Savage Bolts

[Survivor]

I own 2 savage bolt rifles. Both have a tough spot in the bolts motion. I'm not savvy with naming parts but I need some ideas. It's during the Up-Back motion when the bolt handle rolls past it's catch and cocks the firing pin before recycling the bolt and loading the next round. That point/catch will wear in time for a smoother motion BUT...I want some bolt ideas. For repeatability and faster follow ups I want to make some small adjustments to the bolt. As I begin to do more and more dry practice I wish my bolts were less "new".
THNX

[trotterlg]

That is most likely the point that the cocking ramp is "over cocking" the hammer.  The ramp machined into the bolt raises the hammer further than needed to cock it, it then lets the hammer down on the part of the tirgger that holds it back.  Even if the rifle is cocked, raising the bolt handle will get you this resistance as the hammer is raised higher than needed to cock it.  When a gunsmith "times" a savage bolt they minimise the over cocking amount and thus make the cocking easier.  You can do the same thing, but if you take too much off the ramp you can not cock the rifle and it will cost you a bolt body to fix.  Larry

[gunnut69]

perhaps it just needs a bit of wearing in?? Don't get out the moto tool! Just remove the trigger or hold it back. This will allow the cocking to take place and then the cocking pin to follow back down as the bolt handle is lowered. Doing this a few hundred times will burnish the cam slick as can be. By the way only a bit of lube when doing this! Afterwords clean thoroughly and lube with a high pressure lubricant such as a wheel bearing grease or choke tube lube. These lubes stay in place and withstand the high pressures without breaking down.. Remember though, only a bit is needed!

[Survivor]

Back on this again.  My rimfire savage responded great to this method /out any lube.  So far the 243 is not as responsive.  Uncocked, the upward bolt motion is awful!  Once cocked the bolt is smooth...up/down/up/down...but the gun is cocked!  THis tells me there are still bolt components that are course. 

What parts touch when the bolt is being lifted to cock the firing pin?  I need some lube for this one i think.  MAybe a good FAQ on bolt disassembly for a good cleaning after all of the rubbing.

[gunnut69]

The cocking cam is likely the problem on the savage center fire. I've attached a link to a parts blow up that should help some. Part number 8 the bolt body has a camming surface cut into the rear part. The cocking pin #30 is what bears against the cam. These 2 parts need a high pressure lubricant to ensure they film doesn't break down under the extreme load. It is where the burnishing will take place. It can be lubed without take down of the bolt. Still if you wish take down is not all that difficult. The savage website contains a manual that should be of help. I'll include a link to that site also.  To take down the bolt remove it from the action by raising the bolt handle and pulling it to the rear. Depress the bolt release at the right rear of the action while simultaneously pulling the trigger and remove the bolt from the receiver.  Unscrew the screw on the rear of the bolt(#25) and remove it and the cocking piece sleeve(#25). The bolt handle(#27) and the rear baffle (#28) can then also be slid to the rear and off the striker assembly. The cocking pin (#30) can then be withdrawn from the rear side of the bolt body. The firing pin assembly can then be with drawn. The cross pin (#33) that retains the locking lugs, front baffle and the friction washer can then be removed. This will allow the locking  lugs (#12) front baffle (#11) and friction washer(#9) to be removed also. Note how and where the friction washer is placed for re-assembly. The pin that retains the front of the bolt assembly is pierced by a hole the chamfered side of the hole is placed to the rear for re-assembly. Further take down is inadvisable unless something is broken. Clean and apply a bit of lube to the cocking pin and the cam surface on the rear of the bolt body. I use a little wheel bearing grease but 'Dri-Slide' or other dry film lube would be good choices also.. Good luck..

http://www.savagearms.com/downloads.htm
http://stevespages.com/ipb-savage-110.html

[Survivor]

GREAT ASSIST!!