Author Topic: New Bore Cleaning / Cylinder Removal 1858 Pietta (Read 924 times)

David L · « **on:** August 19, 2003, 10:05:59 PM »

Just got the powder eater today. I looked and looked in the manual and diden't find the section, page or paragraph that tells the easiest way to remove and install the cylinder, this is what I'm doing:
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Placed trigger in half cock position.
Pulled down rammer rod.
Pulled cylinder pin.
Rotated cylinder slightly to the right and removed it via the right hand side of gun.
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Getting it out is a breeze but installing it is easier said than done. I know, reverse to install, I've worked on enough cars ta know that BUT it seems to hang-up. The only way I can get it back in is to pull the trigger back a bit while I slip it back in, THEN, once it is aligned I pull the trigger all the way back and lock the cylinder in place and ,THEN, I push the cylinder pin back in. Sometimes I have to redo this procedure several times in order for everything to line-up so the cylinder pin can be pushed back in. IT feels like I'm doing something wrong?

I put an eyeball inside the gun bore and the rifling looks to be shallow? It looks like it is less than 1/32 of an inch deep, is this normal? The inside of the barrel looks like polished stainless steel and looks really good.

The gun locks-up purty tight and seems to fit real good. That hammer pull is like really stout, I like it. I also like the loud audiable click it makes as you cock the hammer, since I'm bout half deaf hearing anything is exciting!

BTW - Don't ever clean-out your nipples in the trash can. The cylinders were empty and I thought I would clean the oil and junk out of them. I put #10 remingtom caps on my nipples and fired it into the trash can and my ole lady about lost-it, I thought she was gonna hafta clean out her undies. First time and the last in the house, orders from headquarters...*L*

Thanks for the help

David L

simonkenton · « **Reply #1 on:** August 20, 2003, 01:23:22 AM »

I have a Pietta, but it is an 1860 so I can't help you with that cylinder question.
I like the Pietta. Like yours, mine locks up tight. It looks good and it is a good shooter.
You might want to get a parts kit. I have had the hand spring break, and the main spring. This sounds bad, but it really is no big deal. I replaced them my self, took about ten minutes each, and gives you a chance to learn a little gunsmithing.
By the way, my new main spring was too stiff, it took too much force to cock the gun. I took it back out and, holding it in my hand, ground on it with the belt sander. In 90 seconds of grinding I had made it a little skinnier, and it works fine. If you are holding it in your hand, it won't get so hot as to damage the temper.
You will enjoy your new gun, I want to get a Remington myself.

Charlie Detroit · « **Reply #2 on:** August 20, 2003, 03:21:37 AM »

It's been a few years (about 25!) since I had a Remington...mine was from Navy Arms...but I'll offer a few suggestions; take 'em or leave 'em; I'm working from a long-ago memory.
I do not recall ever having any difficulty reassembling the cylinder to the frame such as you describe. When I'd slip the cylinder in, I'd also be rotating it clockwise (as seen from the back) and I'd hear the hand, or whatever the manufacturer calls it, clicking away on the little ratchet cuts as I slipped it in. This would usually line things up pretty well, and the pin would just slide right in. Occasionally there would be a hangup, but pointing the gun toward the floor and rotating the cylinder while I was (gently) pushing the pin in would take care of the problem. As a matter of fact, that technique stuck to me so well that to this day, I do the same thing with my Ruger Vaquero.
The only other idea that I have is that your bolt/cylinder stop might be a tad long, and be interfering with reassembly. Shaving it down should be your last choice. Changing your technique should be undertaken before that.

howdy doody · « **Reply #3 on:** August 21, 2003, 09:10:26 AM »

On my 58 rems I pull the pin and take cylinder out from the gate side/right side and intall the cylinder back in from the left side. I would start with the hammer down and as I eased the cylinder stop onto the bolt, gently draw back the hammer and the cylinder lines up and back in with the cylinder pin.
I do this because it is the fastest way and more importantly it does not ding up my hand which as you know if left to brad over will affect your timing. It does take some practice going slow, but you will see that things go really smooth this way. Hope I helped. Now get out and have some fun. :-)