Author Topic: Sthil 110 auto oiler not working  (Read 831 times)

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Offline Rex in OTZ

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Sthil 110 auto oiler not working
« on: May 07, 2009, 08:42:27 AM »
I picked up a sthil at a yard sale, it was obviousely a fix-er-uper I had to buy a new bar & chain, it got hot and I found out the auto oiler wasent working, I removed the bar and the plate covering the auto oiler and it has a funky diaphram pulsor oiler I looked it over and it looked good but mabe ther's a pin hole?  Any body now there way around one these pulsor oilers? I orderd on-line a oiler new diaphram but am unshure what the other parts in the bag are to go? as I dident see them as I was dissasembling it.

Offline Glanceblamm

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Re: Sthil 110 auto oiler not working
« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2009, 04:34:45 AM »
Rex, My hom...my homel..my homelight chainsaw has a small tube very close to the top of the oil fill tank with the instructions being not to cover the tube during the oil fill as it provides positive pressure on the tank.
This is probably a primitive setup as compared to you Sthil. I suspect that your oiler is plugged with sawdust as a lot of people wont take the time to wipe the caps n surfaces around the fuel & oil tank when in need of refill. Shouldnt be too bad of a job to flush and empty that tank with fuel or such along with installing the new parts that you do have.

Offline Rex in OTZ

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Re: Sthil 110 auto oiler not working
« Reply #2 on: May 18, 2009, 07:23:03 AM »
Thanks for the tip I'll try and get a look in there! never had one these torn down before so its all new to me!

My dad still has a Homelite XL from the mid 70's that's still kicking, He did buy a Poulan (disremember the #) in the mid 80's and still uses both to cut fallen limbs off the white ash and scrub oak in the creek draws's for fire wood.

Offline ShadowMover

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Re: Sthil 110 auto oiler not working
« Reply #3 on: May 18, 2009, 08:11:39 AM »
The oilers are very sensitive to small bits of saw dust getting into the one way valves that feed the oiler.  My old Poulon Micro XXV had a very similar problem.  The oiler on it works from the positive and negative pressure pulses in the crankcase. This sucks oil through a filter in the oil tank through a one way valve diaphragm assembly and then on to the oiler where it goes through another one way valve. The one way valves are a steel ball with a very light spring and a very small hole. Mine was pressed together and was plugged solid with something. I'm guessing it was sawdust as there was always plenty of it around. Of course there are no parts available. I tried to clean it with solvent, a thin wire and some air pressure, but never did get it to work. I got mine fixed by rebuilding the one way valve. The spring and ball were still good. I carefully cut the plastic body apart and spliced it together with some brass tubing from a hobby shop. It comes in a wide variety of sizes and one just fit inside the valve body. The plastic tubing in the oil tank was very brittle and cracked too, so it was replaced too. It can be done, if you are willing to tinker with it.  If time and reliability are important, then get a new saw, and keep that bar oil clean. It's real easy to get a chunk of sawdust in there when refilling the oil.


Offline Rex in OTZ

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Re: Sthil 110 auto oiler not working
« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2009, 10:12:04 AM »
Thanks for the input! I'd probibly found the check valve eventually but it shure is nice understanding how they work in princeipal so a fella can trouble shoot, after all how can you fix somthing if ya dont know where to start?
Here is some neat tid bits I think may apply here,On different site's/forums I found a couple different tricks for blocked passeges dunking in denture cleaner (from snowmoble world forums in reference to old carburators) useing a ultra sonic cleaner mentioned on one the old engine restoration sites- this method is great for cleaning gunk outta breech bolts from .22's and shotguns, Have one at work, we get to use it as long as we use our own cleaner/solvent and clean it spotless when finished.