refinishing a beauty...

[DennyRoark]

I am getting ready to redo a nicely stocked T/C Hawken that was put together in record time by someone else.  Nearly 100% fiddleback!  Going to use the Boiled Linseed Oil, but not sure how it will soak in after removing the old finish (not sure what kind it is but appears to be Tru-Oil).  This person didn't even whisker it, just slapped on some stain and finish and went on the mantle.    Having some concerns about the spots where a lot of wood needs to be removed vs the areas where it is pretty good.  Any thoughts on how to maintain an even color are appreciated. 

[Buckskins & Black Powder]

boiled linseed oil is a LONG on going process. Its not, just wipe on a few coats and im done. Its Wipe on 30-40+ THIN coats and rub it into the stock for 5 minutes, Set aside for 24 hours and rub in another thin coat for 10 minutes.  Your hands will hurt from all of the rubbing but its well worth it.

I'd strip the old stuff off with some quick stripper and a  plastic scraper and then sand the stock well and wet sand it for smoothness.

I'd recommend that you use tru-oil on the inside barrel channel, inside the lock area and especially under the tang.  Its nice to have those areas water proof.

With the Tru oil, just lightly dip your finger tip into  the oil and start on the area you want. Dont slap it down, just put small dots on to a small area of the stock and work in small sections.

[DennyRoark]

My main concerns are 1) will the stock soak up the BLO after I strip it and 2) it needs to have some wood removed in places and will I be able to restain it, again because of the old finish. I may have to use matte Tung oil if the BLO won't work in as I don't want the shiney finish.  I would rather not sand the wood here and there if it is going to leave it splotchy.  Just finished an upgraded stock for my dad's old Rem 788 with Tru oil.  Sealed it with marine varnish, then wet sanded 7 coats of Tru, the hand rubbed in 3 more and it turned out awesome.  But it was new wood when I started.  3 months of rubbing, I KNOW what you mean Bigblock!  Would rather err on the side of caution with this one!

[necchi]

I've run into the same problem with previously finished stocks and through experiance have found a workable solution.
 Ya wanna begin of course by stripping the old finish as deeply as possible. I've used spray on paint strippers with success, you'll need to wear rubber gloves and use a stiff brush. just follow the directions and do it twice if ya have too.
 To bring color back to the newly worked wood I use natural walnut stain, stuff I have made myself from walnut husks boiled in water. It's water based and I can change the shade by adding more water, or if I need darker I can just leave it lay on the wood like paint before I apply an oil type finish. Coffee grounds, or for darker, fresh ground coffee right out of the can. Put a 1/4 cup in a cloth, wrap it into a ball, wet the ball and duab it on.
 I guess the trick is to use water based stuff for color/stain, because you can manipulate penetration and concetration of the color itself. The water colors don't go as deeply or as perminantly as oil stains/finish. Light sanding of the area after application can/will change the shade. Usually working the repair area out into the stock further with say 100 or 120 grit sand paper is enough to "spread" the area out enough so it "becomes" part of the stock.
 I'll whisker several times with 220 and finish with 320 prior to oiling. Hope this helps give you a few ideas,
luck too ya
 

[Swampman]

Track of the Wolf carries some great stains & stock finishes.  I think straight BLO is not so good.  I used it for years.

[DennyRoark]

Stripped it this weekend and got lucky, it was never stained.  Worked wood down to where I wanted it and after the first coat of BLO (I didn't stain it either) it was an amazing dark chocolate brown!  After 5 coats, it's not showing the figure as well as I'd like, but still an awesome look.  Swampman, you siad BLO is not so good, but you used it for years.  What changed your mind?  After I get MANY coats on it, I am going to use a paste wax to give it a little shine and maybe that will help.  After only 5 days, my wifes getting tired of it hanging in the living room on one of her flower pot hooks.  Only another month or so, baby!  Wish I would have taken before and after pics .

[Swampman]

Here in FL, it never really dries & it isn't waterproof.  I finally gave up and went to low gloss tung oil.  Sometimes I mix them.

[Buckskins & Black Powder]

water beads right off BLO. The wax will add even more protection.

Just make sure you are working the oil in thin coats and rubbing it till your hands gets uncomfortably hot.

