Mauser question....

[Blucollar]

I need help finding out exactly what model mauser I have.
I know its older military, the stock has been somewhat sporterized but still the original.
I might wind up changing barrels at some point and also handloading.
Just would like to know as much as possible about this rifle before doing either.

[Blucollar]

Should have mentioned I do know its a 7x57.

[John Traveler]

Describe all the markings on your mauser.  Receiver ring, left and right sides of receiver, rear sight markings.

Is the receiver ring slightly larger in diameter than the rest of the action body, or is it the same width all the way from barrel to rear of receiver?

Does the bolt have a third "safety lug" near the bolt handle in addition to the two primary locking lugs at the front?

Does it cock on opening or closing of the bolt?

How do you know it is 7x57 caliber?

Several models of 7x57 mauser were used by many countries.  To narrow down the possibilities you have to give us more information.

[Blucollar]

1) The markings are a) a crown stamped on top of the reciever
                             
                            b) FAB_T__  DE  ARMAS
                                   _VIELO
                                          2
                                      This is all I can make out, it has been drilled and tapped for scope mounts.
                             c) Reciever ring slightly smaller than reciever.
                             d) not sure about the third lug, but it does cock when closing the bolt.

                              e) was bought to be a 7x57 and have fired factory ammo in it, thats all I have to go on, nothing on the rifle says 7x57.

[John Traveler]

I can positively identify your surplus mauser as a Spanish made model 1893 or 1916 7x57 bolt action.

The cock-on-closing bolt eliminates the model 1898 mauser.

If it's a full length (29") barrel, it's an 1893 rifle.

If the barrel is original and not cut down (22") it's an M1916 carbine or short rifle.

The receiver ring markings are: OVIEDO FABRICA DE ARMAS.  Oviedo was a Spanish national arms factory.

You may want to be very careful about shooting that rifle.  The M1893/m1916 actions are not as strong or as safe as the later 1898 actions.  They do not handle gas leakage as well, and lack the third safety lug in case of catastrophic locking lug failure.

Most importantly, make SURE that the caliber is correctly identified.  The original caliber was 7x57, but many were rebarreled and converted to 7.62x51 NATO (.308 Winchester) caliber.  The problem is that this action is marginally safe when used in 7.62 caliber.

In it's original caliber, it is strong enough for factory or factory equivalent 7x57 hand loads.

I would have a qualified gunsmith check it for proper headspace.  The surplus Spanish Oviedo rifles are infamous for having mismatched bolts and excessive headspace problems.

HTH
John

[John Traveler]

The bottom line on the receiver ring is the year of manufacture.  Thus, your rifle was made in 1902, or 1912, or 1922, etc.

Since you have fired it already, how do the fired cases look?  No case head separations?  Normal looking primers?  No notable case head expansion?

It's a good rifle.  My first rifle was an M1916 Oviedo short rifle, and I killed my first deer with it.  It may not have the refinements of newer mauser designs, but in it's original caliber, served it's purpose well.  As far as handloading for it, stick to factory loads or equivalents for safety.  Rebarreling options are rather limited to the original caliber, or maybe 6.5x55.  It is NOT suitable or safe to consider rebarrelling to newer, higher pressure calibers.

[Blucollar]

John, It has been about 10 years since its been fired, I don't remember what the cases looked like.
As far as rebarreling, I would want to keep the same caliber, I had some accuracy issues and thought the barrel might be shot out.
I have other rifles, this one has a little sentimental value, I just would like to get it to shoot right and SAFE!
If that isn't posible its no big loss, just something I'll keep around good or bad.

Thank you very much for the info, if you think of anything else please let me know.
Blu.

[John Traveler]

Rebarreling to the original 7x57 caliber is relatively easy and safe.

It takes the "small ring mauser" barrels as advertised in Midway and other suppliers.

If you can find an original 7x57 barrel made in Spain, or Belgium, that would be ideal.  Otherwise, it's no problem for any qualified gunsmith to rebarrel using a commercial blank.

Let us know how it works out!

John

[Blucollar]

One more thing, upon looking a little closer, it had 7mm stamped on the barrel about 1/2 way out.
Also one the opposite side of the bolt throw there is a port hole close to the head of the bolt when closed.
Removed the stock and it has a Timney trigger.
Barrel measures 22" but, no holes in the barrel for a front site.
Barrel numbers match the numbers on the action.
Maybe a little more than "One more thing".

[John Traveler]

If your barrel looks uncut and has the military steps, it's probably original military issue.  The M1916 short rifle and the 1893 used a sweat soldered rear sight band.  The front sight was also a sweat soldered band on a reduced diameter near the muzzle.  Any evidence of previous soldering, or is the barrel polished and blued?  I've not seen any 7mm marking midway down the barrel on any military mausers.  Any evidence of military proof marks?  Your barrel may be a sporter replacement.

That oval shaped hole on the left front receiver ring is an escape port for gas.  As previously mentioned, the 1893/m1916 does not handle gas leakage as well as the M1898 design.  That hole was added as increased protection to the shooter against a blown case rupture.  The bolt body should also have a pair of holes that match up with that area when bolt is in locked position.

The Timney trigger and drilled & tapped receiver shows that someone went to some trouble to sporterize the rifle.  It may have a good commercial barrel as well.

[Blucollar]

The barrel looks like military issue, has the step down not blued to a nice finish, matches the finish of the reciever.
The stamp on the barrel may be just that, it doesn't match the other stampings on the barrel.
The crown is the only thing that looks different from the rest of the barrel, as far as finish goes, shiny.
It does have one blind hole in the top of the barrel just in front of the ring, thats all I see as far as solder/sight markings, the rest of the barrel is smooth with the factory looking stepdown.
I don't think the barrel has been replaced, it just matches the rest of the rifle too well.

[John Traveler]

Okay, looks like your original military barrel was either cut, or re-crowned, or both.

The "7mm" marking may be an importers mark.  Any other signs of importers marks?  The import laws changed n 1986 and required that the importer mark the caliber, country of origin, and importer's name and address on the gun.

The blind hole on the barrel in front of the receiver ring is evidence that the rear sight base was removed.  The rear sight base was secured with a set screw and sweat soldered in place.

I'd like to see pictures of you rifle.  It brings back fond memories of my first rifle.

[Blucollar]

I'm not to good with posting picks, but maybe with some help from the kids I can get some in a few days.
Thanks again for your help.