Author Topic: Help with lead mixtures  (Read 418 times)

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Offline Quigley 45-120

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Help with lead mixtures
« on: August 10, 2003, 02:56:42 PM »
Hi guys,
 I have several thousand pounds of pure lead on hand along with several thousand pounds of wheel weight ingots and am wondering if anyone can tell me from past experiences how much wheel weight material i should add to the pure lead to harden it just enough for black powder cartridge use? Also what temperature would work with this mix for good mold fillout? I'll be shooting it in a Sharps .45-120 and Browning .40-65. Thanks for any advise. Quigley

Offline Charlie Detroit

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Help with lead mixtures
« Reply #1 on: August 12, 2003, 04:29:13 AM »
Where in blazes did you wind up with so much metal?
I posted a reply to this yesterday, but it was dead wrong, so I dumped it last night. CRS got me again.
What I  should have said, instead of the nonsense I wrote, was that plain wheelweights are about as soft as you would want to get for this type of shooting. Nothing that you can do with what you've got is going to get more Sn into the mix, and Sn is what improves castability. It hardens a little, too, but not as much as the Sb that's already in the wheelweights. Most shooters start their experimenting with Lyman #2 Alloy, with a hardness of 15. If you can get some linotype metal, equal parts of it and Pb will give you something very close to that. The reason Lyman #2 is the preferred starting alloy is that many, if not most, find that their rifles handle it best anyway. If you get much softer (say, plain wheelweights) you may find a lot of leading, which kind of spoils the experience. On the other hand, it might work fine, in which case you've got it made. I have run across one writer who says his rifle does best with a 30:1::Pb:Sn mixture, and I dare say there are others. WW or 30:1 hve a hardnes of 9. So you can see what the idea is...get the softest bullet that you can as long as it doesn't lead the bore. Accuracy is the name of the game with these guns and cartridges, and leading the bore ruins that, to say nothing of being a royal pain.
Temperature is best found by pouring a few, see how they come out...if too cool, raise the temp. If too hot, back down. The coolest temp that gives good bullets is the right one.
Incidentally, bullets made from plain WW can be hardened after casting and sizing (but NOT lubing!) using your kitchen oven. Lyman's Bullet Casting Handbook tells how to do it...hardnesses as high as near 40 can be reached.
All this is really simple stuff, but has all kinds of variables, mostly associated with the guns themselves. So the only way to get what you want is to muck around with these things until you get it...there's no hard-and-fast answer.
I ain't paranoid but every so often, I spin around real quick.--just in case
Sometimes I have a gun in my hand when I spin around.--just in case
I ain't paranoid, but sometimes I shoot when I spin around.--just in case

Offline Quigley 45-120

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Help with lead mixtures
« Reply #2 on: August 12, 2003, 11:42:10 AM »
I got all this stuff at the local scrap yard here in town the other day. I had stopped by looking for some bullet making lead for my new Sharps .45-120 and Browning .40-65. They pointed me to a wall full of 5 gallon buckets filled with disks of lead that they told me was made from wheel weights with the clips removed. The disks are about the size and shape of muffins and i assume that is the mold the person used. All the disks are clean and silver looking and you can dig your thumbnail into them if you push hard. The pure lead was in a beam about a foot and a half square and about ten feet long. Massive! Heavy! I cut it into manageable size pieces with a sharp chain saw. It is really soft and i can dig a thumbnail into it easily. They really wanted to rid themselves of this stuff and i hauled it all off for just a few cents a pound. Many, many trips hauling 1500-2000 pounds per load.
 They also had several buckets of bullets that someone had already cast and also a bunch of lead shot in cloth bags.  They said all that stuff came from an old gal whose husband died and she cleaned out the basement where he reloaded! The bullets look like maybe .45 auto or something. Will check them out in detail at a later date and maybe use them in my 1911.
  I know of a guy that i can get some tin from about 45 miles from here. He supposedly has several tons of it and i'll just have to experiment with the mixture. I do have one of the Saeco lead hardness testers that i found in a local pawn shop the other day still in the box for $10. After hearing about the lady's husband passing away, i immediately thought this gadget probably came from his estate. They didn't have a clue what it was or it would have been more expensive i think. Well, thanks for the advise, you guys are always helpful! Quigley

Offline The Shrink

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Help with lead mixtures
« Reply #3 on: August 13, 2003, 01:02:54 AM »
Quigly

Well, I guess you're set for life, at least if you're as old as me and shoot as little as I can!  I'm real low on the learning curve, but I'm shooting 30-1 with no problem.  The original Sharps mixture was 16-1 with no antimony.  With a little fiddling I'll bet you can match almost any match you want, just keep good records.  

If you don't have an ingot mold, I'd suggest getting one.  Then you can have a standard of measure when you start mixing.
Wayne the Shrink

There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!