Best way to repair cracked wood stock?

[demented]

I have an old Iver Johnson single shot 12ga. that has a, for now, crack in the stock where its inletted to fit the receiver.  Without chancing breaking it further, I can only open the crack about 1/16".  Do I try to force glue into the small crack and hope I get enough in to hold or do I go ahead, finish breaking it so I can be sure to get plenty of glue on both sides of the wood?  Also, a tip on what type of glue works best will be appreciated!  Thanks in advance!

[John Traveler]

The repair method depends on the age and severity of the crack.  If it is old and oil soaked, or extends more than one or two inches into the pistol grip, then YES, breaking it cleanly and degreasing is required.  Clean the fresh break using a degreaser like trisodium phosphate and hot water, followed with clear hot water and acetone.  Dry at least overnight.  The best adhesive is Brownell's Accraglas epoxy resin (not the gel).   Clamp together using large rubber bands or padded C clamp.

If the crack is less than two inches long, fresh and free of oil, you simply dribble Accrasglas resin onto the crack, and push it in using a toothpick.  Clamp and hold overnight as before.

After the expox dries, use a sharp knife to scrape off the excess resin, sand, and refinish.

[trotterlg]

It's not an Iver Johnson, but this was my solution.  I drilled and put in the dowls with wood glue leaving the crack relaxed.  Then after every thing was dry I filled the crack with epoxy and sanded every thing off.  It has held for almost 20 years now.  Larry

[gunnut69]

To further JT's comments I have found that Devcon 5-ton epoxy is nearly as good as AcraGlass and a lot easier to mix/use. After prying the crack open with home made wedges made from large nails, dribble the glue into the crack, then blow it to the back and ends of the crack with compressed air. Be careful to avoid getting the epoxy in your eyes or on your skin. It can cause irritation although I've never encountered any problems. You may also need wood blocks or forms to hold the various areas of the stock in alignment until the glue sets. I like the surgical tubing as a clamping device and a little waxing of the tubing will keep the glue from sticking to it. Epoxies destroy finishes but masking tape can be used to protect the finish, allowing only a thin area surrounding the cracks exterior to be affected by the glue. In most cases of lineal cracking re-enforcement with dowels and so forth is unnecessary.  If the crack crosses the recoil thrust perpendicularly do we need resort to pins/dowels. Cleanliness is paramount is getting adhesion.. DO NOT use  glues such 'Gorilla' glue. They react with moisture to foam and fill-in missing wood splinters but they will also force the crack open exacerbating the problem. Epoxy's can be colored using the same die stuffs used for AcraGlass to fill missing wood voids. Mixing with wood dust can also create a fillers that works well for voids.
Whoops! Forgot to add that wax and waxed paper should be used to keep filler blocks and clamps from adhering where not desired.

[Rangr44]

[Mixing with wood dust can also create a fillers that works well for voids. ]


B 4 you glue or epoxy anything, drill a small hole in the butt face, under the buttplate, to obtain a little sawdust of original stock wood & mix some into the last part of the glue/epoxy - the part that will later show, near the stock surface.
It will help the repair disappear.

[trotterlg]

Remember, that stock cracked for a reason.  Unless your horse fell on the rifle, it is likely that as the wood dried it built up stresses that were finally relieved when the stock cracked.  Putting glue in the crack and then clamping it back together just puts the stress back in.  Just leave it as it is, the stress has been relieved.  If you can, pin the ends of the crack to keep it from traveling and fill it with filler or glue.  If you need it to be pretty buy a new stock.  Larry