what powder measure

[mattmillerrx]

I am using dads old powder measure right now and it is ok but had to clean it up real good and remove a bit of rust from it.  It throws some charges way off so am currently charging into a spent case and trickling into the scales and am ok doing this but want to start looking for a very nice powder measure.  I see several that are listed as bench rest or competition going for around 120 bucks and was wondering if they are worth the extra money.  Or should I just save up for a little longer and get one of the electric ones like the lyman 1200.

thanks for your imput.

[LaOtto222]

I have an old RCBS powder measure with 2 drums that I had used for years with satisfactory results. I would set it up close to my final weight and then trickle in the final little bit on the scale. Now I have a RCBS electronic power measure. If I was to start over and wanted a powder thrower, I think I would go with the Redding 3 powder measure. I have heard nothing but good about them. Very consistent.

[Kurt L]

i have a Hornady and find I need to do as you do alot.
as powder gets lower in hopper it changes and 4350 etc is real bad.
r7 and 296 etc work well but as hopper level changes so does the charge it throws.
just thought i would toss this out to you.
I think a rcbs ,redding with a powder baffle would be better.
Kurt

[LHitchcox]

I have a Lyman that I have had for almost 40 years that is still very accurate, and I have a Lee Perfect measure that I really love with stick powder. The Lee can be had for less than $25 and are a surprise to most folks. They look light duty, but they perform as advertised.

Leon

[coyotejoe]

I have the same two measures and find that both of them will bind up with the very fine grained powders like H110/W296, although they both work fine with other powders.

[Ladobe]

Harrell's Precision

[beemanbeme]

The courser the powder the harder it's gonna be to throw a precise charge.  Most folks do like you and dump a charge that is close and trickle it up.  Or they go to a ball powder and check every 5th or 10th charge.  Depending on what they're loading for.  How consistant your motion is in dumping a charge has a lot to do with how consistant your charges are also.  That takes practice. 
All that said, I've used a Redding and a powder trickler for a lot of years with an Ohaus 10/10 and was perfectly happy. I had to take the Redding apart once in a while to wipe the accumulated powder dust out of it.  I use a Lyman 1200 now and think it's the cat's nuts.
IMO, if I was gonna spend in the neighborhood of $150 or so for a powder measure, I think I'd save a bit longer and get the 1200.  I just don't think they make a powder measure that can precisely drop stick powder.
Also, FWIW, I'm always a little leery when they hang titles on something like "benchrest", "sniper", "tactical" and such. What exactly is the difference?  Is there one or is it Madison Avenue sales hype. Of course, GB's is a good place to ask about that.

[Glanceblamm]

I really do like the old Lyman #55 because this three silide unit will throw powders like Unique or Bluedot very accurately if you keep the large cylinder on the bottom shut off.
I am not recommending that you purchase one of these dinosaurs...High on my wish list would be a good auto-dispense type like an RCBS Chargemaster. The advantage to one of these types is that you would be free to seat & crimp bullets while the auto-dispense is doing it's thing, It would almost be like having two people at the bench.

[corbanzo]

I use an RCBS uniflow, and it gives me consistant throws, as long as I keep the arm moving consistantly.  I was even throwing RL-19 (long stick) pretty damn accurate the other night.  If you do a lot of "shootin" one of these are great, and they run about $80.  When I am making test ammo, or long range hunting loads, then I always throw and trickle to get it perfect.

[Blackhawk44]

Corbanzo, has just about hit it.  The real trick to mechanical powder measures is the consistency of your operation of the measure.  That means every phase of its operation, from putting a baffle in the bottom of the hopper, how firmly you operate the handle, how smoothly or roughly you operate it, "bumping" the stops the same way each stroke, dumping back a charge that didn't "feel" just right, keeping the powder level consistent.  It will be obvious that some powders meter more easily that others, but ALL will benefit from your contributions.  Even long stick powders can be thrown with surprising results.  Once my measure is set, I do not weigh individual charges, whether pistol or rifle other than periodic testing.  Neither the factories nor the vast majority of target shooters weigh their charges, why should I?  Remember, the volume of the measure doesn't change from stroke to stroke, only your delivery of the stroke itself.  Any of the rotary chamber measures from Hornady, RCBS or Redding (even Lee) will serve for 98% of the duties that a measure could be called upon. 

You will be amazed how accurate a measure can be once you correct and organize your own procedures.

[Savage]

For rifle charges I use an old Uniflow, and a Lee Perfect powder measures. The Uniflow works great, the Perfect works better.
Savage

[hardly]

Mettler AE160

[goodconcretecolor]

I use a Lee perfect powder measure and find if I fill the hopper about 2/3 full then place a powder funnel in the top of the hopper and fill it with powder, Charge to charge consistantcy improves. With ball powders that is not needed in most cases. I calibrate scales in a certified testing lab and I trust a well maintained mechanical balance type scale more than I do most electronic scales. I find a combination of the Lee measure along with a Lee dipper set and my Lyman balance type scale(had a Lee and I had a hard time reading it with reading glasses or a magnifier), good speed with accuracy is just a matter of practice without having to spend a fortune.