Works excellent too on ramrods.

I almost forgot, some people also add a little Mineral spirits to aid in the oil drying faster and it allows you to put the coats on quicker.

[Swampman]

Google it.....

[Buckskins & Black Powder]

you mean randy wakeman doesnt have a write up and BLO? 

[Swampman]

It's only real quality (the reason the US government used it) is that it's cheap.  I used it for years because I didn't know better.  It's not waterproof, and it's not even traditional.  Colonial gunsmiths used lots of various varnish type mixtures to finish gunstocks.  Straight BLO wasn't one of them.  I've spent several hundreds hours researching the subject.  Been to Williamsburg, and conversed with many of the best longrifle builders in the country.

Linseed Oil is a natural product best described as a yellowish oil extracted from the seeds of flax grown to make linen. Linseed oil does not dry well and does little to exclude moisture from wood.

Tung Oil is also a natural product best described as a yellow or brownish oil extracted from the seeds of the tung tree. It is also called Chinawood oil. Tung oil does not dry well either and is only slightly better at moisture exclusion than linseed oil.

Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) is a mixture of linseed oil, a carrier or solvent, and driers. It is superior to pure linseed oil in that it will more completely dry over time and is slightly more waterproof. BLO does not completely cure or dry and multiple coats dry even less well.

Boiled Tung Oil (BTO) is a mixture of tung oil, a carrier or solvent, and driers. It is superior to pure linseed oil, pure tung oil, and boiled linseed oil in that it will more likely cure or dry over time and is slightly more waterproof. The BTO finish is slightly harder and more resistant to gun oils and chemicals associated with firearms. None of these four products is really good at excluding moisture from wood.

Minwax Tung Oil Finish is an oil and varnish blend that is much more waterproof and will dry due to added driers. It can be built up into a gloss, but that is not usually done. It is best used as an in the wood finish rather than a built up on the wood finish. Minwax Tung Oil Finish resists scratches and is more resistant to gun oils and chemicals associated with firearms. The best qualities of Minwax Tung Oil Finish allow it to be wiped on and wiped off properly prepared wood leaving an in the wood finish of a look similar to BLO, but far more stable and protective. A number of coats to clean and repair scratches can be applied without building up on the surface if rubbed in carefully and then rubbed dry. Other finish products with similar sounding names may have far more varnish and behave differently in use. Some are varnishes thinned out enough with carriers and solvents so that they will penetrate into wood and not quickly build a hard film.

[Buckskins & Black Powder]

you really are just looking for ANYTHING to argue about on forums lately.

[Swampman]

I just believe in providing the facts, and let people decide for themselves.  If everyone wishes to ignore the white elephant, that's ok.  Me, I'm gonna ask why is there a white elephant in the living room?

[AtlLaw]

Swampy old saw, you stated my understanding of the qualities of the oils in question very well.  The only thing I would add is that most commercial Tung Oil Finishes don't contain much tung oil at all.

[DennyRoark]

Can other oils/finishes be applied over BLO or am I commited to it?  Reading about VLT today and it sounds interesting.  Was hoping for more lustre as well, but satisified.  Was trying to produce a more "period" finish.  BTW, I value everyones experience/opinions.  The more I options I have to choose from, the better the chance of getting the result I want.  Thanx all for the input so far.

[Swampman]

I have applied thinned Formby's Satin Tung Oil Finish over BLO.

[Buckskins & Black Powder]

i think you can use mineral spirits to remove the BLO and then use whatever finish you want.

[Longknife 76]

Ok, Here is my recipe for a WATERPROOF finish, and it ain't PC but it will work and work GOOD!!!

First, coat you dewhiskered and stained stock with Thompsons Water Seal, inside and out, real good, let it soak in and wipe it off. Let it dry and do a second coat
Second, Mix TWS with Formbys Low gloss Tung Oil 50/50 and give the stock two more coats inside and out letting it dry between coats
Third, give the stock a final coat of straight Tung oil inside and out, wipe it off, let it dry.
Fourth, give the out side finish as many hand rubbed coats of straight Tung oil as you care to apply.

You will have a completely water proof and original LOOKING finish,,,, who is gonna know?...Ed

[Swampman]

Thompson's Water Seal has silicone in it.