Author Topic: Flintlock ? (Read 1259 times)

bowfish · « **on:** September 03, 2003, 08:51:50 AM »

Hello was haveing some ignition problems with my lyman deerstalker tried alot of everyones sug. still haveing slow ign. Iam useing 3f for my main charge and in the pan about 2/3 full I wipe off the face of the frizzen always use the touch hole pick was wondering if I should use 2f for main charge and 4f for the pan also have a dura flint on the wayfor the gun was wondering about another type of flash hole liner My local gun smith said the hole was to high above the pan so he removed some wood on the stock and got it lower but now the barrel wedge pin will fall out not for sure what to do about that either I know the problem is with me because I know very little about flintlocks and can not find anyone at all in my area that shoots one to get some help but I will not give up on the gun :oops: And the only real B/P I can find in my area is elephant and have herd that is not the best to use.......

PA-Joe · « **Reply #1 on:** September 03, 2003, 10:36:46 AM »

Two things - You can bend the wedge pin in the middle and it should hold better. You can remove the flashhole liner and cone it on the outside with a No. 2 KEO Combination drill. Leave 1/2 the srew slot so you can remove it. Most good hardware stores have the combination drill if not Graingers has them for about $3.00. Before you remove the liner. Look at it through the barrel to see if it is too long and entending into the break plug. I had to remove two threads, that will help place the powder closer to the hole.

1860 · « **Reply #2 on:** September 03, 2003, 12:11:54 PM »

Sounds like you need a new/different smith. The touch hole should be split by the imaginary line of the pan, and somewhat centered. As well as coneing the outside of the liner, do the inside as well, just don't make the hole too big. 3f as a charge and 4f in the pan is about as quick as it gets.

1860

wallynut · « **Reply #3 on:** September 03, 2003, 03:23:44 PM »

You also don't want to use that much powder (each rifle is different) for priming, I usually use less. Also, don't dump the primer powder right at the touch hole, middle of pan is better. See how large your touch hole is, a 1/16th (.0625 inch) should work, I wouldn't open it too much more, I've done it before on stubborn rifles where nothing else works. As was stated, a little countersinking of the touch hole will help guide the flash into the barrel.

Try different flints, I know they can be hard to find. My source has moved and I lost contact with him. Will have to get more the next time I go to Freindship, In. Experiment how you place the flint in the jaws, some locks like the edge sitting higher, so turn the flint.

As for the the loose barrel, that sure won't help with accuracy. Take the barrel out, protect from getting scratched with rags, place on a hard surface (such as a work table), and then tap the lug down. Check often to see how well the key fits in now. If you tap down too far, just file a little till the key fits snug. You can put a slight bend in the key, but that can just cause other problems if your not careful when putting it in.

crow_feather · « **Reply #4 on:** September 04, 2003, 03:43:33 PM »

If it is slow ignition, plug your vent hole with a pipe cleaner, feather, etc until ready to fire. Powder in the vent channel causes a fuse effect and will slow the ignition time - if the vent hole is cupped, that will also help solve the problem.

I always thought it looked cool with a crow-feather sticking out the lock of my lyman trade rifle - don't really know why.

C F

bowfish · « **Reply #5 on:** September 04, 2003, 06:31:53 PM »

Thanks for all the great inf. and a big thanks to Bob in Fla. for all the info but before I tried any of these ideas someone said I should contact lyman and tell them what was going on and they told me to ship the gun backthey have had a few problemes with the deerstalker in flintlock. Thanks agian bowfish

Norwester · « **Reply #6 on:** September 04, 2003, 08:58:21 PM »

bowfish,if they send it back to you and the wedge pin still doesn't fit right you can adjust the bbl lug,not the pin. When I got my GPR the front wedge had no tension at all and would fall out.I called Lyman immediatly ready to storm at whoever answered,but got a recording they weren't in until monday,(this was thursday). I was real POed for about 8 hrs until I read page 21 of the manual"Adjusting Wedge Pins". :oops: Glad nobody was home at Lyman!
:lol:
Jeff

River runner · « **Reply #7 on:** September 20, 2003, 06:01:14 PM »

Bowfish, for better ignition, use that feather in the flash hole while you pour in the powder and seat the projectile, I use a pan charger, and set the 4F as far away from the flash hole as possible while still keeping it in the pan, my liner is tapered both inside and out, and the ignition is nearly as fast as a percussion, each gun is a little different so ya might want to experiment, after all that's the most fun anyway. Also to bring the barrel back up, to where it was before the "gunsmith" lowered it just place several layers of duct tape in the barrel channel, until you get a snug fit again, might even accuraglass it. RR

Black Jaque Janaviac · « **Reply #8 on:** September 22, 2003, 07:04:42 AM »

Bowfish,

Exactly what is the problem?

If the lock goes clatch but the pan powder doesn't ignite - then you've got a problem with the lock.

