Author Topic: Kit Builders? (Read 693 times)

HWooldridge · « **on:** August 19, 2003, 12:09:21 PM »

How many folks here have built rifles from kits and would you do it again? What problems did you have or things you would have done differently? I am about 20% of the way into a Track of the Wolf Southern Rifle percussion and "knock on maple"

, it seems to be going OK so far. I am only following the full scale drawing because nothing else in the way of instructions came with the kit. I've done some amount of blacksmithing over the past 20 years and have decided to forge my own buttplate and trigger guard but the rest seems to fit together with only minor work. Any thoughts are appreciated...Hollis

simonkenton · « **Reply #1 on:** August 19, 2003, 02:01:11 PM »

I built a Dixie Tennessee Mtn Rifle kit. I really enjoyed it. It went together well. This stock was inletted for the lock and barrel. You had to cut the curve for buttplate, do a lot of finishing work, screw breech plug into barrel, brown barrel. I added a patch box of silver, which supposedly was not traditional but I liked it.
I took my time, it took twice as long as Dixie said it would but I didn't mind. Very accurate gun, I have killed 5 or 6 deer and hogs with it. Has a curly cherry stock.
One funny thing, when I took the plain steel barrel from the box, it said "Made in Japan" on it. Those words lasted about 4 minutes. I got a file out and eradicated that crap. I didn't mind that much that it was made there but I was damned if I was going to sit in that deer stand and read "Made in Japan" every time I went hunting.
I can't recall any particular problems. They sent a good set of instructions. Bet if you looked in the Dixie catalog you could get some good instructions.
Good luck with your project. It is a proud day to see your finished rifle. It feels even better to be standing over a dead deer with that smokepole in your hand.

wallynut · « **Reply #2 on:** August 22, 2003, 12:11:39 AM »

HWooldridge,

Glad to hear there are new guys still getting into building traditional muzzleloaders. Strange to read it here since most seem to be only interested in in-lines (here at least). Here's another web site that might help with any questons you might have: http://www.americanlongrifles.com/forum/FORUM.asp?FORUM_ID=2 (sorry you can't just click on it, I'm sometimes challenged buy computers :oops: ) As for your question about the instructions, you don't really get any with the more advanced projects. Most of the guns I have built, the planning is best done by yourself due to variances in materials you may purchase. A lot of folks will substitute different parts. No matter how well you plan your rifle out (even with it laid out in instructions) there will be problems that you will need to solve, that is what "makes or breaks" you into being a gun builder. I've built around 20 rifles in the last 10 years, even have 5 on the burner right now (mostly working on just one-I keep getting interupted with other things). As for making your own triggerguard and buttplate, that is great. That makes the rifle even more enjoyable when finished. If building really does something for you, go to Friendship, IN for the fall or spring shoot (NMLRA), bring lots of money, you will find lots to buy. I can't go there without spending at least $500-600. Check out that web site and if you need any help post something and I'll do what I can to help.

HWooldridge · « **Reply #3 on:** August 22, 2003, 03:05:17 AM »

W,

I do have one question you might be able to answer. I am currently installing the doubleset triggers and am not sure where they should be in relation to the sear on the lock. I have been told a couple of different things so it might be personal preference but how do you usually install triggers?

wallynut · « **Reply #4 on:** August 22, 2003, 01:27:28 PM »

Look at your triggers from the side in the "set" position. They should be fairly flat or have a slight rise (kinda "v" shaped). I will usually aim for the middle where the two intersect. With set triggers if you get too far back or too far forward, you can have trouble when just using the trigger(s). How deep you set the trigger bar into the stock can have a big effect. Set the lock on a flat surface and compare the trigger in both set and unset for how deep and for forward/back location. One thing you will not be able to avoid when using set triggers is the takeup when using the single trigger. If you get too close then you can have a situation where you will have to set your trigger (when using them as set triggers) before you cock your lock, which can be dangerous. Worst case senerio, I've glassbeded the trigger plate if too far forward,or back. The trigger guard can hide some of those things. I personally perfer a single trigger, can usually get a really good pull weight with no take up. But I know all about the appeal of set triggers! Hope that helps. Good luck and have fun.

Bob

KING · « **Reply #5 on:** August 22, 2003, 04:26:00 PM »

:-D Wallynut. These forums go to either side depending on which way the moon is,and the wind is blowing. It all depends on what someone is interested in. Maybe tomorrow it will be a flintlock,next day a caplock. Someone will always say the good things about inlines or the bad side of em. That is what makes it fun. As for making a rifle from a kit,yup done that and it was a lot of fun. At the moment a gentleman is making a .58 cal rifle for me for round ball shooting( I am a little busy making osage longbows at present). I am also looking at that 1803 flintlock .54 that Navy Arms is comming up with. A man cant have enough toys. Stay safe.........King

clodbuster · « **Reply #6 on:** August 24, 2003, 09:26:36 AM »

Have built 2 kits- a TC Renegade in .50 caplock and .36 underhammer Hopkins and Allen. Getting sights that work for my aging eyes is the hard part. I want them to appear as period correct as possible and still let me have a chance on distant targets. I've gone to making my own primitive peep sights. Saw blade steel works well and an elevation screw through a soldered on square nut gives some adjustment while mainting a simple look. These are soldered or JB Welded on. The TC shoots a 385 Buffalo bullet into 2" groups @75 yds and the .36 is good for patched round ball into an inch at 50 yds. That's about all the distance I have needed here in the woods for deer and squirrel.

HWooldridge · « **Reply #7 on:** August 24, 2003, 11:56:28 AM »

Bob and others,

I got the rifle fully assembled last night. The trigger assembly had to be inletted almost 1/4 of an inch into the stock to engage the sear but the hammer works on both set and unset triggers. Thank the Lord I have a vertical mill - it helped a lot of things...now, I'll disassemble everything, start sanding and staining the stock then brown the barrel. Does anyone use the nitric acid and potassium permanganate stock treatment listed in the Modern Kentucky by McCrory or just stick to conventional products?

Thx for the help...Hollis

wallynut · « **Reply #8 on:** August 24, 2003, 03:05:22 PM »

I've used the nitric acid with good results, some have had problems, but using it correctly you should have no trouble. If you don't have any carving, it is a breeze, you can lightly wash it down with baking soda/water mix to halt the action of the acid. Potassium Permangnante can give a nice color, but will fade in time. Water based stains work good, but can also fade in time, but they are nice for shading in areas or getting spots to blend in. Laurel Mountain makes a really nice series of stain that can be applied over each other to achive varied colors, that way you don't have to be stuck with a certain color. I've had good success with Laurel Mountain stock finish also.

Glad to hear you got the trigger in. I've had the same thing happen when using set triggers, stock getting thinner in the wrist/lock area. There are triggers out there with taller striking surfaces, but like I said before, I'm partial to single triggers.