removing bluing from barrel?

[creekbear]

I was wondering if there is anyway to remove the bluing from a rifle barrel ,polish it to a stainless look ,then re-seal it without having to worry about corrosion? Also would really like to get into gunsmithing anyone have any books or video's they would recommend for a beginner ?

                                                                                                                                                Thanks,creekbear

[iiranger]

#1). They used to sell a "blue remover" that said on the bottle that it was pure nitric acid. This assumes you have a real "blue" and not some paint or other more modern coating process finish. That might resist acid. I thinned the blue, fortunately on a concealed part of the gun, with plain old "GUNK" grease remover... And if you get real desperate... "grit" will remove anything. Sandpaper. Rouge. Valve grinding compound. Emory cloth. Everyone will tell you that the "quality" of a "blue job" is determined by the skill of the person using the "buffing wheels" to polish the metal before blue is applied...

Rust prevention in non stainless is another story. HARD!. Steel compounds want to rust/ react with oxygen in air. [FYI all metals "oxidize." Other metals, like lead or aluminum, form a one layer, TIGHT SEALED, layer of oxidation that stops the process. Only iron based compounds like steel form a porous "oxidation" / "rust" that permits oxygen to get thru the layer to continue the process. That is why the shiny, new cast lead bullet is dull grey the next morning...]  Blueing is a form of controlled rusting. Oldest and most obvious is lots of oil/grease constantly re applied. Real pain. Then there are other organic compounds. Rosin from trees. Lame compared to more modern. There are clear paints. Brass was coated with shellac to keep it shiny, then lacquer.  I understand that todays auto products are finished, final coat(s) with a clear, plastic material. Stout finish, but a pain to refinish if scratched. Your call.

#2). If you think you want the hassles of "gun smithing" then visit brownells.com and start to decide on a speciality. Shotguns? Target rifles? Handguns?  FIRST, get the FFL (Federal Firearms License) application kit from ATF (Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms --if not in yellow pages or front of phone book, call FBI and ask. They work together... Without the paperwork, you could be found guilty of a felony and barred from every working on OR OWNING guns... ) There us much to learn. Apprenticing with a specialist in your chosen field is a good place to start. Basically, a "gunsmith" is a machinist/woodsmith (finish carpenter/cabinet maker) with an FFL.

If your passion still rages, "good luck."

Oh yes, most community colleges have courses in "machinist" and "wood working" mighty cheap. Might not let you work on guns but teach you the basics.

[james]

To remove the bluing from a Remington BDL, my brother just wrapped his rifle in a sleeping bag and threw it in the back seat with his dog.  The dog peed on it and when he took the gun out three days later the bluing was gone from the barrel. LOL.  He must like dogs better than me because he still lets the dog ride in the cab.

[gunnut69]

Don't know about dog pee but plain NavalJelly from the local WalMart will remove blue,,chop chop.. Just be sure to flush / neutralize it all after the process is complete. There are a lot of books one can learn from and the learning process never stops.. but a course of study at Colorados trade school(name escapes me) or other trade school will be the best start. I say start because one must continue learning as you go.. It's what makes the job soooooo much fun, and so hard.. The ATFE won't make your life any easier either but you're very wise to get and stay right with them.. Just remember,, there are NO federal misdemeanors..

[safetysheriff]

i have seen household vinegar take off some forms of bluing like it wasn't even there.

you can't stop corrosion and then put bluing over whatever it was that stopped the corrosion.....since bluing is a form of controlled rusting.     that's if you want a 'blued' color on the firearm.   otherwise you can prime and paint it.     

i'd put on the bluing that you like, let it dry, and polish it with a smoothing agent like a very mild steel wool.   repeat the bluing/smoothing several times, and then coat with a moly-containing grease for about two weeks.    that will etch its way into the bluing/metal and provide a lot of protection.    molybdenum disulfide is a great ingredient in automotive grease that you can get cheaply in one of the Valvoline automotive greases compounded for 'extreme pressure' applications.

ss'   

[1sourdough]

 I got some 'rust & blueing remover' from Brownells that works pretty good. It takes the blueing off with just a little wiping down. A little goes a long way since they have you dilute it with 50% water to use.