If the pan-charge goes "poof" but the main charge doesn't do anything - then there's a touch-hole problem.

If you get ignition but it's slow - like "Shhhhh-BANG!" then your touch hole might be too low and/or buried by the pan charge.

To fix lock problems - check the lock without any powder. There should be lots of WHITE sparks. And the sparks should mostly land in the pan - not fly everywhere but.

If the sparks are yellow or orange - you might need to fix the frizzen. Harden it with kasenit. Careful not to make the pan cover and pivot part too brittle.

If the sparks fly all over you may have geometry problems. Try flipping the flint over the other way. Try using a shorter or longer flint.

If there aren't many sparks try sharpening the flint or hardening the frizzen.

If you're getting the pan to flash but the main charge doesn't go off then try these:

Try a different brand of powder. Some Elephant fouls a lot, some is excellent. If it's one that produces a lot of fouling the fouling can clog the touch hole. If this is the case you'll notice more misfires as the gun gets more fouling build up, the first one or two shots may never misfire.
Try rapping the gun before running the ball down. Sometimes the powder will bridge at the touch-hole liner and is too far away from the pan. You should be able to see the powder through the touch hole.
Cone out the inside of the liner.
Cone out the outside of the liner.
Open the touch hole up with a 1/16" drill bit.
Try putting on a Jim Chamber's White Lightning Liner. Those work fantastic.

bowfish · « **Reply #9 on:** September 22, 2003, 07:03:31 PM »

Lyman called me today and said they just shipped out a brand new gun the one I sent back had enough problems that they just replaced it .Was wondering where can a guy get on of those liners you recommened.Also the guy at lyman told me to stop useing a denatured alcohol patch on the frizzen and down the barrel he also said to leave the vent pick in and not to let any powder in the liner.

Winter Hawk · « **Reply #10 on:** September 23, 2003, 03:14:02 PM »

Was wondering where can a guy get on of those liners you recommened

Track of the Wolf has them on P. 406 of their catalog. Or get them from Chambers himself: http://www.flintlocks.com/parts.htm

-Kees-

Black Jaque Janaviac · « **Reply #11 on:** September 24, 2003, 09:26:57 AM »

Quote

Also the guy at lyman told me to stop useing a denatured alcohol patch on the frizzen and down the barrel he also said to leave the vent pick in and not to let any powder in the liner.

That's some peculiar advice. Did he explain why no denatured alcohol? Only reason I kin think of is 'cuz you can drink it ifn' ya gets thirsty. :grin:

Also, not letting any powder in the liner - hmm. I have a .32 Pedersoli that misfires. I have been able to "predict" the misfires by looking into the touch hole. If I don't see any powder (forgot to tamp it) it almost always misfires.

The Pedersoli, like your Lyman, have a patent breech. Which means there's a shoulder at the breech and the powder normally falls into the small cavity that extend about 1 inch behind the shoulder and is directly opposite the flash channel. I suspect that without the tamping the powder can bridge on that shoulder. That puts the charge a good inch away from the flash hole. Of course it won't light.

River runner · « **Reply #12 on:** September 25, 2003, 04:04:48 PM »

BJJ, what kind of accuracy are you getting from your Pedersoli .32? I've got one and it's very sensitive to powder charges, but when I use one it likes, it'll shoot raggedy holes out to 40 yards from a rest. RR :-)

Black Jaque Janaviac · « **Reply #13 on:** September 26, 2003, 01:05:34 PM »

River Runner,

Funny you should mention that. My .32 was always pretty happy with most loads you could put down it - but it wasn't really impressive. Less than an inch at 25 yards and less than 1 1/2 inch at 50 yards.

I happily plastered squirrels with this gun for several seasons. Then I suddenly started missing real "gimmes". Like squirrels at 15 feet!

I couldn't figure out what happened!

Then I noticed the crown had eroded.

The ramrod for this gun has to be 5/16" (1/4" rods won't stay in the channel). Well 5/16 inches is the same as 0.3125 inches - really close fit to the bore. You can't fit a muzzle guard 'tween the rod and muzzle.

All the sand and dirt that rides on the ramrod served to wear away at the crown.

Pedersoli wanted over $200 for a replacement barrel :eek: I checked with Track of The Wolf and they want a little more than that for a Green Mt. .36 barrel fit to my gun. I'd go with a .36 to cure the ramrod fit problem.

I took the barrel in the garage, clamped it in a vise muzzle up, and filed. And filed, and filed, and filed. Until I could see the edges of the rifling again. There is now no taper to the crown whatsoever.

1" groups at 40 yards! :grin: :grin:

Incidentally I've done this filing trick on two other Italian guns. One a Lyman Plains Pistol - I'm looking at a 1st Place plaque I got with it.

I wouldn't recommend filing the muzzle unless you can actually see a problem with the crown.