Author Topic: How many different formulas? (Read 983 times)

Rocky C · « **on:** July 31, 2003, 02:30:41 PM »

I was kind of curious about what reipe or formula different folks use in the composition of rifle and hand gun bullets. I have an abundance of WW and can get tin very cheap. I am looking for as many different recipes as I can.

Paul H · « **Reply #1 on:** July 31, 2003, 03:40:30 PM »

I cast only straight wheelweights, they are cheap, and make great bullets. I use them in very mild 357 loads, stout loads from my 480, mild loads in my 350 Rigby Magnum, and even launch them out of my 500 Jeffrey. I don't shoot competition, and don't weigh individual bullets, but the bullets are still good enough to print 2" or better groups at 100 yds, even from my 480 revovler.

The one think I've learned about casting bullets is, make it as simple as possible, there are enough variables to play with working up loads.

Some folks say that they have to add tin to make ww's fill out, but I say bunk. I cast in Aluminum, brass, steel and cast irons molds, from every maker out there, and I've yet to have a mold that won't cast good bullets from straight clean ww's. The only thing that will prevent a fillout is casting with a cold mold. Cast hot, cast fast, and be happy.

Lloyd Smale · « **Reply #2 on:** July 31, 2003, 11:56:16 PM »

I use pure for muzzle loader balls
5050 ww and pure or range scrap for .38s and low velocity .32s
ww with 3%tin for most handgun. (I agree with the other post that it isnt really neccisary but I have a bunch of it)
5050 ww lynotpye for most big boar rifle bullets and some of my linebaugh bullets and even some .44s and .45s that Im looking for real good penetration.
lynotype for high velocity small bore rifle.

Shootingamigo · « **Reply #3 on:** August 01, 2003, 07:54:37 AM »

I agree there doesnt need to be alot of variables to drive you nuts with. I use wheelweight and lino. Try one of these posts and stick with it. You didnt post what molds you are using. Lyman has 2 recipes printed for their #2 and Handgun molds for RCBS are a 10-1 lead and tin alloy. RCBS silhouette and rifle bullets are straight lino. Saeco uses a Tera Corp Magnum which is achieved with little problem a 1-1 mixture lead and lino. By the time you stock all this stuff you probably will have found something that works either here or your own and will be alot less confused.

Shootingamigo

HL · « **Reply #4 on:** August 01, 2003, 12:01:36 PM »

I use just plain ole WW metal and then heat treat to the hardness I need for a particular use. Never had an animal complain!

lewisgoldstein · « **Reply #5 on:** August 22, 2003, 08:08:21 PM »

Get your Tin from 0.5 to ~1.5 in your WWs for good casting qualities, good mold fillout.
(If you add Tin to where the amount of Tin exceeds the amount of Antimony, your bullets will soften with age!) - most flexible alloy

WWs air cooled ~9-11BHN.
If you cast really hot, and drop quickly into water ~17-20 BHN.
With a Gas Check, you have an 1800 to what ever shoots well bullet, ususlly ~2100-2200 max.
Oven heat treating can yield BHN 25-29 BHN.- Lew

1/1 Linotype to WW ~18-19 BHN
Linotype 21 BHN
With these two alloys, it is hard to cast bad bullets.
Here is where you want to start if you are casting small bore bullets.
GC these for up to 2300 fps.

As you can see from this and the other posts, most shooters just air cool or water quench, and go to shooting (except for top end 9mm and 357 mag) in pistol, and add a GC for higher velocity rifle.

You need to be more specific as to your application or problem for much more detail. - Lew

Louis Farrugia · « **Reply #6 on:** August 23, 2003, 05:44:40 AM »

Quote from: lewisgoldstein

Get your Tin from 0.5 to ~1.5 in your WWs for good casting qualities, good mold fillout.
(If you add Tin to where the amount of Tin exceeds the amount of Antimony, your bullets will soften with age!) - most flexible alloy

WWs air cooled ~9-11BHN.
If you cast really hot, and drop quickly into water ~17-20 BHN.
With a Gas Check, you have an 1800 to what ever shoots well bullet, ususlly ~2100-2200 max.
Oven heat treating can yield BHN 25-29 BHN.- Lew

1/1 Linotype to WW ~18-19 BHN
Linotype 21 BHN
With these two alloys, it is hard to cast bad bullets.
Here is where you want to start if you are casting small bore bullets.
GC these for up to 2300 fps.

