Husqvarna Underlever Double Question

[gjn]

I recently acquired a Husqvarna underlever SxS hammer gun in 16 gauge and 50-70. Anyone have any information on these guns and the relative strength? Can I use factory 16 gauge ammo? Is the 50-70 the same as what used in the Sharps,etc? The barrels are blued and the overall condition is quite good. Any information would be appreciated.

[dougk]

Your best bet would be to take the gun to a gunsmith and have them go over the gun and provide you guidance.
Doug

[Drilling Man]

Your best bet would be to take the gun to a gunsmith and have them go over the gun and provide you guidance.
Doug

  I agree...

  DM

[Win 88]

I recently acquired a Husqvarna underlever SxS hammer gun in 16 gauge and 50-70. Anyone have any information on these guns and the relative strength? Can I use factory 16 gauge ammo? Is the 50-70 the same as what used in the Sharps,etc? The barrels are blued and the overall condition is quite good. Any information would be appreciated.

It seems that you have got a mod. 17B. It is a really strong action, but you must not use longer shotgun cartridges that 2½". If the shotgun barrel isn't of damascus steel, usual smokeless cartridges can be fired without any danger. This type of shotgun has been rather common here in Sweden, and you still meet hunters shooting them. They stand hard use without problems and even hard abuse. I have had one myself, and it was a nice little shotgun. It delivered the best patterns with fibre wad loads - plastic cups pattern so tightly, that they can only be used for turkeys half a mile away. ;-)
Some facts about the gun can be found i the first link below.

The rifle cartridge is similar to the .50-70, but the correct name of it is "12 mm Swedish Remington" or the 12,17x44R. In the second link there are some advice for reloading it. I suppose that Huntington's would have brass and dies.

BTW, the first miltary guns in the caliber were american Remington Rolling Blocks, which were issued in the Royal Army of Sweden as Gevär mod/67. Initially it was a rimfire cartridge, but it was soon adapted to centerfire, as were the guns.

http://www.skydevaaben.com/allhvamodels/info.xml
http://www.svartkrutt.net/articles/vis.php?id=3
http://www.oldkongsbergarms.com/Engelsk/Gun%20details/Guns/M1867_rolling_block.htm

Pete

Edit: Reloadersnest.com has data: http://www.reloadersnest.com/query_all.asp?CaliberID=203

[Sir Charles deMoutonBlack]

I have two Swedish rollers in 12.7 X44R.  I use Starline .50-70 brass and Lyman dies.  The cases need to have the rims narrowed in diameter to fit the chamber, and I shorten them about 20 thou'.  The cases can be just sized enough to fit, but no more.  The bullet is Lyman 515139  (350 grain.) unsized.

When I got my m17 like yours, I found the chambers even tighter.  I could not size the .50-70 cases enough, and had to resort to cases made from .348 Winchester as they are slightly narrower just in front of the rim.  I also had to size the bullets to .512.  Even then the overall loaded length of the ammo was shorter than for the rolling blocks. I have only used GOEX FFg or Pyrodex.

I have some 16 gauge brass Magtechs, and some BRI plastic cases.  I cut the plastic cases to 67mm and can roll crimp them or use my MEC press to make a 'jam-roll".  That is, use the regular crimp stations of the press to crease and then fold the case mouth down over the overshot card to make an open star crimp.