17AH stub

[huntnfish08]

Hey guys, first time poster here. I had heard that this is the place to go for all things H&R.

I would like to build a 17Ackley Hornet. What is the easiest way to go about this. I've got a 17HMR barrel from a 917V. Diameter is ~0.8" chamber to muzzle. Would it be less headache to build a stub or buy a H&R 17m2 or hmr barrel and have it rechambered. I know I need a SB2 frame for the centerfire. Can a shotgun like a pardner be used for both the stub and action? The 17AH is a small cartridge. SAAMI max pressure for 22hornet is 43,000psi. Is that light enough for a SB1 action? I recall reading someone posting about converting a SB1 to centerfire.

Adam

[quickdtoo]

As you said, you need an SB2 frame for centerfire rifle barrels, stick with that premise and you'll be good to go, there are several recent discussions on .17 centerfires made from rimfire barrels, which are made of 1137 mild steel instead of the 4140 alloy of centerfire barrels, so that's your decision.

Tim

[trotterlg]

If you are not going to do the work yourself, you will be way ahead cost wise just running a reamer into a 17 HMR barrel and putting a hornet ejector in it.  You will have to mill out the ejector slot some because the RF ejector is a different shape than the hornet ejector.  Larry

[huntnfish08]

The 1137 steel doesn't bother me one bit. The 17AH is a mild load.

What would it cost to take my HMR barrel to a gunsmith and rent reamers, and have him stub an old barrel? Would it be cheaper to get a pre-chambered barrel made from an H&R 17rimfire from someone on this site? Who would I contact? What about turn around time for either option?

Thanks,
Adam

[quickdtoo]

A smith will charge $50 to $100 for the work, plus the reamer rental if he doesn't have one, plus ejector work. Wayne York does all of my work and for many others here.

Tim

http://home.earthlink.net/~oregunsmithing/index.html

[trotterlg]

The work to rechamber from a RF to the Hornet is well under an hour.  I just did a Handi 17 HMR to a 17 Remington fireball, it took about an hour and a half because of making and adding the lifter button required for the rimless case.  You could modify the RF ejector to fit the hornet, it would save money to buy but cost money to modfy, probably a push, plus you cannot buy the RF ejectors seperate, they are a factory fit item only, so if you can get one keep it.  To do a full up stubbing project I wouuld say you will have at least 7 hours labor in it plus you will have to refinish the barrel when you are done.  Larry

[huntnfish08]

I just came across an interesting fact. A 12 gauge chamber is approx. .8inches. My Marlin 917V HMR barrel diameter is .8inches. Does anyone have the exact inside chamber diameter for a 12ga Pardner. So hypothetically:

Could I thread each and have myself a good barrel combo with stock attachment?

Can the ejector be salvaged?

What frame does the 12ga Pardner use? SB1or2? The firing pin must be centered for use of shotshells. Is this frame adequate for a 17AH?

Thanks for all the quick responses. You guys are great!
Adam

[trotterlg]

If the barrel is .8 and the chamber is .8 it doesn't leave much for threads.  Do a search for stubbing or stub, I have posted about 50 pictures of how I do it, others do it differently.  At the minimum you will need a lathe that will cut threads, the 12 gauge barrel will need quite a bit of work, however you may be able to turn the barrel to about .725 to make a sholder on the front to seat on the front of the stub after the chamber.  You then cut a threaded collar and thread the end of the barrel, bore the breach end of the shotgun stub to about .900 and use that to hold the barrel in.  Again look at the pictures, it shows the whole process.  No, don't use the SB1 frame, even if the shotgun frame was strong enough, anyone who told you it was would be immediately banned for life from this site, this is something you would have to decide for yourself.  Larry

[trotterlg]

parts:

[AKbuilder]

... No, don't use the SB1 frame, even if the shotgun frame was strong enough, ...  Larry

Not only what Larry said, but the shotgun firing pin looks too big, would look like cobbled up mess. 

It has been posted before that with a shotgun sized firing pin you probably will see more primer punctures, not a safe thing either.  May not rupture the primer on a "low pressure" round like .17AH but I wouldn't do it.

Thanks,
Pauly not be

[huntnfish08]

Not to stir the pot or anything but; Many people use pistol primers in their 17AH loads. So would these be alright on a shotgun action? I'm not going to do it, just interested to know. Are blown primers a result of the primer used or the pressure of the round? If I understand correctly, the size of the firing pin hole on the SB1 is large enough for a Small Rifle Primer to pass through. Is that the case?

[huntnfish08]

A 20ga has a chamber of .699". My .17 barrel is .8"diameter.
What do I need for thread engagement between the two?
Can both the stub and barrel be threaded together with JB weld without stepping the barrel or using some type of locking nut?

If I could do this project with little more than a tap&die set that would be fantastic. Then I could do most of this at home.

I know alignment of the newly cut chamber to the bore is important. Must the chamber of a 17AH be cut on a lathe? I read many hand turn to ream from 357 to 357MAX. I realize much more metal would need to be removed. My barrel is mild 1137 steel as are the 20ga barrels, if that helps.

I will need a SB2 frame so I figure I might as well buy a rifle and get a used 20ga barrel for stubbing. Can SB2 frames be found without a barrel?

Sorry for all the questions but this is new to me and I have to start somewhere.

[quickdtoo]

As has been stated before, rifle pressures are consideraly more than shotgun pressures, so no, a shotgun frame shouldn't be used for any rifle chambering.

Frames can be bought used in the NEF Classifieds here, I think there's one available now.

Tim

[trotterlg]

You will need to do lathe work for the project.  The chamber of a shotgun is not really the same diameter all the way through, then there is the forcing cone at the end of the chamber.  There is a rim cut in the breach end you need to do something about also.  Only way I could see to do it without a lathe would be to somehow drill the stub to near the exact size as the barrel and then, using JB weld as bedding, drill and drive a few pins through the stub/barrel joint.  Then use a fairly low pressure round.  That may work.  You will still have the problem of cutting the ejector slot however.  Larry

[handirifle]

OK here's another thought.  If the 12ga chamber is .8" and so is the barrel, then heat up the stub to expand it, then set the barrel in place, headspace it, THEN drill and pin it with cross pins that go through the stub and barrel near the bottom edge, like Savage does on their rimfires and their new model 25, in 223 and 204 Ruger.

I tried to find a pic but can't locate one.

[trotterlg]

Problem is the chamber is not the same diameter all the way through, it has a slight taper to it.  Guess you clould just lube it up with molley and drive through from the breach end.  It really just needs to be done right.  Also, remember,  If you cut off a shotgun barrel that  can chamber a round, you have a sawed off shotgun which could make you a very unhappy person if you got busted at just the right time.  When I do these, I first bore out the breach end to fit the barrel, then I cut the breach from the shotgun barrel when it is in a condition it cannot be made to chamber and fire a round.  I am just paranoid I guess.  Larry

[handirifle]

Problem is the chamber is not the same diameter all the way through, it has a slight taper to it. 

I didn't realize that.   Take a 20ga barrel and ream it to size.

As for the paranoia, we have to be.

[trotterlg]

From all the stub projects I have done the 20 gauge is the best to start with.  The 12 gauge limits the barrel you can use due to it's bore, you can use a barrel nut, but it is extra work.  The 410 has a lot of extra metal to take out, but the 20 gauge is just right.  I have never done two exactly the same, they are all an individual effort.  Larry