Author Topic: barrel bedding block  (Read 2327 times)

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Offline jmm03

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barrel bedding block
« on: June 26, 2003, 06:48:50 PM »
Greetings all,I am gearing up to build a rifle based on a springfield 03 action using a douglas #8 contour barrel chambered for either 6.5x55 or 6.5-284.I will probably use a unertl 16x 11/2 scope on top that I would like to mount to a bedding block so that the action and the barrel are free floated.Any thoughts or suggestions about this project would be greatly appreciated.thanks much,regards,Jim McGuinness

Offline gunnut69

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barrel bedding block
« Reply #1 on: June 27, 2003, 02:06:55 PM »
I am a bit intrigued..  How are you going to float both the barrel and the action, something has to be bedded to hold the rest together!  I have heard of barrel bedded rifles, and bedded actions.  Usually bedding blocks are machined to fit the action and the barrel is allowed to float.  I guess I just don't understand..
gunnut69--
The 2nd amendment to the constitution of the United States of America-
"A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed."

Offline GWN

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barrel bedding block
« Reply #2 on: June 27, 2003, 03:54:37 PM »
jmm03,
There is an article on a F-Class rifle project in Precision Shooting Magazine(May 03). The author made a barrel block and goes into great detail with pictures. This article is part 1. Part 2 will cover the stock work and load development. I haven't seen part 2 and I don't know which month it will be published. I'm sure back issues are still available. The web site is www.precisionshooting.com
George

Offline GWN

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barrel bedding block
« Reply #3 on: June 27, 2003, 04:00:11 PM »
gunnut69,
A barrel block is clamped around the barrel just ahead of the action. The block is bedded into the stock and everything ahead of and behind the block is floating.
George

Offline jmm03

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barrel bedding block
« Reply #4 on: June 27, 2003, 04:57:39 PM »
Thanks for the replies,im a bit sketchy about the details of fastening the block to the rifle and the block to the stock myself,hence the inquiery.ill check out the precision shooting website also,but any more comments and suggestions would be appreciated.jim

Offline gunnut69

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« Reply #5 on: June 27, 2003, 06:04:50 PM »
Well I have not heard of that..  I am not an expert but have trouble believing just allowing the barrel and the action vibrate as they wished wouldn't improve grouping.  I always sort of subscribed to the barrel bedded (even glued in) school. If a sufficiently stable stock is selected the vibration of the barrel should be reduced and controlled as much as possible.  I had never heard of a rifle where the action and the barrel are both allowed to vibrate without controll.  I have heard of barrel bedding devices.  They surround the barrel and are used to control the barrels vibrations at firing.  How does allowing a rifle to vibrate as widely as possible on both ends cause it to shoot better?  There's always something new to learn!!
gunnut69--
The 2nd amendment to the constitution of the United States of America-
"A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed."

Offline GWN

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barrel bedding block
« Reply #6 on: June 28, 2003, 02:40:51 PM »
Jim and gunnut69,
Go to www.benchrest.com and select rail guns. Magnum Metal has some of the best pictures. These pictures can better explain than I can. I do not shoot benchrest but the club I belong to has a lot guys that do. Fascinating bunch to talk to and usually they insist I sit and try a group with their gun. I never refuse.
George

Offline jmm03

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barrel bedding block
« Reply #7 on: June 28, 2003, 06:22:10 PM »
thanks for the tips george,railguns are a little exotic for my taste but very interesting to look at.i am mainly searching for a picture or some info on a bedding block that i can inlet or bolt into a relatively conventional stock.regards,jim

Offline gunnut69

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« Reply #8 on: June 28, 2003, 09:39:33 PM »
I believe what your looking for is just a metal block inletted for the rifle's action.  I don't know of a commercial source for these as the ones I'm familiar with were built for the action they were to be used with.  Depending on the action they can be fairly simple to very intricate.  They are quite expensive and are really not that much better than a good bedding job when used in a conventional rifle, their only advantage being repeatability, return to same position after disassembly.  What do you intend to use this piece for??  The iron monsters are pretty much useless for anything other than punching paper...
gunnut69--
The 2nd amendment to the constitution of the United States of America-
"A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security of a free state, the right of the people to keep and bear arms, shall not be infringed."

