Author Topic: Powder choice for .357 Mag (Read 1626 times)

JustaShooter · « **on:** June 07, 2009, 08:51:06 AM »

I've just started hand loading .357 Mag, and would like to get some suggestions on a powder to start with. I'll mostly be loading 158GR SWC target loads and 125GR JHP for all-round use.

I've got several powders that are mentioned on the reloading guides I have, but don't know where to start. I have (lots of) Bullseye, Unique, Blue Dot, H110, Win 296, IMR 700X, AA #2, #5, #7, #9

Thanks for any guidance,

Just a Shooter

lakota · « **Reply #1 on:** June 07, 2009, 12:09:28 PM »

Not familiar with all the powders on your list but Bullseye will make great target/plinking loads and H110 will make great full house Magnum loads with lots of flames.

RaySendero · « **Reply #2 on:** June 07, 2009, 01:04:36 PM »

Quote from: lakota on June 07, 2009, 12:09:28 PM

Not familiar with all the powders on your list but Bullseye will make great target/plinking loads and H110 will make great full house Magnum loads with lots of flames.

I've used both Unique and Herco - Kinda as a powder in between Bullseye and H110.

Both worked - Herco was the cleaner of the two.

Bill In SC · « **Reply #3 on:** June 07, 2009, 01:24:15 PM »

All of the powders you have listed can be used to load the .357 Magnum.

For the last 20 years or so, my standard for the 125 grain pill has been H110.

For the lead 158 grain plinker/target loads, I have used both Blue Dot and H110.

Keeps your speeds down on the cast, unless you like scrubbing lead out of the barrel.

A great source of load data using the powders you mentioned can be found in the Lyman Reloading Handbook. #49 is the most current.

Bill

mjbgalt · « **Reply #4 on:** June 07, 2009, 01:41:12 PM »

i use 2400, cheaper than most and goes a loooong way.

-Matt

Siskiyou · « **Reply #5 on:** June 07, 2009, 02:10:23 PM »

I load a lot of .38 Special cases for my .357 with different lead and Jacketed bullets. I load +P loads in +P cases, and +P+ loads in +P+ cases. I do not exceed recommend 38 Special loads in cases head stamped 38 Special. I load with Bullseye, WW231, AL-7, AL-8, Unique, X700, and X800.

When I load 357 cases I use 2400 powder.

When I was on the job I fired a lot of 110-grain and 125-grain Winchester factory ammunition. I rather suspect the powder used was 296. The muzzle flash from these loads could be seen during the day. At a night shoot the muzzle flash would light up the range and the trick was to retain some night vision. The ammunition was more accurate than some of the shooters. I never loaded 296 because I was given an adequate supply of powder by a reloader who quit loading for his 357, and his shotgun.

I started out loading 2400 and the Alcan (AL) powders years ago. Alcan was a favorite, but was discontinued. I think it was a Swedish powder.

JustaShooter · « **Reply #6 on:** June 07, 2009, 03:53:54 PM »

Thanks for all the advice. Sounds like Bullseye will be the way to go for the target loads, still have to decide about the full-house loads. Can you get full house loads without a lot of muzzle flash, or is that just the nature of the beast, as it were? Sorry if I sound like a noob, I've been hand loading for many years for about a half-dozen calibers, but this is my first magnum handgun cartridge.

Bill, I knew those powders could be used in the .357, I did my initial research to see what powders I had that could be used before I posted. I've got Lyman #48, among others, and will be using them when it comes time to work up the loads. When I found out I had 10 different powders that would work, I just wanted to get advice from those who've been there about the powder to start with.

As to keeping the speed down with the cast bullets, how low should I keep them?

Siskiyou, +1 on keeping the loads matched to the cases in the .38s. I already do that so there is less chance of mixups.

Unless it was recommended by a lot of people, I was planning on staying away from 296 because of some of what I've read - make sure to use heavy crimps, be sure to use magnum primers, don't reduce loads, and so on. Unless there is a good reason to use it, I'm thinking I'll save it for something else... :-)

Just a Shooter

dpe.ahoy · « **Reply #7 on:** June 07, 2009, 05:12:34 PM »

H-110 and W 296 are just different lots of the same powder that you have setting there already. If you buy new stuff, it may even be the same lot, since Hodgdon now has Winchester powders. Same caution applies to H-110 as 296. Another good powder is Hodgdon LilGun. I have pretty well started using this only for 357 mag loads. All 3 powders buck, snort and have heavy concussion. Any powder producing that kind of pressure will have some of that, as you stated "nature of the beast". DP

lakota · « **Reply #8 on:** June 07, 2009, 06:02:59 PM »

What I like about the .357 Magnum is the fact that it can go from pop gun to fire snorting dragon with a simple powder change

Couger · « **Reply #9 on:** June 07, 2009, 07:32:31 PM »

I prefer ball powders to flake powders wouldn't overlook WW231 for a .357 target propellant.

If I was loading medium weight bullets or loads and wanted to use the same powders for reloading handguns that I use for reloading field-load shotshells, I'd possibly choose HS-6, LongShot or even AA5 if data for that powder is available. I would consider other ball powders not listed similar to those too - and Unique if I had to use that.

For heaviest loads I start with H110, then look at AA9, WW296 and 2400. BlueDot always gets good comments but its so damm dirty!

My idea of a cast target bullet is a lead semi wadcutter, versus a full WC. That's why I like the data on the HS6 and LongShot.

buck460XVR · « **Reply #10 on:** June 08, 2009, 07:36:28 AM »

for plinkin' I use Unique and for huntin' I use H110/W296 or Lil' Gun.

