Author Topic: Pimp my Stevens 200 (Read 2935 times)

smittty · « **on:** October 06, 2007, 07:05:17 AM »

I bought one of these because the price was so low I couldn't resist and I'm planning on modifying it. I haven't decided what I'm going to do to it but the stock will or sure get a paint job. I like the look of some of the sniper rifles I've seen and might even paint the entire thing. I'm open to suggestions and your ideas.

If anyone has one of these that they've "pimped" I love to hear about your modifications and some pics would be great.

Thanks,Smitty

LHitchcox · « **Reply #1 on:** October 06, 2007, 08:23:40 AM »

If I weren't left handed, I would have a couple of these by now. I think the frist step would be a trigger or trigger job. The factory trigger seems to be 5-7 #s or more. My father in law has one in .223 and had a trigger job done before he ever fired it. Sharpshooter Supply, Rifle Basix, and Timney all have replacement triggers. A lot of guys buy stocks too, but I believe I would camo the factory stock instead.

Leon

~Ace~ · « **Reply #2 on:** October 06, 2007, 09:17:34 AM »

The Factory trigger can be adjusted to OK weight, but has lots of creep.... SSS or Rifle Basix is the way to go

The stock is OK for a beat around gun with decent accuracy, but a B&C Duramax Factory Shaped ($94) or Medalist Tactical ($200) ... or a Stockade are the way to go if you want to take it to the next level.

GOOD Base / Rings and optics will allow you to get the most of it, as you can expect Very good accuracy. I like the Warne Bases and of course, Leupold Glass

smittty · « **Reply #3 on:** October 06, 2007, 10:02:15 AM »

Is that $94 B&C stock for the regular barrel and were did you see it at that price? I like their od green with spider web...looks "sniperish" to me.

Has anybody shortened the barrel on one of these, how did that affect the recoil? Does the shortening of a barrel make it more stiff and as a result, more accurate?

Mine is a 30-06 and I will probably never shoot past 300 yards with it. That's the farthest target at our rifle range and I don't think I would ever shoot a deer beyond that distance. I know that shortening a barrel results in loss of some velocity and energy but for a 300 yard max rifle, it would be insignificant to me especially.

Smitty

~Ace~ · « **Reply #4 on:** October 06, 2007, 11:29:09 AM »

You can get the Duramax in plain Black Here For $90.95 they also have other colors for a lil more.

Or you can get the Medalist Tactical Here For $201.00

Aside from minimal loss on velocity, more muzze blast, and it maybe liking faster powders, as long as a Good crown job is done, shortening it should be no problem.

ctrout · « **Reply #5 on:** October 06, 2007, 12:16:29 PM »

There isn't a whole lot that can't or hasn't been done to these rifles. There is a whole web community dedicated to the "pimping out" of Savage 10/110 and Stevens 200 rifles (they are essentially the same thing). Go to www.savageshooters.com and drool away. Lots of help there too. I just finished making mine into a 338-06 and did 100% of the work myself with the only special tool required being a $28 barrel nut wrench from Wheeler engineering.

LaOtto222 · « **Reply #6 on:** October 07, 2007, 02:08:56 AM »

Here is a couple of Stevens 200's that I have "pimped" out. While a lot more expensive than a regular 200, it is still much cheaper than a "custom". I have converted them both to single shots with the addition of a single shot tray. This makes them very smooth feeding. Enjoy

This is a 223. It has a Boyd's laminated stock, A&B SS fluted 24" barrel with 1 - 14" twist, Rifle Basix trigger, and I added a SS bolt handle, trigger guard + SS recoil lug. I have shot into .25 MOA on occasion. Shoots under .5 MOA regularly.

Here is a target I shot last spring with the 223 - no wind

This is a 221 FireBall. The stock was sanded down completely (no parting lines what so ever) and has several coats of Krylon Fusion paint. It also has the SS bolt handle, trigger guard + SS recoil lug. The Barrel was a 24" A&B with 1 - 14" twist. I had the barrel trimmed to 18". It shoots under .5 MOA on occasion, but I think it will do it on a regular basis with a little more load development.

chavist93 · « **Reply #7 on:** October 07, 2007, 02:36:52 PM »

I wanted a "beater" deer rifle. Something that I didnt care if it got beat up. I bought a new stevens 200 in 25-06, a 4.75x40 weaver grand slam, and weaver style base and warne maxima rings. I sanded the mold lines off the stock and painted it camo. I have less than $375 in everything and I am extremely happy with it for what it is. One thing im going to add is a different recoil pad.

smittty · « **Reply #8 on:** October 07, 2007, 08:54:20 PM »

chavist, I think mine will get the same treatment to start. Has the Krylon Fusion paint been durable?

