Trapdoor Springfield question

[The Shrink]

Gentlemen

I just bought a remanufactured cleaning rod for an original 1884 Trapdoor that belongs to the brother of a friend of mine.  Dixie nicely explained that it was 'unthreaded", as it indeed is.  Do I assume from this that it is supposed to thread into a thimble in the stock as does the one on my Rolling Block?  

If so, and if Dixie does not thread them, do I assume correctly that these are non-standard threads?  How difficult is it to determine the thread pattern and cut it on the cleaning rod?  

Finally, since this is going back to Chicago in a couple of weeks, is there someone in Chicago who can do this and brown it to match the gun?

Yes, I really am a psychologist, and don't know machine work worth beans!  Worse yet, the owner is an international banker who isn't even a gun nut like me.

[John Traveler]

Hi there, Shrink!

Oh, don't worry.  I'll still correspond with you, even if you really ARE a psychologist!  All of my kids are social science majors.  I still talk to them!

As for your question on the Trapdoor Springfield, I don't believe that your cleaning rod is, or rather, should be, "threaded".  Those grooves on the bottom end (end closest to the lock when stowed in it groove under stock) are "grasping grooves", and look like coarse threads.  They allow your fingers more purchase when using the rod.

Yes, they are easy to duplicate on a lathe by anyone that can  do a simple lathe threading operation.  Any machine shop or gunsmith can do it, but FIRST you have to provide the thread pitch!

"Browning" (rust bluing) the rod is a it trickier.  It requires a gunsmith set up to do the rust bluing.  Or you can settle for any of the cold bluing solutions, but they lack authenticity.

HTH
John

[John Traveler]

Oh, Yeah, Shrink.

I forgot to add:  NO, the cleaning rod should not screw into the stowage position by the threads.  The rod retaining method is not like that on the Remington Rolling Block rifles.

The step on the "tulip head" end engages on a step on the stock end cap.  The springiness of the cleaning rod holds it in place.

What do you mean when you said the rod was "refurbished" Dixie Gun Works?  Was it polished to remove the rust?  A new head brazed on?

I've seen new reproduction cleaning rods, and they look just like the old ones except for hot tank bluing.  The rod itself would be simple to duplicate from standard rod stock if it wasn't for the swelled up part.  That means the entire rod has to be turned or more likely, GROUND to shape.

John

[The Shrink]

John

I shouldn't have said "refurbished" but rather "new manufacture".  It's one of their new made pieces, in the white.  This rifle has no blue left, it's all rust brown but tight and shoots well.  That's why I thought a rust brown treatment would be more appropritate for this rifle.

[John Traveler]

oh, okay.

If you want an antique-looking rust BROWN finish, you can do it fairly easily using Birchwood-Casey Browing Solution.

It comes in the 3-4 oz small plastic bottle, like their B-C Instant Cold Bluing Solution, and is easy to apply.  Degrease the metal, heat to sizzling, and swab on the Browning Solution.  It will really come out Antique Brown, and is surprisingling uniform and durable, unlike most Cold Bluing solutions.

I have found that using a polishing wheel and the finest red rouge, you can make the metal look wonderfully antiqued by lightly buffing the browned surfaces and then oiling or waxing to make it durable.

Have fun!

John

[The Shrink]

John

That's the wayI would do it, but it's going back to Chicago in two weeks, and I don't have time.  that's why I'm looking for a gunsmith in Chicago who is competent and knowlegable about these things to refer Eric to.  He's not only not terrably handy,  he's getting married next mongh and won't have the time or the interest right a way. I thought I'd make it easy for him.