Best load so far

[wswisconsin]

Best 45-70 load so far:

·620 gr. lead bullet (Ammo Dump, Australia) 0.443 body, 0.452 nose.
·Size in 0.446 Lyman luber/sizer to reduce nose.
·Wrap in one sheet cigarette paper up to the bottom of the now reduced nose and roll the wrapped bullet over a wet sponge.
·When dry, the paper patched bullet measures 0.449.
·Wrap a 1 3/8 inch by 7/16 inch white paper label around the base of the bullet to give it a snug fit in the cartridge.
·Trim off the extra cigarette paper off the base of the bullet.
·Begin loading the primed cartridge by placing a single 0.45 inch diameter round piece of cigarette paper inside the case.
·Add 5 grains of IMR 4759
·Add 4.5 grams (69.4 grains) of Fg Elephant black powder.
·Tap the case to settle the powder(s).
·Place two 0.3 low-density polyethylene wads over the powder.
·Place the prepared bullet in the case.
·Run the cartridge through a Lyman 45 short neck size de-capping die (with the de-capping components removed)
·Lube with 50/50 beeswax/olive oil.

When I do my part correctly, the bullet holes touch each other at 100 yards.

Rifle:  Pedersoli 45-70 Billy Dixon Sharps, vernier sight

PS. yes, the recoil is noticable

[Castaway]

I'm impressed.  Not only with the group, but with the steps you go through.   Thought I'd see and eye of newt and a bat wing or two thrown in.  What do you figure the velocity is?

[Redhawk1]

Best 45-70 load so far:

·620 gr. lead bullet (Ammo Dump, Australia) 0.443 body, 0.452 nose.
·Size in 0.446 Lyman luber/sizer to reduce nose.
·Wrap in one sheet cigarette paper up to the bottom of the now reduced nose and roll the wrapped bullet over a wet sponge.
·When dry, the paper patched bullet measures 0.449.
·Wrap a 1 3/8 inch by 7/16 inch white paper label around the base of the bullet to give it a snug fit in the cartridge.
·Trim off the extra cigarette paper off the base of the bullet.
·Begin loading the primed cartridge by placing a single 0.45 inch diameter round piece of cigarette paper inside the case.
·Add 5 grains of IMR 4759
·Add 4.5 grams (69.4 grains) of Fg Elephant black powder.
·Tap the case to settle the powder(s).
·Place two 0.3 low-density polyethylene wads over the powder.
·Place the prepared bullet in the case.
·Run the cartridge through a Lyman 45 short neck size de-capping die (with the de-capping components removed)
·Lube with 50/50 beeswax/olive oil.

When I do my part correctly, the bullet holes touch each other at 100 yards.

Rifle:  Pedersoli 45-70 Billy Dixon Sharps, vernier sight

PS. yes, the recoil is noticable

No compression, and you can fit the bullet in and it chambers in your gun?  With me using 64 gr of FFg by weight which is 60 gr. by volume, I have to compress my powder .400 to fit the .030 wad over powder a .125 grease cookie and another .030 wad over grease cookie then a 510 gr. paper patched bullet. If I do not compress the powder the bullet would be in the lands and groves by .400 and won't chamber in either of my guns. A rolling block or my Shiloh Sharps. But if it works for you, great. That sure sound like you got a great set up.

[wswisconsin]

I don't have a chronograph, so I do not know the velocity.  The rifle makes a boom not a crack, so the velocity cannot be too great, maybe 1100-1200 or so.

The rifle's bore is 0.450 and the bullets are 0.449, so they slide in the chamber with thumb pressure.  I don't compress the powder, but I do press down the poly wads with firm hand pressure.  In Paul Matthew's books, he mentioned not to compress duplex loads in order to not break the smokeless powder granules and alter their burning characteristics.

Yes, there are a lot of components to this cartridge, but when I begin eliminating one or two of them, my groups open up.  The cigarette paper over the primer seems questionable to me; I read about it in one of Paul Matthew's books and heard mention of it in a forum or two.  It doesn't seem to hurt.

I am striving to flinch less when I pull the trigger.  This cartrige doesn't help.  I ordered a recoil shield from Buffalo Arms to help me overcome my flinch.  At the range, I can see the affects of flinching when I inadvertently leave the rifle at halfcock and squeeze the trigger - I see my front sight go off target.

[Redhawk1]

I have had great success with just black powder. Goex loves compression. I just don't have the desire to try duplex loads. But if it works for you, that is good.  :grin:

[wswisconsin]

correction - 0.03 inch poly wads.

I tried straight black powder.  Works well except it leaves a lot more fouling in the barrel.  The pinch of smokeless seems to cut down the fouling to easily managed levels.

When seating the bullet in the case, there is only about a 1/4 inch of case holding the base of the bullet.

[fffffg]

i have identified many, many types of flinching in shotgunning for mastering flintlock shotgun.. this is the big bear of flinch trouble, as one has to keep leading the moving  target until the guns goes bang..  the key to stopping flinching is to identify where/when/why you are flinching to give you the way to stop it..  it is not simply  mind over matter as the mind is second guessing your actions..  to solve this you need to nullify its mind caousing factor.. im sorry im makking this complicated which i seem to be famous for.. the best way for me to describve what im talking about is how i stop flinching that occurs on the trap range.. when im jerking the trigger or not getting my timing right i load  50- 100 rounds of colt .45 ammo and go out with three 8 inch steel plates and shoot them with a 4 5/8 inch barrelled cimmeron in colt .45 calliber with 7.5 grains of unique.. i shoot the three plates down cowboy action style.. this is two handed cock fire, cock fire, etc as fast as one can shoot.. this does not have any quick draw crap assosiated with it..  after shooting 25 rounds a morning for 3-5 days,, when i get out to the club my timing is down pat and it seems like im looking down the barrel of a field howetzer.. and the clays start clumbling again..  so find out what exactly is happening, and find the  training tactic to lick it..   turning the head with a flintlock was also a big problem and that was soleved by wearing a face mask and glasses to shield the powder and rock blast to the face.  when i got a new qualtiy  gun the lock itself with a little leather overhang  blocked this blast and i dont have to worry about this problem any more..  so figure out what is causing the problem, and pracitce the fix..  simple triggle pull problems can be worked out with a wall mart bb gun ,they have a terrible trigger,, but your mind doesnt know which gun your shooting when youv shot hundreds of bbs a day for a week, when you go out on sunday its totally fooled into thinking your shooting a bb gun.. the bb gun may be a good place to start with your problem..   good luck dave..