Need help on shotgun components. Urgent.

[ncsurveyor]

I received a double barrel shotgun muzzleloader percussion cap style free!

After visual inspection and various efforts I began restoring it for use.  I have hand made nipples to fit #11 caps, and done a lot of cleaning.  Will need to build a stock later, but only after I verify the gun works safely.

I have some FFg and #6 shot but I need some ideas on wads in order to proof fire the gun (safely and remotely of course)

What can I use to serve this purpose as opposed to buying a bunch of wadding.  I don't know the exact gauge so I don't want to commit to a bunch of supplies that may be wasted because of their size or because the gun fails.

Whose got some ideas???

Thanks,

Jeff

[Sir Charles deMoutonBlack]

Measure the muzzle and select a standard punch that is the same or a bit larger.  If it is a 12 gauge (.73) then a 3/4" punch will be a tight fit as it punches out 11 gauge wads. (about .777")   5/8" is good for 20 ga.  (.62)

Find hard card material, like family pack cereal boxes or beer cases.  They are about 1/16"  (.060)  Beer mats from taverns are another source of card material.  Waxed paper milk cartons make excellent over shot cards to top it off.  Pulp egg cartons, or 1/8" cork gasket material from an auto supply house can be stacked up for cushion wadding.  I've even used a 4" square of news paper, wadded up, for a cushion wad.  Sometimes a plastic wad will work but might leave streaks of plastic in the bore.  That can be removed with a brush and your favorite cleaner.

If you want to get fancy  Dixie Gun Works(DGW)or Track of the Wolf(TOTW) can sell you a proper punch for the specific gauge.  Wadding is for sale at several places.  Start with DGW or TOTW.

Start with a moderate amount of shot  (12 ga. - 1 to 1 1/8 oz;  20 ga.  7/8 oz) and the same VOLUME of powder OR LESS.

[ncsurveyor]

Thanks for the help, Sir.

Looks like were dealing with something between 11 and 12 (0.75 was what it mic'd at if I recall) but I'll check it again when I get home.

My immediate goal is just to proof the gun, so I'll mic the barrel in several places, load her up and touch it off, then see if the barrel was compromised any.  then repeat with number two.

Once I know she's safe, then I'll get fancy with the equipment and supplies.

By far, this is the most excited I've been with regards to "new gun-itis"  even if it is older than Moses.

[captchee]

Couple things .
1) if this is an original with twist or Damascus barrels  I would first  before  you  fire it , check for  pitting in the bore . Simply run a bore light down the barrels .
2) if the bores look good with only minor pitting , I would then  ring the barrels . To check the solder joint . On old  originals the solder is acidic and can allow the  barrels to corrode under the center rib and thus cause the joint to be weak without being visible. To ring the barrels simply hang the barrels with a string .  While not touching them , use a metal object and lightly  hit the barrels . If the joint is good , they will ring  with a nice high pitched ring just like a tuning fork will .
 If the barrels buzz dont fire it . The  center ribs will need to  be removed . The barrels cleaned and the ribs soldered back on  and the barrels re regulated
( that’s if there is no damage under the ribs .)

3) you say you have made your own nipples.
 Be careful doing this. While it can be done  and done safely you need to be wear that  a nipple isn’t just to hold the cap .  It has to be able to withstand back pressure  as well as resist  the gas cutting that  even a #11 cap can produce  over time . To big of a flash hole  or to soft of a material  can cause  a problem  that  can get you hurt.
I would recommend re taping the holes to  accept  a production nipple . Its not hard to do . The nipple come in a lot of sizes  and are readily available   .

4) wading ‘cushions and cards ,can be made from a number of things  . I use old horse hair  or felt carpet padding and punch my one as  the last posted described . For  a quick wad  hornets  or wasp nest works great for that . Just get rid of the hornets and wasps  first . This can consist of  a chunk of the comb itself or  in the case   ball hornets the out side paper that surrounds the comb .
 For over the shot cards I  use regular poster paper . Its thick and for a couple bucks you can punch out  10 bucks worth  very quickly .

 With felt or horse hair cushions I  soak them in  either  bees wax OR  and I actually like  toilet  ring wax better  I melt the toilet ring was , add a little Windex to the mix and then add my cushions..
 The cushions absorb the wax. Windex mix and load very easy  even in a chocked tube .
 The wax also keeps the  wad from  catching on fire as it stays soft unlike bees wax which becomes very hard when cool . They do get alittle messy when its warm outside  unlike bees wax but  I can live with that .

