Number 1 Trigger

[mattparliament]

Hey guys, I'm sure this is a re-post and I apologize for that but the Google search function here isn't worth much.

I just bought another #1B in a 270.  It was a great find, a "collector" owned it and sold his entire collection to my local gun shop.  Serial number puts it in the year 1981, but it is absolutely mint!  I spoke with him and he shot a box of bullets through it and put it in the saf, it is beautiful.

Anyway, the trigger is quite heavy, If I remember correctly these older #1's the trigger adjustment was functional, how does it work?  I see the 2 set screws and I just need to know what the heck they do.  If anyone could direct me to some proper instructions on exactly what each screw does I would really appreciate it.  Thanks!

[Rangr44]

Ensure the rifle is empty, before attempting any trigger adjustments.

The lower, or rearmost, screw on the trigger face is the trigger spring adjustment screw - used to increase/decrease weight-of-pull down to a preset factory minimum (governed by spring pressure). It is tightened to increase the weight-of-pull.

The uppermost, or forward, screw on the trigger face is the trigger stop screw - used to adjust trigger over-travel. It is adjusted by tightening it, until the sear will not release the hammer when the trigger is pulled - then slowly backing off the screw while you maintain pressure on the trigger, until the hammer falls.
After the hammer falls, back it off another 1/4 turn, to allow clearance for the hammer.

[mattparliament]

Ranger~

Can't thank you enough for that information.  I really appreciate it.

Matt

[Fred M]

Matt.

The lower screw is the adjustment for the trigger return spring. It does not
lighten the trigger very much since it is a very small spring. Some of the older models have a sear adjustment on the inside of the stock, this is where you can adjust the sear engagement and lighten the trigger. The newer models don't have this screw nor does the #3.

By polishing the hammer notch removing all the tool marks I got my triggers down to 28 oz.To do this you have to dismantle the action and remove the hammer.

[mattparliament]

Thanks Fred and Ranger. I fiddled with it last night and Ranger's method got it the lightest possible that I've tried.  I'll have to take off the buttstock and see if that last screw is under there or not.  Hopefully "1981" is an "older" model

Matt

[Hairtrigger]

If it is the newer 2 screw model you can purchase a copy of the older 3 screw trigger for about $50. The trigger is made by Moyers

[mattparliament]

   took the buttstock off, only 2 screws....  However, it's amazing how coarse the steel is under there on all of those little parts.  If I can find a good diagram on disassembly I may take it apart and use some emery cloth to smooth things out a bit.  Hmmm, maybe the factory parts guide, we'll see.

Matt

[Brithunter]

I found that for polishing parts like this a small flat oil stone in Medium grade is good and I also have a slightly smaller one in Fine grade. I also use the oil stone and wrap 600 grit Wet and Dry paper round the stone and then use that.

[Rangr44]

JMO - But, be careful, when "polishing" Ruger internal cast parts with a stone - baby steps.

Castings are known to occasionally have an internal "void" space, which could be inadvertently exposed, in a bad position. 

[Fred M]

Rangr44
When stoning internal parts of the Ruger #1 action. You are not going to dig into the metal, you only remove tool marks and break the rough edges and polish a little. It takes a little time but it is an easy enough job. Have you ever
undertaken the upgrading of internal parts in the Ruger#1?

All important parts of investment castings are free of voids, frames and hammers in particular. I have never seen a void in Ruger castings, have you?
Voids are easy to detect with the proper equipment.

Critical parts of the actions are tested and inspected for faults. Ruger#1
actions are about as strong as any action made. Never heard of one ever coming
apart because of voids.

[Brithunter]

Ruger uses the Lost Wax casting system and if my understanding of the way it works is correct  the chances of voids is almost nil. I still happen to think that forgings are better than castings.

[Fred M]

Brithunter.
Perhaps a forging is stronger, I don't know. Alas if Ruger #1 were made with forgings the company would be long out of business beause very few people could afford such a firearm, like the Hagn which starts at over $13000.

I don't think the Hagn is that much better than the Ruger#1 when it comes to
serviceability. Yes I would love to have a Hagn. But I am quite happy with my
Rugers #1 and #3's. All of my #1's are extreamly accurate and so is the #3.

All my Rugers were bought used at reasonable prices from 600 to 725 Can. So far I heve not bought a new one, but when I get the 9.3x74R I have to pay full price.

[Rangr44]

  [Have you ever undertaken the upgrading of internal parts in the Ruger#1?]    Yes  

[I have never seen a void in Ruger castings, have you?]    Yes  - Pinpoint voids, but voids nontheless.

[Never heard of one ever coming apart because of voids.]   I never said the part could "come apart" - What I said was: An internal void "could" be EXPOSED (seen/opened)