I ordered a 1-piece base and I already have a V3 with Leupold QD rings and a 10x Super Sniper with Leupold QD rings. The V3 will be for hunting and the SS for fun at the range. I've also thought more about shortening the barrel to 18.5" and I'm going for it!

Still have a few more days before I can bring it home and then I'll start the "pimping".

chavist93 · « **Reply #9 on:** October 08, 2007, 01:35:21 PM »

Smitty, it's actually not fusion paint. I think it was made my krylon though. It was on the end of the paint isle at wally world, they had 5-6 different camo colors. I did the camo colors then very lightly wet sanded it to smooth the pain out, it goes on kind of rough. Then I used a krylon satin clear to protect. I cant tell you how long it will last because its only been on for about a month. So far it seems like it will hold up pretty well thanks to the clear.

smittty · « **Reply #10 on:** October 08, 2007, 06:45:06 PM »

I think your camo job looks pretty good btw.

I checked my shed and I already have some Krylon Fusion in OD and black left over from a wood stock I did a while ago. I bought a beige today. I think I will start with the beige and OD and finish with black over some branches with leaves for the pattern. I used to camo my archery stuff like this. I was thinking about trying a digital pattern but I think I will get bored of it quickly.

I need to buy a can of spray foam to fill the buttstock...another $10.

This is going to be fun!

Smitty

chavist93 · « **Reply #11 on:** October 09, 2007, 02:44:44 PM »

Thanks Smitty, that was the first time ive camo painted anythin. I just took a leaf and started going crazy with it. I think the clear is going to be the key to the longevity of it. What's the purpose of the spray foam in the buttstock? Keep it from flexing?

smittty · « **Reply #12 on:** October 10, 2007, 07:25:26 PM »

I don't know how flexible the stock is but I think the foam will give it just a little more heft and eliminate that hollow sound. If the front end of the stock has some hollow sections I would probably fill those too.

The foam must give it some structural value. There is a building product call SIPS or Structural Insulated Panels, which are panels made of two layers of plywood that sandwich a foam core and they are "structural".

There are two types of spray foam in a can, one fills a void but won't expand with much force, the other expands with enough force to warp door and window frames...don't use this one, use the mild expanding foam. Also, be careful using this foam because it sticks to everything and doesn't come off. It runs so don't tip the stock down. It may also spill over the end if you use too much. I recommend masking off the outside of the stock to protect it and use a ground sheet to protect your floor.

I pick up my Stevens up on Saturday and will work on the stock this weekend.

Smitty

wsmitty01 · « **Reply #13 on:** October 11, 2007, 10:30:08 AM »

I've got 2 of them (7mm-08 wife,, 300 Win Mag mine),,,both painted black fusion,,the 300 win mag knocked the dog doo-doo out of my bad shoulder so I put a 2lb soft diving weight in the stock and a limbsaver recoil pad on. Filled the for-end with epoxy, bedded the recoli lug,,put on another swivel for a bi-pod,,bought a Kartel cheekpiece, EGW 25 MOA mounts,,new Simmons 4-21X42 Master Pro series Mil Dot Target turret scope on both of them. First day out with rifle, JB bore pasted the crap out of the barrel during break-in and sighted in at 200 yds. At the end of the day (wife's first day shooting high power rifle) she was popping the 12" gong at 585 yards after I dialed the elevation in, consistently with 140 grain FACTORY Federal Fusion ammunition with the 7mm-08. The 2 rifles are heavie, mine a lot (needed) more solid forend (needed) and don't look like tupperware (needed)!! Look as good as any high end tactical guns out there and both will propably outshoot most of them. My 300 is shooting about an inch at 200 yards with Factory Federal Fusion 180 grain. The Fusion is the most accurate factory hunting ammunition I have ever shot. Getting ready to buy another one in 308 just to make a dedicated F-class T/R rifle out of,,,,now that one will REALLY be pimped out!!!

wsmitty01 · « **Reply #14 on:** October 11, 2007, 12:29:04 PM »

Here are my 2 Stevens 200.

smittty · « **Reply #15 on:** October 13, 2007, 05:00:38 PM »

Well, the paint is still drying on my new model 200. I sanded the entire stock so it's free of all mold lines. I also attempted to fill the hollow stock with spray foam and realized I would need to do it in layers because the stuff needs air to work. I decided to not foam it because that would take all day. I might do it later or find something else to fill it with that can be removed.

