Going to start Reloading Soon

[backstrap]

I am going to start reloading soon and i have a few questions,1 say i am reloading for my 30-06 i have a speer Manuel#12 and i choose to use powder IMR 4350 and a 165gr bullet, max load would be 58.0 grains of powder my question is? can i use any make of bullet in the same weight or is this book just for speer bullets? say buy some nosler or hornady bullets can a person use these same weight bullets in this case or do u need to stick with speer bullets as the book is speer? Yes i know to start with the minimum load and work up i know all that stuff be reading on reloading

[Kurt L]

You are on the right track,
Sierra shows IMR 4350 56.5 max for the 165 gr.
NOSLER SHOWS IMR 4350 57.0 max for the 165gr
HODGDON SHOWS IMR 4350 57.0 max for the 165gr
just start low and work up.

[PA-Joe]

Each brand of bullet will have a different Case Overall Length. You will need to check each round to make certain that it is not too long for your magazine or too long (touching the lands).

[backstrap]

U guys still havent answered my question can u use 1 manul for diffrant bullet MAKERS, like i said use speer loading data for nosler or hornady ,sierra bullets

[myronman3]

or is this book just for speer bullets?

that manual is only for speer bullets. 

[LaOtto222]

Short answer...yes. There are exceptions however. Lead or cast bullets are slipperier in the bore so develop less friction and less pressure for the same powder load. Solid copper bullets are a breed on to them selves as some other special bullets like a Spear Bear Claw (lots of copper - little lead). As long as the bullet construction is the same or near the same ( I am not talking tips or shape, but lead core with a jacket of near the same thickness), you adjust your OAL so the bullet is not touching the lands and start with minimum powder charges and work your way up, you should be good. Remember that bullets are not the only component. If the case changes, even the primer manufacture or component verses standard can make a difference in pressure. Always start low, but not below minimum recommended power weights and work your way up slowly until you reach excessive pressure or you reach maximum powder charge. If you reach excessive pressure before recommended maximum - then drop back 5% or so and call it good. When you reach maximum powder charge and are still not showing excessive pressure - STOP. Do not go higher, even if you have no pressure signs, chances are you have reach the SAFE maximum pressure. If you purchase more than one book it helps too. I have 7 or 8 books. I might be using a bullet that is different than any book I have, but I look at all of the books to give a better idea where to start.

[myronman3]

if you read the speer manuel,  it will say outright that the information is only for use with speer bullets.  the cost of manuals is cheap enough compared to ruining a gun and injuring yourself. 

do what you want.   

[Graybeard]

Bullet maker's data truly is for THEIR BULLETS ONLY.

Does it really matter? Well maybe yes and maybe no.

Generally speaking with standard cup and core bullets there is not really enough difference from bullet maker to bullet maker to make load data from one maker unsafe with bullets of same weight from another maker.

BUT there are exceptions. Bullets like the Nosler PT and other partition types are not as forgiving going down the bore and do raise pressures from those of standard cup and core type bullets so using them in lieu of a cup and core bullet is going to raise pressures and how much you can't know or tell. Same goes for plastic tipped bullets like the Nosler BT but for a different reason. They are longer and thus have a longer bearing surface and that increases friction and thus pressure so data for plastic tipped bullets again is not exactly the same pressure wise.

And then you have the monolithic bullets like the Barnes X bullets and you can not only NOT use cup and core data for them you don't even use the same data set for the three different types or generations of them.

So it's not to be considered a safe practice to just indiscriminately use data for one bullet with another. Yeah most times it's not a huge big deal but when you start getting up at the max end of the load range it is iffy whether your pressures will be safe or not and no there really is no list of pressure indicators to use to keep you out of trouble.

That's why I say the absolute MINIMUM load manuals to have are: The Lyman manual, the manual of all bullet makers you'll be using and the manuals of all powder makers that you'll be using. Then review all that are appropriate for the load components you're about to use and for good measure bump it all against Lyman. Have a chrono and use it. Go no higher than the manual max and when you reach the velocity they say STOP even if you've not gotten to their max load yet.

[corbanzo]

That all depends.  As above state, manuals are for their bullets only.  The big differences between the bullets have to do with skin friction (how the bullet contacts the case and the barrel)  If you have two JHP's which are the same weight, and also the same material, which are of the same dimensions, then you shouldn't have a problem.

Bullets like the barnes TSX's have less surface area contact, therefor less skin friction, and therefor less amount of psi generated to push them down the barrel.  Same thing with coated bullets, less skin friction=less psi. 

If you use moly coated bullet data for a non coated bullet of the exact same weight and diameter, the non coated is going to generate much more pressure than the coated bullet.  Some of these differences according to the manufacturer are 2 grains or more.  The differences between lead bullets and copper coateds are even greater.

If I have a bullet which I don't have the exact data for, then I will check a bullet which is VERY similar in the books I have, make sure I get more than one source, and even triple check on somewhere like hodgdon.com to make sure I'm not going over a stated maximum. 

[Savage]

Although it's no substitute for loading manuals, there is a plethora of loading data available on-line from the powder and bullet manufacturers.  This is the ONLY reloading data source you should trust on-line!! You can't have too many loading manuals. The Lyman and Speer are my favorites. I still have my first manual, a Lyman that I bought back in the mid 60s. I reference it often.
Savage

[beemanbeme]

Everytime you change a component do you have to run out and get a load book that features that particular item?? The short answer is no.  But you do have to use a little prudence.  Because the various companies can't even agree on what the correct size of a .308 bullet should be. Nor the ogive, etc.
Not a whole lot of reloaders use the exact formula found in each load book.  They may use Speer bullets and the Speer load book but they may substitute Win brass or Rem or CCI primers for Feds and so forth.  And too, they may favor a book from a company that doesn't even make bullets, like Lyman or Hodgdon.  Mostly, they like to keep several around so they can make a comparison.
So the rule of thumb for the prudent reloader is: anytime you subtitute or change a component, drop back (say 10%) and work up again. You can use the Hornady load book to load Remington bullets, for example,  as long as you remember that the load books are guide lines not absolutes.

[Dave in WV]

My advice to a new reloader is to get a good manual. I suggest the most current Lyman's reloading manual that covers rifle and handgun since it covers so many cartridges and has loads for lead bullets too. After getting a good manual the cartridge specific Loadbooks are good because you get data from the bullet companies and the powder companies. Remember the same barrels are not used to get the data for each manual. Also different bullet styles in the same weight (IE: boat tails, flat base, round nosed) even from the same company have a different amount of bearing surface (the amount of the bullet touching the bore) so the max loads can be different. All copper bullets like the X bullets don't slide as easily through the barrel so that makes a difference too. I have fooled deer with less than max loads for years. They died without knowing they'd been cheated.