Finished 17FB stub Handi

[trotterlg]

I finished up the stub project Handi day before yesterday.  I shot it yesterday and it worked like a charm.  I only had 18 rounds of factory ammo, but I got it on paper and put the last three inside of 1 inch a 200 yards.  I would say this was luck, I was getting a little less than 1 inch at 100 yards.  Funny thing is that a half inch high at 100 yards gets me dead on at 200 yards, all has to do the the scope heigth etc.  It is on a youth stock and weighs under 6 pounds as you see it.  The barrel is 18 3/4 inches long and .500 at the muzzel, is it a Clerk intended for a 77-22, I turned it around to get rid of the cut in the breach end and ran it backwards which doesn't seem to hurt anything.  Fixed power 4X scope.Larry

[stimpylu32]

Larry

You never fail to surprise me , another fine job . 

stimpy

[MSP Ret]

Larry my friend, that is a thing of beauty!!!....<><....

[Inrut24/7]

I am definatly jelous, Put me down for first dibs if you ever go to sell it. 

[canon6]

Larry. as always a great looking carbine,    Doug

[NFG]

Excellent job...hope my machinations turn out to shoot as well as yours.

'Njoy

[d_hiker]

Larry, it looks very good.  I enjoy reading about your projects.

[LaOtto222]

A very good job and that 17 FB is a great cartridge too. It should make a great carry gun or a truck gun for varmints or predators.

[EVOC ONE]

Very nice.   

[shaner]

sounds like a great job , ive never had a chance to try a fireball, but always liked the 17 rem;s i had,

[skifastchad]

I am definatly jelous, Put me down for first dibs if you ever go to sell it. 

Sorry Inrut, you are 35 days late! 

http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,139310.msg1098547305.html#msg1098547305

[JerryKo]

Larry,

Sounds like another A++


Jerry

[NFG]

Larry...I have a few questions if you don't mind answering...

How did you attach the for-end to the barrel?  and

How did you do the collar to run in the steady rest?(what steps) and

What do you think the minimum barrel thickness under a #6, #8 or #10 threaded hole should be?

I have a 10" T/C Contender 256 win hex barrel that used a dovetail lock cut into the barrel 0.350" x 0.400" x 0.065 deep which makes the walls about 0.135" thick over that area of 0.140 sq in .  I don't doubt the engineers calculated plenty of strength for the pressure in that area.  I'm always wondering about wall thickness and pressure anytime I drill and tap for a scope base, sights or mounting a for-arm on a T/C Encore, NEF (or any barrel for that matter) just what the minimum wall thickness should be?  Several people on several forums have indicated 0.100" as minimum.  My Contender is 0.135" at that point  and I'm going to use the T/C dovetail locks on my stub barrels, the smallest diameter being 0.750" and 0.725" and 22 cal at the point of attachments...so there is plenty of meat...and I won't go beyond 0.150" for a #6 screw or 0.175" for a #8 screw. 

Just wondering what your experience is or where you draw the line? 

Anyone else's thoughts on minimum wall thickness under mounting screws will be appreciated also.

Thanks

'Njoy

[trotterlg]

I have no skills to calculate the strength of any material.  I rely only on what has been done by others and worked.  I have a .22 Mag barrel that has a scout mount scope that has only about .040 to the bore from the scope base holes, and it has never blown one of those, my guess is that the .150 is way over what is needed with a #6 sized hole, however I have no data to prove it one way or the other.  I also don't know how you assign an amount of strength to the dovetail that you drive into the barrel to lock it, on this project I used a threaded collar at the breach and a driven in pin at the front of the barrel, it didn't blow up so I guess it is more than is needed.  Wish I could offer some calculations to you, but I just do not have the skills for it.  Larry

[NFG]

Thanks...I'm only slightly mathematically inclined...as long as I have a calculator handy.  I just always wonder if I'm getting close enough to loose an unintended missile...mostly in my direction.

'Njoy

[trotterlg]

Forgot about the forend attachment.  I used the lug cut from a shotgun barrel, with the barrel attached.  I bored the barrel section to match the 17 barrel and then drilled and tapped the screw lug through.  I then used lock tight and a setscrew in the bottom of the forearm lug to get the ring to hold position.  Larry

[NFG]

Did a similar thing to my 45-70 BC after shearing off the originals with added weight to a aftermarket forearm...it's in the stickys somewhere.  My dad always said "Glue AND Screw"...he did a lot of wood working so I silver soldered them also.  A lot of work!!!  I made some dovetail locks for a forearm on a T/C Encore after cross threading those tiny screws T/C passes for attaching devices...I couldn't find any of the early T/C hex barrel dovetail locks so I made copies...A lot of work!!!.  This time one 0.060" deep or so cut, slide in a lock, epoxy/locktite it and add the hanger...I could almost do it in my sleep....well just before a nap anyway.

Can't wait until all the pieces and parts get here and I can get back to work....I really don't do well with waiting...guess I'll have to go after some rats and shoot up the rest of the 17 HMR so THAT project will sit on the shelf giving me the evil eye.

'Njoy

[wanderer]

Excellent work, sir. I am thinking of doing a stubbing project or two in the future and I have one question. How did you cut the slot for the ejector/extractor? I am assuming that you milled it, but what did your set up look like? For example, did you clamp the vise to an angle plate so that the barrel hung down off the side of the table? Or do you have a horizontal mill?

Thanks and good work.

[trotterlg]

I used a milling attachment on an Atlas lathe, so it is a horizontal mill.  Larry