Okay first i want you to take a sheet of paper, any kind. Run it between the stock and barrel, If possible. When it gets stuck, take note of the plastic touching the sides of the stock, mark those areas and take the barrel off the stock, use a file and grind those areas out, doesnt take much, but get it even. This will take maybe 15 minutes if you want to make sure you get it good. You dont want any material touching the barrel. Do this until you get up to the front barrel lug. Put barrel back on, and snug it down, Do not over tighten. Run the paper test again and this time it should go but it will have some resistence, but we'll take care of that later on.
Once you got that taken care of, Pull the stock back off. Buy some JB Weld. This next step MUST be done in order to keep accuracy. I used a small flat screw driver and spread the jb weld out as evenly as possible. Let it dry for 24 hours. You can also put a tiny bit on the front barrel lug area just to have some harder material up there. But you must jb weld the rear lug or else after so many shots, the lug itself will eat into the plastic and throw your shots all over. When you pull your stock im betting you'll see that little square inprinted into the stock, Fill that area first and then work your way outwards. I did the entire lug area to beef that area up. Do this and i guarantee that the accuracy will improve greatly. I was shooting some 240 grain flatnosed bullets in .44 sabots, couldnt do more than 3-4 inchs @ 100 yards, Took my stock off and found this, fixed it and it started shooting 1 1/4" groups @ 100 yards.
Heres another thing you will notice when you first pull your barrel off. When you see these shiney marks, the stock is pressing up against your barrel. This is bad and the first step i wrote up for you to do, will solve this problem.
And this pic below is some shims i made out of engine bearing shim, buy some at your local parts store. Use rubber cement to hold them in place. Just a little dab on all corners will hold them in place. You'll want 2 up front in the barrel lug pockets and only 1 in the rear lug area. "jb weld takes up room and requires only 1 shim"..
Do this work and you're going to have a hell of a rifle shooting 1" groups. Put a scope on it and you'll be shooting 1 hole 3 shot groups. I cant guarantee 1" groups, but if you do your part on working up loads, practicing your trigger pull, using the open sights properly and you're going to be shooting some excellent groups.
Now to help you on some loads, I'll write up some info below on loads i have used and have had great success with,
245 grain powerbelts -110- 120grains Loose pyrodex RS, CCI 209 primer. Sight 5" high @ 100 yards and it will be dead on at 200 yards, or close to dead on.
295 grain powerbelts- 120 grains loose pyrodex RS, CCI 209 primer, 7" high @ 100, 1" low at 200 yards.
My favorite load and best shooting load- 385 grain great plains bullet, 90 grains pyrodex RS, CCI 209 Primer, 1" high @ 100 yards, 6" low @ 150. Put the sight on the targets back at 150 yards and you'll have a dead animal when the smoke clears. Best group yet is 1" @ 100 yards.
I havnt had much practice with these bullets yet but they do load easier than the great plains bullets. TC Maxi hunters, 350 grain, 90 grains RS, cci primer, 1 1/2" high @ 100 yards. I never was able to shoot any further than 100 yards due to me running out and all the stores being out of the maxi hunters. These 2 bullets would be an excellent choice for elk, with the great plains bullet ranking higher in my book. After 14 shots withthe great plains bullets, i never had any hard bullets to load.
Upgrades ive added on the rifle that made a huge improvement " for me", truglow Ghost ring sights.
Some people may not agree with some of the things im telling you to do, Thats fine and all, but i actually own the rifle and know what needs to be done to shoot great groups with this rifle.
Follow my loads and everything else that needs to be done and you will never need another inline.
