Winchester 94 Wood Finish ?

[GTKF]

I picked up a mid 70s model 94. a previous owner put a sloppy coat of polyurethane over the original finish. I'm stripping it now and would like to apply the original type of finish.

Can anyone tell me if winchester used varnish, oil or a low gloss poly at that time?

Thanks

Ken

[davem270win]

I just redid one made in 1973. Replaced the butt only - matched the stain and refinished with truoil. Matches pretty well.

[Dee]

GTKF, I have a Model 94 Winchester 3030 Dad bought new in 1958, and gave to me. When he handed it to me he had, fired 7 shots  thru it. It was new.
Several years ago I ordered from Navy Arms a Model 92 Winchester clone in 357 magnum, with walnut stock and forearm. It had a cheap finish on it, and I washed it off with lacquer thinner. Beautiful walnut under-neath.
Six coats of hand rubbed true oil, caused it to look IDENTICAL to the finish on my 1958 Model 94.
As you can imagine, after being carried in a patrol car, and on man hunts in the Red River Bottoms of Texas over a 20 year career (since ended), and years of just knocking around the finish is pretty thin on the 3030.
The Model 92 has been carried A BUNCH in recent years also, and is catching up with the 50 year old Winchester. They look the same.
davem270win, told you right.

[GTKF]

Thanks guys. I'll give truoil a try

Ken

[S.B.]

I bought a made in 1979 94 and it had thin finish on the stock and forearn. Applied one coat of BLO but, this Illinois humidity is taking forever to dry.

[GTKF]

I use a lot of BLO and/or tung oil for furniture finishing in a blend. Try 1/3 each; BLO. varnish and mineral spirits. Normaly dries in 12 hrs. Brush on, wipe excess, let dry, rub with 0000 steel wol between coats. I use about 7 coats. this is what I did on the Winchester.

[STUMPJMPR]

i believe the original finish on those was varnish....Varnish is fairly durably but non repairable if i remember right....

[S.B.]

Actually, one of the better finishes for guns I've used is straight tung oil? Why would you thin it and cut it for gun finishing? It's more durable straight. A gunsmith once told me it can be used as a filler also. Sand a stock coated with tung oil with 400 wet or dry sandpaper and rub the acumulated saw dust particles into the grain on the wood? Makes a very smooth, filled coat, with no grooves of the grain showing.
Steel wool breaks down causing it to imbed into the wood, making a some what rougher finish, in my experience?

STUMPJMPR, you wouldn't remember what type or brand of varnish, would you?

[GTKF]

Finishing depends on what you want to achieve; Surface portection (varnish, poly, lacquer shellac provide various degrees of color hardness and solvent resistance) - keeps wood dry, provides gloss, but chips & hard to repair. Oils (Tung, BLO ) penetrate & polymerize - dings & scratches don't show, and fiinish is easy to repair, Oils don't seal well. Oils blended with varnish penetrate, dry fast are harder than just oil, are easily repaired and offer some surface protection.

Rubbing the dust into the grain hides the grain. Sanding the "high spots" after each coat and cleaning the dust, fills the grain with clear finish, not hing the grain, but takes longer

[S.B.]

GTKF, I highly disagree with you, on this? But then I've seen some of the stocks he's done, beautiful. Thanks for the stock finish lesson but, most people who frequent gun forums have already learned this? Still, I understand there are those who refuse to believe that members are not ignorant about these things and get much joy from posting quoted references from text books?

[MGMorden]

Just one note: if I'm not mistaken, Formby's Tung Oil that seems to be the one most people use most often is already an oil/varnish blend and not pure tung oil.  So using a tung oil/varnish blend may be a good idea, but that's what you'd be using anyways right out of the can .

FWIW, from my recollection, PURE oil finishing compounds today are quite rare (and expensive).  Most finishes are blends - I'm pretty sure that Tru-Oil is actually a BLO and polyurethane blend.  I've heard that Formby's Tung Oil (and most other commercial varieties) are a Tung Oil/varnish blend.

I've used Tru-Oil and it worked well.  The Tung Oil I haven't used extensively yet but have started 1 stock with it and like it so far - it's much thinner and so the problem with runs/drips/streaks is not as much of an issue.  I've also used and REALLY liked another oil finish that I believe was called G96 Gun Stock Oil.  I'll check the bottle when I get home.  It was a BLO derivative but was thinner and produced a better looking finish than Tru Oil for me (also didn't seem to have the same dark stain color in it.  The only downside was that after being opened, I was able to finish my 1 stock but over time the leftover finish dried up in the bottle .

I've also tried straight polyurethane (spray on - was feeling rushed and figured I'd try it) and was EXTREMELY disappointed in the results.  Very "blotchy" looking finish that I didn't like at all.  Won't be trying that one again.

[GTKF]

SB

Looking at your previous 2 posts, did the comments in the 2nd one refer to your opinions in the first, since they are not from your own, but anothers experience at wood finishing??

[GTKF]

MG

You're absolutely right. Formbys and most "tung oil" finishes are blends of oils, varnish and min spirits. Finding pure (100%) tung oil takes some looking and is expensive

[Mikey]

Try Watco Danish Tung Oil.  I've used that on a couple of stocks and it has worked great.  But now I'm a bit concerned about my 94AEs..... Mikey.

[jakes10mm]

I had the same problem with refinishing a worn finish on an OLD Browning Over-Under Shotgun.  Caught a tip on another forum that is a 50/50 mix of Tung Oil and Spar Varnish.  I used both finishes in their "semi-gloss" finish then rubbed them with scotchbrite and "OOO" Steel Wool to the same sheen as the original finish.  Have since used it on several other rifle projects with very good results.  Provides both penetration and surface protection.  It is also blends in well for shot repair.