I stripped the gun down to where I only had the frame, barrel, and firing pin together. All of the other parts were removed. I then brushed each rusty part with Naval Jelly to remove the rust. Brush on, wait 10 minutes, rinse in warm water, blow dry with heat gun. Took a few hours, but got the rust off of all of the parts.
Then came the tougher part. Emery clothe and elbow grease on the majority of the gun. A lot of time if you blast a gun and you are not careful you can really screw up the original pressed or rolled in writing. I used lots of emery cloth and a wooden paint stirring stick to keep all of my surfaces square. I would work an area until I had a smooth surface and no pitting. There were a few deeper spots near the writing that took a little touch-up, but most of it came out looking really good.
I finished the frame, barrel, hammer, and loading gate with KG Finishes Gun-Kote in "Brushed Stainless". I used a Birchwood Casey blue on the blue parts, and a touch-up pen on the aluminum. The cold bluing just doesn't work good for me and I am not happy with the looks of the aluminum so I ordered some Matte Black finish from KG and will use it on the grip frame, extractor, extractor housing, etc. Once you bake on this finish, it is like permanent! This is what Pac-Nor uses on their barrels and Navy Seals use on their entire gun.
Tooks lots of time, a few spare parts I had, and about $5 worth of emery paper, Naval Jelly, and Gun-Kote. Gun is now probably worth double of what I paid for it.
Steve