Tom W. · « **Reply #11 on:** June 08, 2009, 08:23:34 AM »

Quote from: Couger on June 07, 2009, 07:32:31 PM

BlueDot always gets good comments but its so damm dirty!

Don't you clean your revolver after you shoot it? Surely it doesn't get so dirty that it won't function.

JustaShooter · « **Reply #12 on:** June 08, 2009, 02:02:20 PM »

Quote from: dpe.ahoy on June 07, 2009, 05:12:34 PM

H-110 and W 296 are just different lots of the same powder that you have setting there already. If you buy new stuff, it may even be the same lot, since Hodgdon now has Winchester powders. Same caution applies to H-110 as 296. Another good powder is Hodgdon LilGun. I have pretty well started using this only for 357 mag loads. All 3 powders buck, snort and have heavy concussion. Any powder producing that kind of pressure will have some of that, as you stated "nature of the beast". DP

Thanks DP, I never caught onto that H110 and W296 were the same - odd that I never saw the warnings applied to H110 so thanks again.

If full-house loads are buck-snortin' fire-breathin' beasts by their nature then who am I to try to tame them, eh? I'll just have to hold on for the ride, that's all!

So, back on the H110/W296, how much crimp is a heavy crimp, and how do you know if you've got it right (or, wrong for that matter)?

Just a Shooter

Couger · « **Reply #13 on:** June 08, 2009, 02:23:55 PM »

Quote from: Tom W. on June 08, 2009, 08:23:34 AM

Don't you clean your revolver after you shoot it? Surely it doesn't get so dirty that it won't function.

Because it is so dirty - and a flake powder - I never use it!

gypsyman · « **Reply #14 on:** June 08, 2009, 02:41:08 PM »

Justashooter, this is how I adjust for crimp. I seat the bullet on all my rounds, as I like to crimp only. I'll adjust the die down till it starts to crimp. Slowly, about 1/8 to 1/16 of a turn, I'll keep running the round in and out of the die, till I get a small shiney ring just around the top of the brass. Then I'll back it off that last little bit of adjustment. Please remember, all my brass has been segragated and trimmed to the same lenght. If you haven't done that, your crimp will vary quite a bit. And your accuracy will suffer. gypsyman

JustaShooter · « **Reply #15 on:** June 08, 2009, 04:12:40 PM »

gypsyman, I've been loading for the .38spl so I'm familiar with making sure the trim length is consistent and adjusting the crimp. What I don't know is how to make sure that I have a "heavy crimp" that is enough for the H110/W296 powders. I figure if there are warnings to use a "heavy crimp" that I better know what that means, and how to tell if I've got it right.

Just a Shooter

Default · « **Reply #16 on:** June 09, 2009, 05:39:43 AM »

Looks like there is alot of good intel on this one already but figured I would mention IMR 4227 .. Had great results out of a H&R single shot with a 140gr honady XTP flat , fast ( high 1900s and accurate as hell)

Default

Couger · « **Reply #17 on:** June 09, 2009, 07:48:21 AM »

Quote from: Couger on June 08, 2009, 02:23:55 PM

Quote from: Tom W. on June 08, 2009, 08:23:34 AM
Don't you clean your revolver after you shoot it? Surely it doesn't get so dirty that it won't function.
Because it is so dirty - and a flake powder - I never use it!

Whether for a handgun or a rifle, if I was going to choose a powder for heavy or all-around .357Mag loads, I'd start with H110 and a medium to heavy crimp!

I'd them consider 2400 and maybe give in and try Blue Dot.

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #18 on:** June 09, 2009, 08:56:47 AM »

The best way i have found to get a good heavy crimp is with a Redding profile crimp die . You need a good crimp to hold the bullets in the brass under recoil and to keep them from moving at all so shot to shot accy won't be affected .
I tried a Lee die and liked the Redding alot better .
What i do is seat the bullet to where the case mouth is almost even with the top of the crimp ring on the bullet . Then run them thru the crimp die . The profile die will leave a nice crimp that will fill into the crimp ring . You can shoot a few and check to see if the other rounds in the gun show signs of moving . If they do add a little more crimp . You can also fine tune accy. sometimes in stright wall cases by changing your crimp pressure .

paul105 · « **Reply #19 on:** June 09, 2009, 10:56:31 AM »

I read that AA#9 will work for low(er) flash full power loads. I have not personally tried it. As you already have some, it might be worth a try.

Paul

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #20 on:** June 09, 2009, 11:02:06 AM »

I like H110 and Winchester . Most Winchester powder is clean burning . H110 shoots nice . At one time i got what ever was cheap but that got old so i settled on H110 and Win.
In todays market i might have to use what i can get !

Autorim · « **Reply #21 on:** June 10, 2009, 04:27:16 PM »

Trail Boss or W231 for light loads, Unique or 2400 for medium and 2400 or W296 for full power. They all work just fine for me. Once I started using Trail Boss I really liked it.

For just fun and simple shooting I load TB in .38,.357, .41mag, .44 mag, .45AR and .45 Colt.

41 mag · « **Reply #22 on:** June 12, 2009, 12:34:35 PM »

I don't do much plinking. Most of my loads are the same for target as for hunting. I cut powders back a few years ago to only a couple now and for most of my wheel guns I shoot 296. For the .357 in all weights except for the 110's and 125's I shoot decent doses of it as well. My standard load, for lack of a better term, is 16 grs of 296, Win or Starline cases, Win-WSP primers, with either the Oregon Trail 158gr RNFP, or the Remington 158gr in either the SJHP or SP.

It is a modest load which will make a good hole in a BG, a hog or deer. Not much muzzle blast to speak of, and very accurate from either of my Ruger GP-100's.