I'm thinking of assembling some light weight survival kit items to stuff in a zip lock bag and stuff in the buttstock....survival blanket, fishing hooks and line, fire starter, first aid kit, etc.

I should get my scope base on Monday or Tuesday. After I bore sight the scope I will cut the barrel down to 18.5".

So far I think the paint job looks good. The directions say it needs 7 days curing time for it to reach it's maximum chip resistance so I won't assemble it until next Saturday.

Project "Pimp My Stevens" is coming together soon!

Smitty

~Ace~ · « **Reply #16 on:** October 13, 2007, 05:32:40 PM »

Couple of my Stevens

The .243 in front is wearing a B&C Medalist stock, Leupold Mark4 4.5-14 X 50 M1 Tactical in Burris Xtreme Tactical Rings and Warne base.

The .223 in the back a painted factory stock and Tasco $:-\$

LaOtto222 · « **Reply #17 on:** October 14, 2007, 12:32:26 AM »

ACE- I like your 243. Is the 243 the stock barrel and what is the throat like...short or long.

The Krylon Fusion paint is great stuff, but as smitty noted, it takes a week for it to set up chip free. Do not push it. I did, then I had to go back over it.

For every body's info - Sharp Shooter Supply has many Stevens/Savage accessories. That is where I got my bolt handles, recoil lugs and trigger guards. You can get stocks, triggers there also. After you refinish the stock or replace and add these extras, The 200 does not look like a cheap gun any more, of course it costs a little more, but it makes a nice rifle.

~Ace~ · « **Reply #18 on:** October 14, 2007, 04:46:05 AM »

Factory Barrel... my intentions were to replace it, but it sends 75 grain V-Max into one silly little hole.. I'm Not replacing that

The .243 has a shallow throat, or at least compared to what I'm used to. I'd have to walk down to get the numbers, but the 75's "Look right" and the 100 grain Interlocks are set pretty deep with them .010 off the lands.

The .223 has a deeper throat, I have to set the 55 grain V-Max out there a ways to get them close, but 69 grain SMK's are just right, and it shoots both as good as I can with the cheap scope.

LaOtto222 · « **Reply #19 on:** October 14, 2007, 06:59:13 AM »

Thank you for your reply Ace. I would not replace any barrel that shoots that well.

I am thinking of a 22-250 or a 243 for some longer range shooting. I have not decided which direction to go yet with the cartridge or gun yet. I want a gun that weighs 6 pounds with scope and can shoot 5 under 2" at 500 yards.

My 223 (factory barrel) can seat a 60 grain V-Max to the lands with the base of the bullet about even with the base of the neck. I can't do that with any 55 grain bullet I have tried yet. I have not done a lot of load development yet, the lighter the bullet, the better it shoots. The best loads I have found so far are with the 40 V-Max. I started with the 60 grain and 55 grain bullets. I tried 4 different 55 grain bullets. None of them were a V-Max. I found all of the 55's shot better than the 60 V-Max. Next time out I shot 2 different 50's and 2 different 55's. The 50's shot better than the 55's. The next time out I shot a 40 V-Max and 2 different 50's, the 40 V-Max shot better than the 50's. I tried some Barnes 36 grain grenades, but they did not do quite as well as the 40 V-Max, but better than the 50's. I have recently bought some H4895, Varget, and Benchmark to see if the 60 V-Max will shoot better. I would really like to get the 60's to shoot well, but if it doesn't it doesn't. The 40's will work. With out further load development, I am in the .75" range with it. Thinking of trying the 60 V-Max in my Handi Ultra 223 with the slower burning powders mentioned above.

The A&B heavy (1-14" twist) SS Fluted 223 barrel has a normal throat (some where around .1"). I can seat 50 grain bullets easily into the lands with enough of the bullet left in the neck. It shoots best with a 50 V-Max and a heavy charge of N133. This one gets down under .25" on occasion and under .5" all of the time as long as I do my part and the wind does not get too heavy. See the target posted above.

~Ace~ · « **Reply #20 on:** October 14, 2007, 07:15:06 AM »

I think you will like the VARGET with the Heavier than 55's It works well with the 69 grain SMK's I have not tried anything lighter than the 55 grain V-Max and SXSP's (IMR 4895) I'll have to get a few 40's to try.