Offline GWN

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barrel bedding block
« Reply #9 on: June 29, 2003, 02:21:38 PM »
Jim,
Since you stated that you wanted both the action and barrel floating I assumed you were looking for info on a barrel block. That's the only way I know you can do this. Just imagine that the lower half of the barrel block is bedded and fastened into a conventional looking stock instead of bolted on a top plate that rides on rails. The article I refered to in Precision Shooting shows the fabrication of a block to use in a conventional stock, but it looks very much like the blocks used on rail guns. If you are looking for a bedding block for the action then the action will not be floating. I've not seen many bedding blocks offered (mostly for Remington). If this is what you are looking for you may have to pillar bed instead.
George

Offline sebastian

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barrel bedding block
« Reply #10 on: June 30, 2003, 10:58:53 AM »
Darrel Holland with his "Building a Tactical or Varmint Rifle" (American Gunsmith Institute) perhaps it is a great source for you.
You can see how he build the rifle. He use a "V-Block" of alumunium that glued in into the syntetic stock to "hold" the barrel (at straight tapper-shoulder area).

I just worry why do you choose a Springfield '03 action for this reason. If you want an accurate rifle for hunting purpose i don't think you need "extra treatment" like barrel bedding (=floating the receiver) and a #8 countur barrel that weight 7lbs for 26" length....
So, i assump you want a "target rifle"... Please correct me if i'm wrong.

If you want to build a target or benchrest rifle (supposed to be very accurate), i don't think the '03 action (or other old military bolt actions like '98, Enfield, etc) will fit the needs. It doesn't has a rigid structure and has very slow of lock time because of the design. (the pin travel is too long, the firing pin sets is too heavy and "slow", trigger mechanism design, etc...,even you then use like David G. Tubb's - Speedlock system and other replacement trigger sets).
You also need a good syntetic stock or perhaps a laminated stock for "stability" reason, because i guess you can not use a wooden stock for this "barrel-bedding block idea".

If you didn't have gunsmithing skill and a lathe machine, i don't think you can do it yourself. I don't know what caliber you want for your rifle. But i guess you want a "high power rifle", so the recoil lug (of the reciever) bassically must be right in front of (and the lug surface must contact) the front side of the block. This mean you need to remove the existing recoil lug, except you add "another" recoil lug on the barrel (as a primary recoil lug).
You know that Springfield has integral recoil lug at the bottom side (not as like Rem700).  
If not, better you stay with floating the barrel and bedding the receiver...(as a "conventional" system - commonly used).
With your heavy barrel countur, perhaps add a 2" bedding for the barrel except of bedding the receiver (to help more rigid structure).
Glass or Steel Epoxy, both fine.

Hope this help and have fun.
Please apologize for my poor english since it is not my own languange.

Sebastian.
Life is like a story, it is the "content" and not the "length" to make it good....

Offline GWN

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barrel bedding block
« Reply #11 on: June 30, 2003, 02:00:09 PM »
Jim,
If you are still interested in a barrel block, this site shows how it was done with a 10-22.
http://riflestocks.tripod.com/bedding.html#BARRELBEDDINGBLOCK

Also, you may want to check out this article:
http://www.riflebarrels.com/articles/longrange_shooting/shooting_hunting_page3.htm

George

Offline jmm03

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barrel bedding block
« Reply #12 on: July 01, 2003, 12:05:49 PM »
Thanks for the replies guys,i appreciate the help.Im using a high number remington 03 (not 03A3) action because i have one and I just like springfields i guess.Its mainly to play around at a 600 yard shoot that entails shooting at half size metallic sihlloettes,man those chickens are small,even through 20X.the main reason that i am interested in the barrel block method kills a couple of birds with one stone,beds the rifle,provides a place to mount the scope that is independent of the barrel and action,and i wont ruin a springfield action by drilling and tapping.This isnt going to be a mega-bucks rig,i cant afford it so i do what i can with what i have.I had already found those articles George,thats where i read about the barrel block first,thanks.regards,jim

Offline GWN

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« Reply #13 on: July 01, 2003, 01:51:34 PM »
Jim,
I received the July issue of Precision Shooting today. Part 2 of the article I refered to earlier is in this issue. This covers bedding the block into a conventional looking stock. The author built his block with an intergral scope rail so he wouldn't have to drill the receiver.
George

Offline jmm03

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« Reply #14 on: July 02, 2003, 02:04:16 PM »
George,where can i get that magazine?i went to the website but could not access the subscription section.thanks,jim

Offline GWN

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« Reply #15 on: July 02, 2003, 02:51:40 PM »
Jim,
Precision Shooting
222 McKee St
Manchester, CT 06040
Phone: 860/645-8776
Fax: 860/643-8215

Back issues are available from this office. They will provide a back issue list at no charge. Subscribtions are available for $37 for 1 year. If you just want the back issues for the 2 part article you need May and July, 2003.
George