Author Topic: Aluma Hyde II  (Read 594 times)

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Offline Preacherman

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Aluma Hyde II
« on: April 10, 2009, 06:02:15 AM »
Any one ever use Brownells Aluma Hyde II? I have a Sig 220 Euro Police pistol that has a lot of wear on the slide.I would like to redo it butI don't what to use.
Another question:If you use a bake on finish does the internal parts need taken out.Firing pin springs etc.
I don't want to reblue maybe OD green or tan.This is my wifes range gun won't be carried much.
THANKS
Preacherman
Acts10:13

Offline Antietamgw

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Re: Aluma Hyde II
« Reply #1 on: April 10, 2009, 05:47:50 PM »
Just saw a post on Mauser Central where a guy was complaining about it. Said he used good metal prep and after 2 weeks in a controlled temp room, finish is chipping off. He didn't go into the specifics of his metal prep and I have no experience with it. The guys seem to be doing real good work with inexpensive air brushes and Dura Coat type products. I don't know how you could properly degrease without stripping the gun and it would seem to me that this would be a problem with any spray on product.  For nasty stuff I use kero and blow it out with air, then brake clean and polish, beatblast as usual prior to blueing or parkerizing. 
Keep your plow share and your sword - know how and when to use them.

Offline EVOC ONE

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Re: Aluma Hyde II
« Reply #2 on: April 13, 2009, 12:13:11 AM »
I've used Aluma Hyde II several times with very good results.  As with any re-finishing, preparation is the key to success. 

Prepare a clean area to use before beginning with the part. 

I like to scrub the part(s) to be refinished with Dawn Oxy dish soap and a brush under hot spigot water.  Using rubber scouring gloves helps insulate you from the water.  My process is to do a thorough scouring three times for several minutes each time.  Place the part on clean papertowels and dry what water is left.  Much of it will have already evaporated.  Do not handle the part with bare hands. At the work area I use a hand-held hair dryer to blow any remaining water from nooks and crannies.  I also use the hair dryer to heat the metal.  I've had good results doing this with any part a re-blue or spray.

Aluma Hyde goes on thick, so be careful using it in area's where tolerances are slim.  Read the instructions for proper set up.  IIRC, it dry's to the touch in about 30 minutes but takes a full week to fully cure.

I have no experiance using baked on finishes.

Good Luck.