300 whisper

[Ruskin]

I have a 300 whisper.  I am not impressed with it.

I was wondering what chambering could be done in 30 cal which would allow me to shoot the barrel?  I know 30-30 would be one.  I have seen a 30 remington done to a whisper; however, the brass is the drawback.

I went to another website to find out max pressures the frame will handle.  He has a method to do it; however, that is accomplished by firing.  I need pressures to select the cartridge.

Any ideas?

[Lone Star]

There are a number of rechambers possible in .308" bore, but if it is a 10" barrel many of them will not be practical.  The most obvious candidate is the .30 Herrett, which gives 150-250 fps increases with 110-150-grain bullets over the Whisper.  I have a 10" barrel in each and both are moa accurate.  The .30-30 is not a good choice in a 10" tube, it won't do much better than the Whisper ballistically but recoil and blast are rough.

In 14-15" barrels the .30-30 works much better, and I have a .300 Savage that is a great performer and the .30-40 Krag is possible.  The .30-30IA and .309 JDJ are wildcats commonly used.

The Contender frame is not limited by chamber presures but rather by case head thrust.  The larger the internal cross sectional area of the case, the less pressure it can handle.  Rough guides:

.223 case.............55,000 psi
.30-30 case..........42,000 psi
.44 Magnum case..36,000 psi


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[WayneS]

You didn't say if you have  a 10" or 14" and what you want to do with it ?  Simple and least costly would be to trade for either a 30-30 or 30-H,7 TCU or 7-30 Waters, 30-H will require case forming,triming, ect. but once done you should be set.

[Dezynco]

Rather than mess up a barrel, consider selling it on the Classified section.  There are plenty of us out here that are more easily impressed with the 300 Whisper.  You can then take the money and purchase something else.  You might even arrange a trade.

[Ruskin]

It is a 15" with a muzzle brake which makes it 16.25".

I have the Hornady dies and over 100 rounds of brass. 

One thing it I have noted is that after shooting the scope mount loosened.  I redid it with lock tite.  I have had it happen on other barrels.  When I remove the mount it looks like oil has been under the mount.  Since it is SS, I don't think that is the case.  I only wipe it with a silicone cloth.  I supect the heat of the chamber drives whatever lub(?) was on the threads out under the mount which accounts for the loosening.

I don't know what I am going to do yet.

[kiddekop]

I have a 300 whisper.  I am not impressed with it.

I was wondering what chambering could be done in 30 cal which would allow me to shoot the barrel?  I know 30-30 would be one.  I have seen a 30 remington done to a whisper; however, the brass is the drawback.

I went to another website to find out max pressures the frame will handle.  He has a method to do it; however, that is accomplished by firing.  I need pressures to select the cartridge.

Any ideas?

Contact JD Jones at www.sskindustries.com I'm sure he can answer your questions.

[Lone Star]

One thing it I have noted is that after shooting the scope mount loosened.  I redid it with lock tite.  I have had it happen on other barrels.....

The problem is due to inadequate torque on the mount screws.  The .300 Whisper does not generate enough recoil or heat to loosen adequately-tightened mount screws.  I have dozens of barrels - from .223 through .45-70s - and have never had a scope mount loosen.  I make certain that the screws are not too long to bottom out in the barerl holes; this is not uncommon.  I always degrease the screws and holes, then use the largest screwdriver I can get to tighten the screws.  After I think they are as tight as I can get them, I tap the screwdriver with a hammer, then can usually get another partial turn on them.  I have never used Locktite on mount screws, although the blue stuff might help.


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[Keith L]

After the screws and holes are degreased I think sometimes the locktite acts more like a lube that sets following assembly.  I tighten then tap like Lone star until I can get no more movement for the base.  The rest of the screws I tighten, then shoot, tighten then shoot several times until they are wiggled in and tight.  I have then removed the screws one at a time then and locktited them.

Something else to look at: I often see burrs on the screw holes, and on bases.  I deburr everything so fit is tight.  I also put release on the barrel and put some bedding compound under the bases when assembling to make sure there is no movement once things set.  Take your time.  If you do it will last.