5)   . Get some cannon fuse . Its readily available either by order  or  at your local farm supply who would carry or sell gopher bombs .
  You can cut this to length so as  to provide you a given amount of time to safely get behind cover  OR in the case of  the fuse used on gopher bombs its already about 6 inches ling which ill give you about 30 to 45 second to get away  to safety.
 Also don’t forget to place something  against the  breach section  like a log . Most times I have found that when barrels fail , the fail  by blowing the breech plug  or they  the barrels fail just forward of the breech . The log will   keep the breaches for ending up where you don’t want them to .
6) go down and get a lymans BP load book if you don’t already  have one . If you don’t have access to one , just ask here and we will  post their recommended charges for your  bore

7)  Double charging a set of barrels with the idea of proofing them, is not assurance that the barrels are safe  . It only means that the barrels held that one charge .
 It can  result in damage that you cant see and  may only show itself down the road .
True proofing includes a lot of calculations and measurements before and after a barrel is fired . It also includes  know what material the barrels are made of , that materials  characteristics as well as resilience  .
 only then is the barrels considered proofed for a given charge

Lastly and im sure you already know this , SAFTY is the utmost here Especially if these are old original barrels . If in “doubt”   you will get more enjoyment for that SXS hanging from the wall  then  a destroyed set of  barrels .
 Making a new set of barrels is not that hard  using modern cartridge barrels .
I know  I have made more then a few  and destroyed my share of original barrels

[ncsurveyor]

Captchee
1) Twist.  checked for pitting, minor at muzzle on one barrel, rest of the barrel is in good shape.

2) Barrels were rung.  Sounds like a church bell.  No buzz, no rattle.  Just harmony.

3) Holes were retapped at 5/16-18, but the original holes were tapered.  The top 1/8th inch the threads will not engage and it is hard to find nipples that are longer.  Stainless 5/16 threaded rods were used, with a 3/64ths hole drilled longways through them (Not an easy task).  The end was machined down to accept a nipple.  Then I placed the nipple in a vice and put caps on it and fired it repeatedly, ensuring good discharge from the opposite end.  I have not tested a back pressure scenario as of yet, but as long as the threads are good in both the gun and nipple I expect it will be OK, at least no less effective than a factory bronze nipple.  There will be multiple remote firings before I shoulder it live, and lots of measurements before that, to check for wear.  I also intend on affixing a modified nut for a shoulder on the nipple.

A test box has been designed that my father and I are building to contain the gun for remote firing.  Plans are to mic the barrels at regular intervals and to check them after every shot as well as the nipple holes (we surveyors are anal about numbers).

In all likelihood, I would investigate building one in the future out of contemporary materials, but as of right now, my Dad (ex corp of engineers) is retired and likes to tinker, and I live by the quest.  This is my current Holy Grail.

[Sir Charles deMoutonBlack]

I like CAPTCHEE's post;  I think I would go out and get a modern made gun from Dixie or Track to use on a frequent basis.  Get the old girl talkin' if you will, but retire her, IMHO.

Didn't Davey Crockett try surveying?

[captchee]

dont get me wrong here restoring and then using an original piece is  very rewarding . I have a number of Damascus , twist and laminated barrels that I shoot often .

 What I am saying is one must be careful and watch for  certain issues . Nothing  in the world last forever . Built into everything is a self destruct date and that includes us . While we can prolong that date , push it back , it will always be there. For some that date comes and things just stop working  for others  the end doesn’t come so gently.

  ncsurveyor
 Sounds like you are taking your time .  A twist barrel with shinny bores is indeed a rare thing  post some photos when you have her finished   

[ncsurveyor]

You both are hitting the right track here.

Some may call it insane, Lord knows my wife does.

Goes back to the Visa commercials.

miscellaneous parts   $0
powder and caps      $0  (I have some leftover from other, er, projects)
wads, shot, cards      $0  (improvised)
wood for stock         $0
hundreds of man hours rebuilding a stock & nipples, cleaning barrels, and parts, refinishing old shotgun   $0

Knocking over one just one rabbit, than hanging "Granny Clampett" on the wall - PRICELESS.




I think Davey tried surveying, one of the few professions where you get paid to walk in the woods.

Once she's put together, I'll photo her up.

[ncsurveyor]

My goal is to check what she can do this weekend.  I got all the material lined up.

The only hold up may be the weather, and given our drought situation, I'm willing to stay inside and count my blessings if the rain don't quit.

Will let you all know Monday.

Thanks again,

Jeff