As you can see from this and the other posts, most shooters just air cool or water quench, and go to shooting (except for top end 9mm and 357 mag) in pistol, and add a GC for higher velocity rifle.

You need to be more specific as to your application or problem for much more detail. - Lew

HI LEWISGOLDSTEIN

HOW DO I HEAT TREAT LEAD OR ALLOY?
IF I MIX 1/1LINOTYPE AND WW TO 18 19 BHN CAN I STILL SWAGE IN MY
WALNUT HILL PRESSOR ONLY CAST
WE USE 9mm 125g /.45ACP 200g /.38SP/357 SWC158gIN PISTOL
FOR TARGET SHOOTING .

BEST REGARDS

LOUIS FARRUGIA

lewisgoldstein · « **Reply #7 on:** August 23, 2003, 10:11:30 AM »

-HOW DO I HEAT TREAT LEAD OR ALLOY?
Go to eBay and for $3.00 get a copy of the RCBS Cast Bullet Manual.
It Has all the details, besides being a good CB primer, and CB loads.

-IF I MIX 1/1LINOTYPE AND WW TO 18 19 BHN CAN I STILL SWAGE IN MY WALNUT HILL PRESSOR ONLY CAST?
I do not do a lot of bullet swaging. Check it out with the Corbin who made your press and dies for their rating and how radically you want to modify the bullet.
Why swage? This alloy should handle anything you want to do with it.
I know of shooters who swage imperfect bullets to get good ones, or to experiment with different designs, which are a pain to cast, but for what you are doing, why swage instead of just using a good lubrisizer or tumble lube?
From another shooter who routinely swages, he says he swages all kinds of stuff, but some alloys are too brittle, and the bullets crack, especially on some of his more radical swaging bullet changes.

-WE USE 9mm 125g /.45ACP 200g /.38SP/357 SWC158gIN PISTOL
FOR TARGET SHOOTING HOW DO I HEAT TREAT LEAD OR ALLOY?
For target shooting velocities, you probably can just air cool anything with a velocity less than 1200 fps.
For a slightly harder bullet, cast the bullets hot, and quickly drop them from the mold directly into water(water quenching).
Do not let them sit in the water too long or they will corrode.
For pushing the velocity in the 9 mm or 357 mag. you may need gas checks.

IMPORTANT-
For the best shooting, target or anything, bullet fit to your pistol is much more important than the alloy!!!!!
In your autos, slug the chamber and bore. if the bullet is too small, you will get leading and bad groups!
For the revolvers, the bullet should be bigger than the leade of the cyllinder, which should be bigger than the forcing cone/bore of the barrel.
If your bullets do not fit your barrel/pistol, you will get lousy results and try all kinds of things, that will not help your group shooting or leading problem.
A GC may help some, but improper fit will drive you nuts!
This is more than just choosing a proper alloy.
People shoot all kinds of alloys, but if they have a good/proper bullet fit, it works!
Read the other varied responses on this list or any of the other CB lists.
You have no idea how many shooters cast beautiful bullets, and can not figure out why they will not shoot well.

Oldfeller is one of the masters on getting the right fit. Much more than I am. - Lew

BCB · « **Reply #8 on:** August 23, 2003, 12:29:35 PM »

Louis,

I heat treat my bullets cast of an alloy of 2-1 (ww to #2). I stand them on their base on a cookie sheet. I then place this in an oven and set the temperature to 450° Fahrenheit. I let them in the oven approximately 45 minutes and then dump them into ice water. I get a BHN of 28 to 32 depending on the antimony content of the alloy. These bullets can be shot at velocities in excess of 2200 fps with good accuracy and very minimal leading. Good-luck…BCB