsurp rifles  can shoot great, but you just have to check each one out.  Some are better than others. Even with as many sporterized mausers out there, I'd still say the majority are shot in original military configuration.
Sometimes the front sight especially will have to be altered a bit, since these milsurps are designed for battlefield distances, but otherwise, the original stocks and metalwork are a rock solid platform for shooting.  Replacing with a newer, substitute barrel, can only improve on a battle- and time-tested rifle.

[lgm270]

Frankly, I prefer the original military configuration for most purposes.  An exception would be to convert a mil-surp mauser to a scout rifle configuration, but that is very different.  I note some  barrel mfgrs  will duplicate the original barrel contour for an additional $50-75.00.  You could have a replacement barrel to the original specs but it would leave the rifles appearance otherwise unaffected. Of course it would detract from the "collectibility" of the piece, but my experience is that shot out mausers generally are worth little monetarily because their overall condition reflects the amount of use involved in shooting out a barrel.  I have seen some mil-surp mausers with barrels that were virtually smooth bores.  They looked like bald tires. 

My only modifications would be to  modify the bolt for scope use and to drill & tap the receiver and possibly add a better trigger.   For me, the original mil-supr configuration with a 23.5" barrel seems much shorter than its actual length and is very comfortable and fast handling.  In addition, I like the strength and ruggedness of that configuration not to mention the wonderful controlled round feed of the traditional 98 mauser.  A shot out 7x57 could also be rebored to 8x57, or even 7x57 or 9.3x57 and  thus retain the original barrel, proof marks, sights and appearance. 

Ive always like the idea of a super tuned  mil-surp mauser with a match barrel, trigger but retaining its original somewhat lackluster finish and appearance.  It is really fun to show up with a seemingly battered relic and shoot better groups than the latest thousand dollar commercial show piece.

[Mikey]

IGM - you can purchase new (unused) mil-spec barrels for the 98s from places like Sarco, Samco, or Numerich Arms (Gunparts Corp) and have it installled to keep the original mil-spec configuration.  Most mil-surps with new, newer or good barrels often shoot as well as, if not better than, new sporters or unissued mil-surps. 

You could probably get a new, unused that is, mil-spec barrel complete with steps for about $75 or less from one of these places, and have a ball.  I think that if she shoots well enough without a scope you may wish to sporterize it further.  And you can turn a plain jane 98, complete with mil-spec stepped barrel, into a beautiful sporter.  There are different rear sights and bases set up like express sights (as with the Swede 98s) and beautifully ramped front sights and barrel bands made for those rifles that basically obscure the military look of the rifle. 

For example - my Husquavarna made M49 is a 98 sporter.  It is a straight M98 with sporter dressings - stock, rear sight and base, front sight and barrel band - otherwise the darn thing is just another M98 and it even had the military trigger in it.  I installed a Bold Trigger with safety, installed a bolt block when I removed the wing safety and d/t for a scope.  With both handloads and mil-spec ball she shoots one hole groups at 100 yds - my kind of rifle. 

As for the Swedish 96/38s in 6.5mm - the Swedes would rebarrel their rifles when the bores began to look like new US made sporters (lolol, but just about), which is why they always shoot so well.  HTH.  Mikey.

[lgm270]

Thanks for the info Mickey.  Merry Christmas.

[S.S.]

Mikey is absolutely correct about the Swedes ! I would put mine up against any current
U.S. manufactured rifle. And most other manufacturers for that matter. Even one of my old Turks
will group about as well as my Model 70 Winchester. Milsurp rifles are Kinda' like Women in one respect. Some of the really homely ones can be some of the best you will ever encounter!!!
They really "GOT IT" where it counts !   

[ibfestus]

A few years ago I bought a Turkish Mauser for around $50.  The bolt, the receiver, and the barrel all had different numbers and the old gun had ZERO collectors value.  After a thorough cleaning I was surprised the bore was shiney.  The bolt would not close on a no-go gauge.  A few rounds of milsurp 8MM prooved the $50 rifle would group into 4" at 100 yds with open sights and 60 year old eyes.

A few months later, I whacked the barrel from 29" back to a reasonable 24," got rid of the top wood, and cut the stock  back as well.  I removed the rear sight by heating with a propane torch.  Then I gave the rifle to a local gunsmith who bent the bolt and drilled and tapped the receiver for a Redfield mount.  Cost me about $75 as I recall.

I "refinished" the barrelled action and stock by painting with a high temp BBQ grill flat black paint.  I topped the whole thing with a old Weaver K-4 scope I bought at a local gunshop for $50 mounted on rings and a base from my "junk" basket.  I champhered the muzzle with a brass round headed screw chucked in my drill.  A "low scope" safety finished the project for a time. 

The next year I added an aftermarket trigger and a fiberglass sporter stock.  With my handloaded ammo (made from milsurp LC 30.06 brass) this gun will put 10 rounds into 1" at 100 yds.  My total cost around $300 and I would not trade it for a brand new Rem. 700 BDL.  FWIW/ymmv   

[Roudy]

For the last 20 years I have been informally collecting and shooting a few military bolt action rifles.  I've always been interested in the level of workmanship on the rifles and the differences between the workmanship of the various countries.  For instance, the Swiss rifles seem very precisly manufactured, as if they were made by "watchmakers"...and they shoot very well too.  On the other hand some of the Russian Mosins look like they were cut out of a chunk of steel with a hatchet...well almost.

I was surprised when I mounted a scope on one of the Mosins and reloaded for it, groups at 100 yards were as small as any rifle I have.  Although the Mosin looked rough, it really shoots well.  What I have may be the exception, but it does clarify to me that the proof is in the shooting.

Roudy

[jack19512]

I was surprised when I mounted a scope on one of the Mosins and reloaded for it, groups at 100 yards were as small as any rifle I have.  Although the Mosin looked rough, it really shoots well.  What I have may be the exception, but it does clarify to me that the proof is in the shooting.

Same here.  I have 4 Mosins and one of them is a M38.  I almost sold this rifle once because it shot so poorly with the ammo I was using at the time.  It averaged around 8 to 10 inch groups at 100 yards.  I started handloading for this rifle and now it is one of the most accurate rifles I own.  It will shoot with my Weatherby any day of the week.

[1911crazy]

Really what kind of accuracy do the modern gun manufacturers say is good for there new guns?  I have heard that if it shoots 2" groups is good for a brand new high priced modern gun.  That puts our older military stuff a step up from the brand new guns doesn't it.  I have also noticed that the untouched, orginal military guns using surplus or cheaper newer ammo will shoot under 2" groups with no problem and some will go 1 1/2" groups on a good day for me anyway with my 56 yo diabetic eyes.  Some of the mosins are still unissued and just need to be sighted in then your good to go.  I like to benchrest everything now just to see how good they can shoot.
I have 3 builds(military) that i haven't benchrested yet and i will shoot them soon.(7mm mauser, 8mm mauser and a 91/30 mosin all scoped)  I have to sight in my scoped sks with the mosin style mount too now it will hold the zero the scope is mounted rock solid.

Numrich gun parts has used surplus military barrels in good to excellent condition for around $40 to $50. I purchased a used 8mm barrel that was in excellent condition a while back for only $37.  When i installed it the headspace was good on the go gage and the bolt won't close on the no go gage so the head space is dead nuts.  The bore looks to be in new condition I guess they stripped these rifles for the parts/receivers.