Author Topic: Trigger for Swede 38 Mauser (Read 1012 times)

Carphunter · « **on:** June 02, 2003, 03:37:49 PM »

I've been looking at my options to lighten up my 12-lb trigger pull Swede.

I've looked at Timney and Huber triggers so far, but I'm wary of using them because they both require more inletting in the stock to make room. I really want to be able to revert the rifle to full stock configuration so I don't lose any value, and can shoot it in stock mode if I want.

I just found the Dayton Traister triggers at Brownells. It appears to be more of a drop in replacement than the other options, and would appear to require less (if any) wood removal from the stock. If anyone here has installed one of these...how much wood did you have to remove to get it in? Where did you have to remove it (front of sear, rear of sear, trigger area)?

I've searched the forums here and seen one mention of someone who installed one of these, and worried that the trigger could be pulled while safety was on...and the only thing left holding the striker was the safety. I know that Dayton's site says if this happens, don't use it...but I'm wondering how many people found this problem on installation.

Any other comments on the pros or cons of the Daytons would be much appreciated (i contacted their web site for info, but have received no reply).

Also, I've seen mention of Precise Metalsmithing and Canjar as other trigges...but I don't know if these are old references becuase I can't find any mentions of phone numbers or web sites for them anywhere.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #1 on:** June 02, 2003, 04:39:48 PM »

PME may be out of business and I didn't know they made triggers. Canjar most certainly does make triggers and is still in business. The small amount of inletting for an aftermarket trigger won't hurt the resale and Timney triggers are quite good. I have used the DaytonTraister and used to favor them a lot. The last 4-5 were terrible. I nearly sent them back but chose to rework them instead. They were junk... Most would not reset the sear and had burrs so bad they were non-functional on any level. Do yourself a favor and use the timney. They are most excellant for the money... I've installed many and have never had a problem. I even intend to use a Timney Featherweight Deluxe on a sporterized M96 Swede I'm building for my son!!

savageT · « **Reply #2 on:** June 03, 2003, 03:50:58 AM »

Quote from: Carphunter

I've been looking at my options to lighten up my 12-lb trigger pull Swede.

I've looked at Timney and Huber triggers so far, but I'm wary of using them because they both require more inletting in the stock to make room. I really want to be able to revert the rifle to full stock configuration so I don't lose any value, and can shoot it in stock mode if I want.

I just found the Dayton Traister triggers at Brownells. It appears to be more of a drop in replacement than the other options, and would appear to require less (if any) wood removal from the stock. If anyone here has installed one of these...how much wood did you have to remove to get it in? Where did you have to remove it (front of sear, rear of sear, trigger area)?

I've searched the forums here and seen one mention of someone who installed one of these, and worried that the trigger could be pulled while safety was on...and the only thing left holding the striker was the safety. I know that Dayton's site says if this happens, don't use it...but I'm wondering how many people found this problem on installation.

Any other comments on the pros or cons of the Daytons would be much appreciated (i contacted their web site for info, but have received no reply).

Also, I've seen mention of Precise Metalsmithing and Canjar as other trigges...but I don't know if these are old references becuase I can't find any mentions of phone numbers or web sites for them anywhere.

I don't know if I can offer you any new info that you don't have already. I also am looking for a replacement trigger for my M38 and Dayton was my choice....however, I called the Dayton number advertised and was told that there was stock to be removed to fit their trigger. I was also warned by my gunsmith to stay away from them??? The Huber Trigger is NOT for the Swedes so they are not an option at this time. Please let us know if you do get the Timney or find something that is a drop-in.

Jim

gunnut69 · « **Reply #3 on:** June 03, 2003, 08:22:56 AM »

I have installed many Timney triggers and have yet to find one taht was out of spec so bad it would not allow the sear to reset. It is possible with some of these old mausers that someone has mucked with the trigger/striker to the point that the safety no longer retracts the striker when it is applied. If that is the case the sear cannot reset and the rifle will fire when the safety is released(the trigger having been pulled while the safety was set). If this occurs it is easily renedied, simply relieve the striker sear a bit. You are looking for the striker to be withdrawn(pulled back) a bit when it is applied. That is why the safety is in effect a cam. Look at it's interface with the cocking piece. The safety when it is properly adjusted will let then striker down on to the trigger sear. If worried about the mauser safety failing, by the Timney with the side safety. It does have to have it's relief cut in the stock though. All in all the Timney trigger without the safety and the mauser safety is the right way to go. The Timney is as close to a drop in as your likely to find.

Carphunter · « **Reply #4 on:** June 03, 2003, 09:17:44 AM »

what did you hear about the huber's? I've seen the rah-rah review at surplus rifles, but not much else

I wasn't refering to the Timney having the problem with the sear/safety. I only read that about a Dayton

oh, where can I find out more about canjar triggers? anyone know their site address?

savageT · « **Reply #5 on:** June 03, 2003, 10:12:21 AM »

Carphunter,
On the Huber Triggers, I talked with Mr. Huber, and he thought at the time that his trigger would fit an M38 carbine....however, I'm still not sure that this would in fact fit. His is currently deesigned fo a 98 action and most if not all after market trigger groups list M98's apart from the M96/M38 Swedish Mauser groups. Good Luck. Try using a search engine like GOOGLE for Canjar Triggers. Here's what I find:

1. GunBroker.com Message Forums - Adjustments for the Canjar trigger
Adjustments for the Canjar triggerfather's Rem 581 with a model 788-1 Canjar trigger installed. After shooting overCanjar and see what they say.M.H. Canjar Co.6510 Raleigh St.Arvada, CO. 80003 http://forums.gunbroker.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=33472

Carphunter · « **Reply #6 on:** June 03, 2003, 11:29:22 AM »

thanks savage...I should have said I did find that forum post...being lazy I guess I just hoped someone knew of a web site.

I also talked to Mr. Huber. Same deal. (Although he only lives an hour or so away from me, so I considered going to his shop and doing the install there).

Think I'm going to wait until my gunsmith buddy can try and smooth the underside of my action (not touching sear engagement points or anything like that) and see where that gets me before whacking the wood.

waksupi · « **Reply #7 on:** June 03, 2003, 04:44:41 PM »

Something I do on mausers I want to keep original, is to shorten the trigger spring. The trigger assembly can be easily removed by driving out the pin. Observe how much spring is extra, and clip it to size, so there isn't so much tension. If you want it lighter, shorten until there is no pressure on the trigger, and then stretch the spring a bit until you have good engagement. You should be able to bring them down to the four pound neighborhood.