If you've read the book the process is fairly simple. I take a piece of paper and hold it wrapped around the forearm and use a pencil to take a rubbing. Be ssure to include a couple of stationary point, front of bottom metal inletting, front sling stud hole, etc. and of course the top edges of the forearm. I trace over the pencil with a fine line pen to make the permanent marks. The paper outide the stock edges is removed and the edges brought together to create a centered fold which will be used as the centerline of the pattern. A pattern is then drawn on one half of the paper. after cleaning the pattern half and getting just right fold the pencil crawn pattern half with the checkering design along the centerline so that it faces or touches the blank half of the pattern. Place the folded pattern on a hard flat surface and firmly rub with a smallish rounded tool, I use the rear end of a SS table knife..wife is not aware of that, and lets keep it that way.. The graphite of the pencil marks will transfer to the blank paper and the entire pattern can be traced ith ink to stop ruboff. The masterlines or the lines you will begin the checkering process from are drawn at this time. They have to be straight and it will be your most difficult job to keep them that way as the travel around the forearm and its differing curves. A simple 4 panel job(one on each side of the foreamr and each side of the pistol grip) is easiest because there are fewer curves to manuever around.. Even if doing a 4 panel job the forearm panels should be done as described to keep their relative positions correct and I like the be certain the masterlines cross both panels. It lends the uniformity we're striving for. I have to stop now but if this helped we can continue with a description of how I do the grip panels.. Please note I don't claim this is the right way, it is however my way and works for me.. Others will likely have they're own way and I'm certain they work also.. You will have to choose..
